Weighting centerboard of a 26X...
- Gazmn
- Admiral
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 10:22 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bayside, NY '97X, E-tec 115 Pontoon, The "Ollie Gray" & '01 Chevy Tahoe W/ Tow Pkg; AL 2X Trlr.
Weighting centerboard of a 26X...
Hi All,
I purchased a new centerboard and rudders from IdaSailor when I became the second owner of my X. The old rudders were in bad shape. [I'll eventually get around to reglassing them.] I bought the centerboard just thinking it had to be as bad as the rudders. It turned out to be in decent shape. While I've since installed all of the above new items. I'm toying with the idea of weighting the old CB...
Reason being slight delay I get when lowering CB and building in some low center ballast while powering with empty ballast tank. I have the rope system for my CB.
Questions:
1. What would be a good CB weight that won't stress mounting bracket, Yet still be effective?
2. I was considering using waterplugging cement as a filler vs. melting lead - as this I think is quite toxic.
3. If cement is a bad idea, where can I get an appropriate "filler"?
Thanks,
-Gaz
I purchased a new centerboard and rudders from IdaSailor when I became the second owner of my X. The old rudders were in bad shape. [I'll eventually get around to reglassing them.] I bought the centerboard just thinking it had to be as bad as the rudders. It turned out to be in decent shape. While I've since installed all of the above new items. I'm toying with the idea of weighting the old CB...
Reason being slight delay I get when lowering CB and building in some low center ballast while powering with empty ballast tank. I have the rope system for my CB.
Questions:
1. What would be a good CB weight that won't stress mounting bracket, Yet still be effective?
2. I was considering using waterplugging cement as a filler vs. melting lead - as this I think is quite toxic.
3. If cement is a bad idea, where can I get an appropriate "filler"?
Thanks,
-Gaz
- baldbaby2000
- Admiral
- Posts: 1382
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 8:41 am
- Location: Rapid City, SD, 2005 26M, 40hp Tohatsu
- Contact:
Try these links:
138 Pound Centerboard
Lead-filled centerboard
It appears that mod isn't on Erik's website anymore.
--
Moe
138 Pound Centerboard
Lead-filled centerboard
It appears that mod isn't on Erik's website anymore.
--
Moe
On my '01X the CB will be slow to drop when I am underway at around 2 knots and refuses to budge at any higher speed. I believe the CB must take a set to one side or the other and holds fast when there is any appreciable forward or sideways movement.
Usually when sticking occurs at slow speed I have to gently turn the wheel half a turn one way and then the other, several times before it will loosen up.
The lead shot suspended within a suitable epoxy sounds neat.
Usually when sticking occurs at slow speed I have to gently turn the wheel half a turn one way and then the other, several times before it will loosen up.
The lead shot suspended within a suitable epoxy sounds neat.
-
Frank C
My boat is trailer stored and does not have this problem.R Rae wrote: On my '01X the CB will be slow to drop when I am underway at around 2 knots and refuses to budge at any higher speed.
... Usually when sticking occurs at slow speed I have to gently turn the wheel half a turn one way and then the other, several times before it will loosen up.
If your boat is slipped, I'd suspect this problem is due to a gathering
collection of critters in the CB trunk. But, if NOT kept in a slip ... hmmm ... ???
- Gazmn
- Admiral
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 10:22 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bayside, NY '97X, E-tec 115 Pontoon, The "Ollie Gray" & '01 Chevy Tahoe W/ Tow Pkg; AL 2X Trlr.
My boat is moored Frank. & I'm sure there's some "Critter stuff" going on. I think I'm going to try just a little weight; about 50lbs. I did read those referenced links which is what put the germ in my head.
Just for the record I also added some dampers in my CB trunk to stop the banging while moored. works like a charm. I used a couple of slices of closed cell foam, cut them on an angle that would compliment the CB blade side so it looks like an upside down V.
I figured a little extra weight would give me a better feel for the CB. And aid in its descent.
-Gaz
Just for the record I also added some dampers in my CB trunk to stop the banging while moored. works like a charm. I used a couple of slices of closed cell foam, cut them on an angle that would compliment the CB blade side so it looks like an upside down V.
I figured a little extra weight would give me a better feel for the CB. And aid in its descent.
-Gaz
- Chip Hindes
- Admiral
- Posts: 2166
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:13 am
- Location: West Sand Lake, NY '01X, "Nextboat" 50HP Tohatsu
Looks like a case of, "Doctor, it hurts when I do this."Reason being slight delay I get when lowering CB and building in some low center ballast while powering with empty ballast tank.
...
Just for the record I also added some dampers in my CB trunk to stop the banging while moored. works like a charm. I used a couple of slices of closed cell foam, cut them on an angle that would compliment the CB blade side so it looks like an upside down V.
Don't do that.
I am also making plans to add weight to the centerboard. Lead shot and epoxy seem to be the easiest and safest for small weight additions. Precision Reloading at http://www.precisionreloading.com/shot.htm will send 25 pounds to your door for $33 which includes shipping. Any infor on what shot size works well would be appreciated.
My reasons for adding weight are twofold. First I plan to add spacers or pucks to the centerboard to reduce the excessive clearance between the CB and trunk. The current configuration results in lateral movement at the tip of several inches. Not good for performance. The first thing that racers do to Catalina 22s, which have a similar problem, is to add pucks to the CB to remove all lateral movement.
I looked at adding a lot of weight but realistically it takes several hundred pounds to make a measureable impact on stability and the structural impacts are more than I care to deal with. The keel of the Catalina 22, which is not a stiff boat, weighs 525 pounds and its draft is also 5 feet.
In the end the weight necessary to lower the CB satisfactorily will depend on how snug the CB fits. I am hoping to come up with something that will be satisfactory while only adding 10 pounds or so. Time will tell.
If anyone else has done this or has experience with small weight additions to the CB I would be interested in their results.
My reasons for adding weight are twofold. First I plan to add spacers or pucks to the centerboard to reduce the excessive clearance between the CB and trunk. The current configuration results in lateral movement at the tip of several inches. Not good for performance. The first thing that racers do to Catalina 22s, which have a similar problem, is to add pucks to the CB to remove all lateral movement.
I looked at adding a lot of weight but realistically it takes several hundred pounds to make a measureable impact on stability and the structural impacts are more than I care to deal with. The keel of the Catalina 22, which is not a stiff boat, weighs 525 pounds and its draft is also 5 feet.
In the end the weight necessary to lower the CB satisfactorily will depend on how snug the CB fits. I am hoping to come up with something that will be satisfactory while only adding 10 pounds or so. Time will tell.
If anyone else has done this or has experience with small weight additions to the CB I would be interested in their results.
-
Frank C
I feel that adding weight to the CB might be good for adding a little stability under heel - additional, lower ballast. But I simply don't understand this problem, that the CB is not dropping.
As I just observed on another thread:
My board drops without assistance, but the only feedback is by watching the CB line pay out. IIRC, the factory provides about a foot of line-tail beyond the cleat. If the boat is still, my CB line pays out fully in less than 5 seconds. I usually release the board while filling the ballast tank, and verify the line-length before hoisting sail.
As I just observed on another thread:
My board drops without assistance, but the only feedback is by watching the CB line pay out. IIRC, the factory provides about a foot of line-tail beyond the cleat. If the boat is still, my CB line pays out fully in less than 5 seconds. I usually release the board while filling the ballast tank, and verify the line-length before hoisting sail.
- Erik Hardtle
- First Officer
- Posts: 408
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: New Bern, NC
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It appears that mod isn't on Erik's website anymore.
-- looks like my page accidently got deleted... I'll have it back up soon.
Erik
-- looks like my page accidently got deleted... I'll have it back up soon.
Erik
- baldbaby2000
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- Highlander
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- baldbaby2000
- Admiral
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- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2004 8:41 am
- Location: Rapid City, SD, 2005 26M, 40hp Tohatsu
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I think depending on your goal the sand and epoxy may be OK. I suspect the lead and epoxy will give a denser mixture. In my case I wanted the weight as low as possible so I melted it. It was also cheaper because I didn't have to buy epoxy. Epoxy doesn't weigh as much as lead.
Last edited by baldbaby2000 on Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
