Several threads exist in the archives about this, and I think a couple of mods have been posted. I have been interested in doing this, as well. I don't want a vent on deck where I walk, though. I'd rather go through the side behind the windows.
Several people have told that would be a bad idea (potential water inlet, not enough sun on Nicro), so I have postponed doing anything. Most folks agree the deck is the best place, but everyone in my family (including myself) is too clumsy for anything breakable on deck!
I want a Boeing blower in mine. You know, the type when you flush the head at 35,000 feet, in a second it sucks every molecule of air out of the chamber and down into the head!
The Nicros dont need direct sunlight to work, they will work in daylight even at 45N latitude in March, so putting it into the plexiglass will vent your head fine. Its also a lot easy to reverse by just replacing the plexiglass or even fabbing a plexiglass cap if you change your mind of course!!
I have one Nicro portside of mast (major mod) and one in the front hatch...I probably will add an exhaust only to the head this fall/next spring.
If I was going to put a powered blower in the head...... on a 96x, I would put a dryer vent pleated hose in and snake it throught the sink cabinet,. under the floor next to the shower drain pump, forward to the anchor locker, put the vent on a timer, and take that exhaust out forward.... where it will blow away from the boat and cockpit. This would also help dry the shower out faster........ (currently a sponge and leave the door open process.....)
but this winter........ I think is going to be a different project...
She wants a heater.......
and the wallas is the top candidate right now.......... course it is the priciest also by double.
Re Waterenwaves, I, like most people don't think my $h!+ stinks
So venting forward to the anchor locker seems like alot... of poop.[ I mean work]
I am currently considering two Nicros a la Catigale. Port & Starboard, either at the last Plexi window which lights the head and correspondingly to Port.
Or, do you guys think there is enough space just aft of the windows to install them. I think this would require cutting through 2 plys of fiberglass. & is there anything anyones found lurking in this area?
However, my holding tank is vented with a carbon filter out the transom,
I wonder, that would be a shorter run, and if I used a strong enough fan, I could use a regular dryer vent exterior gravity weighted baffle..........hmmmmmmm
Cheap, but would have to be mounted very very high in the aft corner.......
Don't know if WM still sells these move twice as much air as the nicro units runs for 48 hrs on rechargable batts has built in forward/ reverse switch no need to change fan blades , you can fit optional led light on bottom
I haven't yet found a pressing need to ventilate the head, but if I did I would not vent out the side at all for safety reasons in event of a knockdown, and maybe a leak problem from other than horizontal mounting. And not at the top for lack of appropriate foot space on deck. I would put a vent blowing air from the cabin into the head, where it would exit naturally around the door or into the bilge. That should provide for coolling, or moisture removal from the head. If you have head odors, prevent the source of the odor, rather than trying to blow it away.
This no odor setup that works for me.
First I use the land facilities if at all possible. But,
I installed a Raritan PII manual head, used solid PVC tubing to route the waste up and back to a 12 gal. Todd holding tank in aft berth directly behind the aft head wall. The solid plastic Todd waste tank was then wrapped in four layers of Saran Wrap.
Air vent is up to the overhead and them back to the transom just below the steering rod port on the starboard side.
1.5 in. vacuum port from rear of tank to gunwhale on starboard side above the rub rail, for dockside pumpouts, is pvc to a through hull fitting where only enough sanitation hose was used to connect.
Macerator in forward end of tank pushes waste through solid PVC to a ball valve, then to a downward sloping T joint in the solid pvc head sink drain pipe near the stock through hull fitting. There is a section of waste hose to connect macerator to pvc, and head to pvc only large enough to allow fitting together, which allows removal of any part of the system if necessary,without cutting pvc .
All pipe routes were designed not to spill in the event of a 90 degree knockdown.
Flush water is from one of the 9 gal. tanks in the bow and is not pressurized like the galley system.
While on this lake, the dockside pumpout must be used, so I make sure to fill the tank with fresh water and pump out again. to help remove any buildup.
When at home on the trailer, a garden hose stuck into the standard throughhull on the outside allows the macerator to flush into the house plumbing system from the outside toilet access port.
Night Sailor wrote:If you have head odors, prevent the source of the odor, rather than trying to blow it away.
I don't think my head smells any worse than the next guy's, but a porta-pottie tank with waste in it on a hot summer's day doesn't smell very pretty. Blowing that odor out of the boat rather than into it seems like a better plan to me.
After I wrote this, I read Night Sailor's other posting that occurred in the meanwhile. I think I'm going for the simpler route of blowing the smell out. I'm glad your system works well for you, but that is far too complicated for me. I'll stick with the porta-pottie that I pack out and dump (although I've got the one that can be pumped out and the boat has been plumbed to do so).
you could lose your kids to the Turd Sharks