Cleaning up the wiring

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deja_vu
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Cleaning up the wiring

Post by deja_vu »

I've been meaning to post some pics of a wiring clean up project I did back in October, but my job at work has been shifted over to people in India twice in the past two months, so I keep having to find something else to do in the company, and it's been tying me up. Anyway that's a whole different topic...

So first, I don't know who else has had this problem, but from the factory the wires on my boat on the port and starboard, aft sides kept falling out of the tracks every time I trailered the boat. Like this:

Image

and this:

Image

To solve that problem I bought some 1" marine grade split loom made by anchor marine. Thinking I'd need about 40' I bought 100' since that was the way to get it cheapest. I solved it by running the wire through the loom like this:

Image

And then jamming that up into the track. It now does not fall out, and an added beneft is no more worrying about the possiblity of wire chafing.

Next was to clean up the wiring along the bottom of the boat that runs from a fuse block, the engine, and the switchbox at the back of the boat to batteries in teh stock location. This is what it used to look like:

Image

I had thought I'd need at least two runs for that much wire, but it turned out when I got the wires all lined up it fit perfect. So now I've got like 70 feet of split loom waiting for another project. Here's the result:

Image

The fuse block is hanging on the ceiling of the starboard aft side behind the partition that covers the view of some of the steering hardware. Here's what it looked like before:

Image

And now:

Image

Of course, I really need to get around to putting labels on the fuses.

Those lines run up to a combiner and switch inside the box under the aft dinnette seat and then over to the stock battery location. I made a little shelf for it to mount to.

Image


Drawback to that is that I have to lift the seat to turn off the boat. There's a valid reason for it though. I have a 18 month old who loves to throw switches, I needed it hidded from view., when he gets older I'll move it.


Also, I decided to clean up the lines running to the engine. Here's the before and after:

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after:

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Anyway was nice to get that out of the way. Its one of those things I should have done as it was installed, but was in a rush, and didn't have the right stuff to do it all purdy.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

Nice Job and I really like the looks of the motor well!
LOUIS B HOLUB
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Post by LOUIS B HOLUB »

Divecoz wrote:Nice Job and I really like the looks of the motor well!
Definately looks professional :!:
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

That fuse block is very pro-looking too. Guess it takes too long (meaning too much min-wage labor time)
for the Factory to coil and pin the wiring, eh? :x

My only problem is that I've never "invested" in a pro-level crimper tool. When I bear-down on the cheapie crimpers, it sometimes simply cuts right through the terminal, like a wire cutter!! I need to Google for a quality crimper for the boat-box ... about the only place I need good crimping, never need it at home.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

Frank C wrote:That fuse block is very pro-looking too. Guess it takes too long (meaning too much min-wage labor time)
for the Factory to coil and pin the wiring, eh? :x

My only problem is that I've never "invested" in a pro-level crimper tool. When I bear-down on the cheapie crimpers, it sometimes simply cuts right through the terminal, like a wire cutter!! I need to Google for a quality crimper for the boat-box ... about the only place I need good crimping, never need it at home.
Frank for small wires #16 = #10 stranded try T&B hand crimp or Ideal Yellow Handled Electricians pliers with a duel 1 size fits most crimper Both sold at H.D. + or - $20.00
deja_vu
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT '07 26M Merc 60BF "SnowDrifter"

Post by deja_vu »

Thanks for the compliments.

Frank, I don't have a "pro level" crimper, but it's a step up from the one I had been using that was slicing things open. After the first few crimps with one of those $6 cheapy ones I went to the local hardware store and got this:

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-gb-multi- ... 92765.html


It has worked well for a all of the many connections and stays in my boat box with some spare terminals.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

Divecoz wrote:
Frank C wrote:That fuse block is very pro-looking too. Guess it takes too long (meaning too much min-wage labor time)
for the Factory to coil and pin the wiring, eh? :x

My only problem is that I've never "invested" in a pro-level crimper tool. When I bear-down on the cheapie crimpers, it sometimes simply cuts right through the terminal, like a wire cutter!! I need to Google for a quality crimper for the boat-box ... about the only place I need good crimping, never need it at home.
Frank for small wires #16 = #10 stranded try T&B hand crimp or Ideal Yellow Handled Electricians pliers with a duel 1 size fits most crimper Both sold at H.D. + or - $20.00
OOOppppssss Closer to $40 without my discount Ideal #40-430 I think was the number for Side Cutting Pliers Bullet proof btw .
Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL
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Re: Cleaning up the wiring

Post by Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL »

deja_vu wrote: marine grade split loom
Is "marine grade" actually any better than regular split loom, or just more expensive?

Harbor Freight has a very good crimpers. Five bucks + / - . The wire cutter part of it doesn't work at all, though.
deja_vu
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT '07 26M Merc 60BF "SnowDrifter"

Post by deja_vu »

Won't be able to say for sure until I see how this holds up, but supposedly it's got better heat resistance and better durability. I can tell you it feels thicker and more flexible. Also I got it cheaper than the local auto parts suppliers would have charged me to bring in 1" split loom. I don't know if you've ever tried to get split loom over 3/4," but here in Utah no one stocks thicker than that, and none of the auto wholesalers will order it in in less than 250" lengths, and most wouldn't even do that. I know I spent an afternoon calling and driving around, getting very frustrated.

Anyway I got 100' for $50 plus shipping of maybe $12. The local shop wanted a couple hundred for the auto stuff. The local boat shops sells 3/4" "marine grade" for $1.50 to $2 per foot if I'm remembering correctly. Most of the auto parts sell 3/4" for around a .75 to buck a foot, but there was no way 3/4" would work for the engine wiring or that big harness from the fuse block to the battery, plus I've had automotive split loom crumble on me after a few years. My hope is this will hold up better.

I've just got a ton extra now. If anyone is interested I'll be happy to send them some for what I paid plus shipping, not looking to make a profit on it, shipping would be a bit since it is kind of bulky, very light though.
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