I am about to bottom paint my 26X as I want to leave it in the water for the summer. The process seems strait forward enough but what I wasn't sure of was does the keel get painted? what about the housing for the keel? should the paint go to the black line on the hull? thanks for any input Rob
You definitely want to paint the CB and the CB trunk as that is the largest problem area. I use one of those cheapy "sponge on a stick" paint brush thingees to get up inbetween the board and the well. Although one of these times, when I am painting the whole bottom, I need to drop the board to do a proper job.
I don't think you need to paint up to the black stripe. My bottom paint stops a couple inches below the stripe and its still too high. Ie, the waterline is probably 8 inches below...unless you store the boat with a whole lot of heavy stuff in it.
I just bottom painted my boat. I removed the CB on the trailer and it wasn't that hard. Put something below the CB that is soft or have someone below to hold it so it doesn't hit the ground. Undo the CB bolt inside the boat. I had to tap the bolt loose. Then the CB is simply pulled down and forward off the trailer as it comes out. I untied it from the CB line (I have a 00 so it has a line instead of a cable). I did notice the line had worn a bit in an area so I replaced it. Then I put the CB on a drop cloth and propped it up so I could paint both sides. Put 2 coats on it. I painted the CB trunk up to the water line level, but not all the way up to the top of the trunk. The CB is a little harder to get back in, but not terribly difficult.
I was really glad I did that since I had some barnacle growth I had to sand off and I was able to inspect the line (which was showing some wear) and hardware. Don't forget to reseal the bolt when you put it back in the boat.
I used West Marine PCA w/Iragrol anti slime. Cheaper than Interlux or Trinidad w/anti slime, but still very expensive. I am pleased with it though, and in the future I can just paint over it as it doesn't create any build up on the hull, it just comes off and is "self polishing". It is also good for trailers. All around I think it is the best bottom paint for heavy fouling areas for dry sailing the boat. I live in a very heavy fouling area (NC- Neuse river area) and have seen growth after 2 days on the water with my previous worn out bottom paint.
Oh, My bottom paint goes a few inches below the black stripe as well. You really just want to paint to the water line on the boat when it is fully loaded- no more.
Thanks to all who replied, especially Jeff S. I have just completed the bottom paint on my Mac. I did as Jeff suggested and removed the cb which was a very good thing because the rope was badly frayed and on hanger bracket, the pivot pin was wearing a bigger hole in the cb. I epoxied a piece of 1/2 in copper waterpipe to act as a bushing. hope this works also the pin that the cb rests against when all the way down, the weld on one side had failed so I had a local welder repair that. I used the interlux epoxy cop with a no sand primer. It was an interesting experiance glad it over the boat goes into the water this weekend and off to the sunshine coast Good sailing Rob M
Did you leave it on the trailer when you painted it? If so, did you jack it up off the trailer bunks so you could paint there too? I have a 26M that needs bottom paint.
Having taken macs off trailers now pretty much every way possible, slings, jacks, trailer rocking, launching...
and bottom painted
It feels fairly secure using the mac trailer to raise and lower the boat (lifting the bow and stern alternately) and blocking at each extension of the jack. but it is much faster to use a hydraulic floor jack to lift and block. The critical time is when you are bringing the boat back down onto the trailer true into the bow chock and setting the boat even between the fenders. Much easier to position the trailer after painting, if you are not using the trailer to lower or lift the boat..... and you have to get the trailer at least 6" clear of the boat to get your applicators in use, brush, roller, spray etc...
I have used sailboat stands..... but the shape of the mac hull seems to rest more securely on wood 2x8's resting on log rounds..... Though cinder blocks worked under the 2x8s worked well the first time.
waternwaves wrote:Having taken macs off trailers now pretty much every way possible, slings, jacks, trailer rocking, launching .... the shape of the mac hull seems to rest more securely on wood 2x8's resting on log rounds ... Though cinder blocks worked under the 2x8s worked well the first time.
Hmmm ... I guess the point is that log rounds (I'm picturing tree stumps) are more secure than cinder blocks? And both 2x8s must eventually be shifted for painting, eh?
When I get around to it, I think I will just use one jack beam, probably easier to just use a 4x4 post. Should be about the same strength as a 2X8 beam but easier to use (I'm presuming you didn't have the 2X8 laying flat).
I figure you put the front of the trailer all the way down, then put the jack beam in behind the rear bunk, then jack the front up. The boat should now be on the jack beam and the front bunk. Paint everywhere you can reach, then lower the front again so you can remove the jack. Now I'm not sure if the same jack beam could be used or it would need to be a different height, but I would raise the front, insert the jack in the front of the boat, lower the trailer down and then paint the front and back pieces that were missed in the first round.
When I do this, I'll drop the CB and change the line and bracket. Better to paint the CB and trunk with it out of the boat.
