The MacGregor Bump

[Mark Prouty]

I'm having a difficult time getting my boat to settle all the way forward into the forward V rubber cushion. I do the MacGregor Bump until it seems if I go any faster and the slam on the brakes it would do damage but I still can't get my boat forward enough. Any suggestion.

[Jeff Drumm]

The next time you've got your boat off the trailer and the bunks are dry, spray 'em down with a good thick mist of Armor All or Pledge. The boat will 'bump' like teflon on wet ice

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

Are you torquing the winch cable in between each bump? I find mine won't move unless I keep tightening the winch. Also, it helps if the bottom is wet and slimy. Others have advocated putting that liquid roller stuff on the bunks but I could see how that could be a bit dangerous too...ie, if the bunks are too slippery...so I don't use it myself.

[HERNDON]

I have never had a problem getting my boat uo to the front bumper
before pulling out of the water but as I pull up the ramp the nylon
web strap streches and I have a 2-3 inch space. I occasionally squirt
dish washing soap on the bunks. The boat always slides back to
where it belongs. Strap broke last year....4th trip for me and my boat.
I noticed as I pulled up the ramp the boat wanted to play in the water
more.

Rob

[Larry Read]

I used to do the bump on a level surface and fairly aggressivly and had no problems. I purchased Liquid Rolers but I just don't like the idea of the boat possibly slipping off so I didn't use it.

My trailer has brakes and that might make a difference? The only trouble I have ever had is I let my wife, Nelda do the bump once as she is usually the is the one pulling the boat up the ramp. Now she gets all the fun and I only have the memories of bumping.
Seriously Mark, are you stopping with enough gusto? It takes a pretty good jolt. When it bumps you really know it and it goes all the way.
Larry

[Frank C]

. . . I occasionally squirt
dish washing soap on the bunks.

Me too ... works very well, needs more soap about once each month on my unpainted hull.

. . . strap broke last year....4th trip for me and my boat.
I noticed as I pulled up the ramp the boat wanted to play in the water
more.

This can be dangerous business. My son was once the tow-driver for our electric utility's Bay research craft. Their winch strap parted and he left a 10,000 pound research vessel sitting smack-dab, mid-intersection in downtown San Francisco. It didn't hit anybody, but did cause a traffic dilemma of sorts. It's a good idea to have a backup, security chain. Hook up the security chain with a bolt, open link or snap-hook, but choose something heavy duty.

. . . as I pull up the ramp the nylon web strap streches and I have a 2-3 inch space.

This is a problem in geometry. As the trailer is inclined down the ramp, the boat floats level above it. And as you've tightened the winch w/ boweye in contact with the v-block, the transom still floats a foot above the rear bunk. (In fact, when afloat the boat touches only the front bunk, so it never scrapes across them).

As the trailer advances up the ramp, the stern settles onto the aft bunk and the bow assumes its natural position, several inches aft of the v-block. I prefer to remain on the trailer tongue and wind a final wrap onto the winch as my Mate slowly advances the rig up the ramp. I still end-up with a 2-inch gap, easily corrected by the Mac bump, which also helps relieve the final strain on the winch and winch line.

[Ken Smith]

I bought a new winch with a better ratio and that solved the problem. I just winch it back up the 3-4 inches. If the boat is moved to far foward the keel will drop down off the bunk.
Ken

[Dan B]

I was never too happy with the bump approach. Not enough control when dealing with several thousand pounds. My approach is to winch the boat up tight, drive 2-3 feet up the ramp, stop and winch it tight again, repeat the process until you are at the top of the ramp. Once at the top the bow sits tight in the rubber bumper.

[BK]

Forget the bump. After pulling out, push the bow back and forth and crank at the same time. The boat will be in the snub in a minute. Best to do this while bunks are wet. I use the rollar spray also.

[Paul S]

Forget the bump. After pulling out, push the bow back and forth and crank at the same time. The boat will be in the snub in a minute. Best to do this while bunks are wet. I use the rollar spray also.

Recovered the boat the other day. Also was not crazy about how far up the trailer it went. Macgregor should either re-engineer the trailer/winch, or at least tell owners how to get it snug. I never had this problem with our powerboat.

Anywho...When I got the boat up as far as I could, I took the bow and shook it from side to side..winched it up...repeat...repeat..it got up far enough to be acceptable.

I think part of the problem is the winch rope instead of the strap that our old boat trailer had. I think the rope has too much stretch in it. Has anyone replaced the rope with a strap? Not only should it have less stretch, it should be a lot longer.

Was going to try the soap trick, but never had an issue all these years with our old boat. I think it would have helped. I thought of it when I was trying to get it up snug.

I do have to say that the boat seems to center itself far better on the bunks than our old boat/trailer did. Pull it on, up the trailer, watching the guides, shake it a bit...perfect. Now if getting it snug on the bow stop would be easier...would be perfect.

Paul

[Jesse Days Pacific Star 2]

BK is correct, do the MAC wiggle. Works for us quite well.

Jesse

[Tony D-26X_SusieQ]

What causes the problem is the way MacGregor designed the winch. In order for the ladder to be usable the winch post has to be straight up. If you look at other trailer designes the winch post is tilted forwared. The result is when you winch the boat onto the trailer the stern is floating above the trailer beds and the bow hits the v-block higher up than it will sit when the boat settles onto the beds. When the boat settles onto the bed the bow rises up and there is a gap left between the v-block and the hull. The only ways to avoid this would be to either slant the post forward so thet the V-block contacts the correct spot on the bow (and loose the use of the ladder) or crank the winch as you pull the trailer out of the water. (Not a very safe procedure). A remote electric winch could accomplish this a lot more safely.

[Frank C]

. . . The only ways to avoid this would be to either slant the post forward so thet the V-block contacts the correct spot on the bow (and loose the use of the ladder) or crank the winch as you pull the trailer out of the water. (Not a very safe procedure). A remote electric winch could accomplish this a lot more safely.

Actually, there is another answer to this problem, though I'm fine with cranking the winch as the boat is pulled upramp. BTW, I have the Mate pull up 12" and stop, another 12" and stop, third times the charm. I'd not want to try to RIDE the trailer tongue up the ramp.

Try it, you might like it - a lot cheaper than an electric winch. However, if you're nervous about winching upramp, another budget solution is available. Some owners have flipped the winch and bolted it atop the winch mount, I think requiring some drilling. Apparently by raising the drum about 3 inches the winch can pull the bow fully up to its target position while the stern is still afloat.

[Dimitri-2000X-Tampa]

BK is correct, do the MAC wiggle. Works for us quite well.

Jesse

I can never seem to get the bow to move like that... And also, the bow is snug in the stop while the boat is in the water. Its as you come up the ramp that it moves away from the stop. I may try Frank's approach next time...although I might be a bit worried that the mate may forget I'm there

[Rolf]

I always get frightened stares as I do the bump tearing around the parking lot(usually need to do it twice). Just a matter of time til someone calls the police or 911.
Rolf