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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:54 am
by Loefflerh
There is a pliable rubber ideal for making a seal for this area. It is the rubber diaphram used in welding torch regulators. Oddly it has an ability to pucker around a shaft tightly without loosing it's elasticity. Believe me I have tried all types of rubber including rubbers.

Big T


Big T, do you have a link, part#, picture or anything to find and get that diaphram? Any help would be appreciated!
Hans

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:34 am
by Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
I hadn't thought of the wicking effect in the pedestal, probably because I had a custom helm cover made when I first bought the boat. Actually, the primary reason was to protect the autopilot from the sun (and keep some of those type goodies hidden to deter theft). But now that I think about it, that cover would also keep rain away from the control box where water might wick into the cabin. I think I paid about $80 for custom sunbrella from a canvas shop. Only downside is if I ever want to go with a larger wheel, the cover won't fit any more.

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:01 am
by Phillip
Here is a solution.
I'm in horticulture, and we used different types of plastic, and have specialised fixing systems.
If you get horticulture plastic, or better still the solar weave, with UV protection, you can make a cover, any size you want, and use the plastic butterly clamps, that clamp over the edges of the plastic in such a manner you can put tie cords or bungee straps on them for securing.
I had an X with the same problem, and that is what I did.
Result, dry as...
If you want to follow this track, PM me and i will get you photos of the parts and give suggestions as to where you are likely to get them.
Cheers
Phillip

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:19 am
by R Rae
I concur exactly the comments of Rick. How I discovered this was by setting up a lawn sprinkler in the cockpit, and going below witnessed firsthand how the water was mainly running down the control cables.......and lots of it too.

Good luck

Ron

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:03 pm
by ChrisNorton
Thank you all for the many excellent replies. My boat is in the water from April to November so a tarp isn't going to work. Believe me. I've been battling these leaks ever since I got the boat five years ago. I've done the hose tests and sealed and resealed the pedastal, fuel lockers, steering cable, engine cables, engine well drain, rudder hangers, chain plates, jib tracks, stanchion posts, and more. Nothing has completely stopped it. It isn't serious but just enough to mold. It doesn't actually get the cushions topsides wet as it doesn't drip from directly above. It is rain water for sure (as I've tasted it and it isn't salty.)

In any event, there are some excellent options here. I really like the Froli supports. That may be the way I go. Or the mold mats. Getting air circulating under the cushions should be enough as there really isn't that much water there.

I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

Chris

Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:43 pm
by ChrisNorton
One other question. I've often been told to buy much of this stuff at an RV store but sadly there are none around me. What are the best RV accessory online stores? I can only seem to find a lot of mom and pop places wtth little inventory. Thanks

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:53 am
by Frank C
ChrisNorton wrote:Thank you all for the many excellent replies. My boat is in the water from April to November so a tarp isn't going to work.
I don't get it, Chris. My boat's been in a slip for past year, covered with a boom-tent tarp that entire time. With that coverage, the only possible leaks are at the chain plates ... which ARE leaking. I've tasted it too.

Regarding Froli ... I think your only options are to buy from the sole USA distributor. Find her at a boat show (as did I), or on the internet.

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:29 am
by RickJ
:idea: Have you considered the possibility that it's condensation :?:

Although I did have rain leaks, I'm sure some of the moisture in mine was condensation. I've got one of those CaCl moisture absorber tubs which helps, but what's worked better is a solar-powered vent.

I put one in a couple of weeks ago, after putting the boat in the water, and the air inside stays really fresh now. The moisture absorber doesn't seem to have anything to absorb any more either!

I got an ICP one, cheaper than a Nicro, will even fit a Nicro plate if you want it removable.

Cheers, Rick

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 3:47 pm
by ChrisNorton
I just didn't want to deal with the hassle of dealing with a tarp while in the slip (yes I am extremely lazy). When on land in the winter it is tarped and stays dry as a bone. With a six week old baby in the house now I just don't have the time to try to find the leaks again and as I said since it isn't that bad (I don't need to empty the bilge more than 3 or 4 times a season) I am just going to deal with it as is. Getting the cushions off the bottom with froli or something else will make me happy.

As for the RV stores, I actually wanted to buy some other stuff (DC microwave for example.) It has often been said on this board that everything is way cheaper at an RV store but I can't find a really good one online. Does anyone have recommendations?

Thanks,
Chris

Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:29 pm
by Kelly Hanson East
Give The Keeper of Knowledge 'Moe' a PM on this one Chris, Im sure he can help out.

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:58 pm
by Rick Mathews
We struggled for about a year and half trying to find a similar rain leak in our 2002 26X. It turned out that it was rain getting into the rub rail, which acted as a perfect conduit to channel the water back to the very end of the rub rail at the stern. I pried off the plastic cap over the end of the rub rail and peeled the rub rail back a bit to reveal a gaping hole in the joint between the hull and the transom that was letting in all the water that drained down the rub rail! The factory evidently hadn't filled the gap properly with 5200. So I caulked the gap with 5200, put the rub rail back in place, and it hasn't leaked since. For good measure, I also try to keep the joint between the rub rail and the deck caulked.