MacGregorSailors.com

Try "Meguiar's".

Mother's 2nd step glaze works even better but requires an electric buffer and more rubbing when u manually wipe it. I tried mother's for the starboard side this year (it was on sale) and I think it gives a deeper shinier finish. Don't forget to only use carnauba wax as it has no additives.
Q1

Just finished the starboard side,


did the port side yesterday, the insides last week and maybe if it does not rain the upper deck and cockpit tomorrow.
Q1

Hey Shanker!

When you get down to the finer grits it's more important to use only premium quality paper. Lower quality paper will not have the uniformity of peaks found in the better-quality name-brand stuff ( eg.3M). (Although it has been a while and maybe 3M has an economy oriented product).

Even a small number of abrasive grains riding high on the paper will cut deeper into the surface than the rest and the next finer grade you progress to will not remove enough material to get to the bottom of the scratches, which must be done in order to remove them.

If f this is the case and you inspect the surface closely you will be able to see a small number of scratches that are unusually deep.

Grains of abrasive shed from the previous coarser grade that remain on the surface can cause this as well.

Don't know what paper you used.

Is it possible that you switched to the next finer grade before the surface was completed with the coarser grade?

After 3 years of only washing and spray waxing my boat. This year I did not want to live with a shining oxizides boat.
I bought Meguiar's diamond cut 2.0,Meguiar's 2.0 high gloss wax, and borrowed a professional high powered buffer.
The diamond cut after a few generous applications got rid of the oxidation, and high gloss gave it the wet look. It took me three days to do this. Two of those days was with the professional buffer, and the diamond cut. I used my orbital buffer to apply the high gloss wax, It did a good job of evenly spreading the wax, and putting a good amount of the polishing wax on the boat. I applied the wax to the whole boat and not sections. This work was all done in doors at Riverdale Marina. Scott is the gelcoat expert there and has repaired my gelcoat boo boos. It was Scott who told my what to use and how to doe this. Oh
when using the high powered buffer make sure to use plenty of diamond cut on the area before using the buffer. Don't put the diamond cut on the buffer pad. Put it on the boat using a clean rag. Be generous with the diamond cut to avoid burn marks. The end results is a boat that looks new. No yellowing. I now have two people who wants me to bring there gelcoat back to its original color and shine. I can not do their boats because that would cut into my play time.

Capt. Black.. they would never...... pay you enough to make it worth your while either.. Honestly the "trick" isn't were you put the cutting agent.. ( your choice) its How you operate the buffer..ask any real pro ( high end custom car guy..) ..not some guy making $20 an hour at a boat shop..

I always skimp on the two step shuffle, thinking once I'm on the water sittin around, I can take my time and do a section at a time. Never happens! Honestly - you guys are putting me to shame big time! I can clearly see i'm going to have to turn over a new leaf.....

One of these days I'm going to pass another Mac on the water and someones going to hold up a score card with my number on it!

I am with ya brother.. ( But I See Your Boat Is Blue!!) Wet sand my boat? No Thanks..( I wet sanded a lot of cars in my life) My boat is white and the effort and the time is not worth the final out come.. I power wash my boat and scrub it, along the way with a soft bristle brush.. I then use a cleaner , a wax filler and a protective coat / sealer. ( I no longer use the big buffer.. too heavy etc etc and I get acceptable appearance with a machine thats a 1/3 the weight or less and 1/2 the effort) My wax job..sort a ... last for the entire season with exception of the black stripe.. that, I hit with a detail wipe on wipe off product..When deciding between the Generic White or the Gorgeous Blue those issue's made the decision for me.. " For Me" ..having owned a LOT.. of high Maintenance Vehicles in the past, when I was a lot younger.. it wasnt in the cards..I do use Aurora Anti Fouling wax 2 to 4 coats ( depending on the level of my ambition) for my final bottom coat..

Crikey wrote:I always skimp on the two step shuffle, thinking once I'm on the water sittin around, I can take my time and do a section at a time. Never happens! Honestly - you guys are putting me to shame big time! I can clearly see i'm going to have to turn over a new leaf.....

One of these days I'm going to pass another Mac on the water and someones going to hold up a score card with my number on it!

I like keeping my hull bottom smooth for speed. Does an antifouling wax have much effectiveness compared to regular bottom paints. They are far too lumpy for my liking. With trailering most of the time the hull doesn't get too long a chance to grow weed that pressure washing can't take off.

Ross

Crikey.. our boat sat in a slip from around the 1st of May to the end of Oct.( fresh water) It enabled me to basically power wash off, all the stuff..
IT "seemed " to reduce the amount of stuff.. and its ability to cling to the hull. Seemed to... Believe me if I hadn't convinced myself it was helping I wouldn't spend the time or the money doing it..( I also use the Mary Kate Product as a cleaner) For two, maybe three years I applied Speed Wax over that.. I dont anymore .. Bottom paint? If your referring to Anti-fouling paint?( some here confuse anti fauling with barrier coat) I assume paint is much better for VERY long term , in water , storage.. Those paints have developed over the last few years from Fred Flintstone to George Jettson..and Fred's crap is still on the market.. They all (?) slow down your boat..There is today a couple of products that are quiet smooth and slick and would reduce your speed ....minimally..and some now last years and some now are designed to be taken in and out of the water and sit in both conditions with minimal negative effect on the products ability to counteract fouling..

Crikey wrote:I like keeping my hull bottom smooth for speed. Does an antifouling wax have much effectiveness compared to regular bottom paints. They are far too lumpy for my liking. With trailering most of the time the hull doesn't get too long a chance to grow weed that pressure washing can't take off.

Ross

Thanks Divecoz, I'll check it out!

Ross

The Aurora Product goes on smooth as silk...you have to over lap to be sure you cover every bit of the hull. It looks just like any other wax once applied..

Looks awesome, Q1!