Fail Unsafe

[mastreb]

Matt,

What type kellet do you use on what type of anchor?

How's that for hijacking a thread?

I use a 7 lb. grapnel with a screw pin shackle. It's the same grapnel I use for rock mooring and mud, but locked closed instead of locked open. I just put the shackle over the rode and let the grapnel slide down the rope to where-ever it decides to stop. That keeps the rode level with the sea floor and really improves the anchor's ability to bite and stay set. When I haul it up it's at the end of the rode before the chain and I just take it off. Easy peasy!

I have a cheap 5lb. Danforth style I use when I'm not worried about anything, and a 7 lb. Fortress that I use when I am. The Fortress is about twice the overall size as the danforth and on a way heavier duty rode.

Matt

[bscott]

2 X for the Schaefer SF700. One of the reasons I went to the CF700 over the CF500 was for the luff tape--same as KH C2000 jib. This is my 3rd season with the CF700 with absolutely no issues.
1--It has a larger diameter drum with torlon brgs which can be hand furled even under heavy stress. If you decide to use the winch, she will handle it with ease.
2--Like the Harken 00, it has an external halyard that you use just like a conventional jib which means you can winch the head hard if need be. This also lets you fine tune the jib from the cockpit--harden up in heavy wind, ease out for down wind for better sail shape. I have a Harken swivel clam cleat on my mast so I can raise/lower the halyard from the drum or cockpit. This helps me feed the luff to raise the sail or lower the sail and remove the shackle and stuff the sail into the foredeck hatch. I bungee the drum so it can't turn.
3--the jib halyard attached to the head and luff reduce some of the stess on the forestay wire--I went one wire size bigger, a CF700 requirement.
All in all, the CF700 is as robust furler, can be left on the boat while trailering, has a strong flex foil that does not seem to take a set and can be used to induce sail shape for better pointing. The one negative is it's heavier weight and is more expensive.
I never operate my without ballast

Bob

[K9Kampers]

Has anyone else experienced this...

I had a similar experience four years ago that I wrote about...LINK (first three paragraghs).

[magnetic]

@vizwiz - excellent response, many thanks for this great information

[Catigale]

The CF 700 is more than twice the price of the CDI FF2 with Torlon bearings - I would consider it if I were heavy duty offshore/coastal but for ligth duty or lake sailing this is not the place to spend this money, imho. I consider 4 weeks per year on the Cape light duty.

[DaveB]

Bob,
Good to hear your comments.
I do have the KH c2000 jib with the #6 luff tape.
Are you saying the SF700 will take the #6 luff tape?
That would be good news!
The ease of lowering headsail looks simple and I would only do it from spring to a 150 and Fall back to a 105 jib.(our winds are light during summer)
The windage aloft would concern me more than weight, being that the round sleeve VS/ CDI flat sleave when furled giving it more windage resistance.
The knife cutting sleeve on the CDI has been mentioned and I have experanced chaffing on the edge to replace lines until I rounded the stainless sleeve.
No one shoul have to go thru this and CDI should redesign as that caseing will cut thru the furler line in a heart beat if conditions let it.
Thanks for you experance knowledge in the SF700
One last thought, I have a 5 ft . 1" diamiter pole I secure the CDI roller furler to when Trailer Sailing as the furler is overhanging 3 ft. past the Bow pulpit and gave it support for a straight length.
Dave

2 X for the Schaefer SF700. One of the reasons I went to the CF700 over the CF500 was for the luff tape--same as KH C2000 jib. This is my 3rd season with the CF700 with absolutely no issues.
1--It has a larger diameter drum with torlon brgs which can be hand furled even under heavy stress. If you decide to use the winch, she will handle it with ease.
2--Like the Harken 00, it has an external halyard that you use just like a conventional jib which means you can winch the head hard if need be. This also lets you fine tune the jib from the cockpit--harden up in heavy wind, ease out for down wind for better sail shape. I have a Harken swivel clam cleat on my mast so I can raise/lower the halyard from the drum or cockpit. This helps me feed the luff to raise the sail or lower the sail and remove the shackle and stuff the sail into the foredeck hatch. I bungee the drum so it can't turn.
3--the jib halyard attached to the head and luff reduce some of the stess on the forestay wire--I went one wire size bigger, a CF700 requirement.
All in all, the CF700 is as robust furler, can be left on the boat while trailering, has a strong flex foil that does not seem to take a set and can be used to induce sail shape for better pointing. The one negative is it's heavier weight and is more expensive.
I never operate my without ballast

Bob

[DaveB]

Cape Cod, Light Winds in Summer? SE-SW winds pick up in early afternoon to 12-18 knots...who are you kidding?
Dave

The CF 700 is more than twice the price of the CDI FF2 with Torlon bearings - I would consider it if I were heavy duty offshore/coastal but for ligth duty or lake sailing this is not the place to spend this money, imho. I consider 4 weeks per year on the Cape light duty.

[bscott]

Dave,
I the CF700 will accept a #6--they have an excellent web site which has all the specs and an installation guide--mauriprosailing.com Wow--the price is almost 2 X what I paid 3 yrs ago I sold my take off CDI to a member of this forum.

TRAILERING:

I disconnect the furler foil from the mast head and move the entire unit aft so the furler drum is attached directly to the pulpit and inside a heavy duty motorcycle helmet bag. This adds about 5 mins to the mast raising/lowering but eliminates any chance of damage. I keep the bag in place for trailering and storage.

Because the CF700 is heavier than the CDI, I first reattach the foil at the head and place the drum in a motorcycle helmet bag (heavy duty) and let the drum slide along the foredeck. I attach a heavy duty bungee to the drum and foredeck cleat so the drum does not slide off the foredeck and elevates as the mast goes up. As soon as the mast is secure and the backstay is fastened, I remove the bag/bungee and attach the forestay/drum.

You will have to change out your current forestay wire and turnbuckle--same as Terry. Frankly, the wire rigging on all the Macs are too light of a diameter for my taste.

I have an adjustable backstay with a Garhauer 4:1 vang which makes things alot easier to pin the drum.

SAILING:

I don't know if a rounded foil is any better than a fin but the sail rolls up without any resistance. Wind resistance???? The sail shape reefed to 50% on my standard KH jib is OK--any more reefing and the clew raises too high. Can't speak to a 150 without a reefing luff tape. Because I am anal I cut about 3" off the foot of my KH so the sail raise 6" above the drum.

If you want to maximize your pointing the CF provides a captive halyard that can flatten the head of the jib on a close reach and ease it on a run or broad reach. Changing sails is a snap--see my last post.

As in most thing nautical, the brands with the most safety and sailing features just cost more but the cost of rigging failure cost even more. I'll probably have my boat 5/6 more years so the net cost of the CF is probably $100/year.

Bob

[ROAD Soldier]

I have had my furling line break twice resulting in Magnetic situation both times almost to the tee. Luckily I have an autopilot and just head into the wind as slow as possible with my big Ida rudder down and wind the headsail back in by hand keeping a leg wrapped around a lifeline. The first time was completely my fault in that I saw the original furling line start to fray and didn't replace it. The second time was one of those lesson learned type things. The furling line retaining knot is the weakest point on the line so if you use your boat a lot cut that piece off once a year and retie it so you have a fresh knot to take the chaffing and strain.

[Catigale]

Ive got the original furler line on my 2002 with the CDI FF2....I run it back to a Harken miniblock on the pulpit so that the line doesnt touch the drum - this isnt hard to do.
on the Cape winds Dave....but for only 4 weeks per year, I dont think an offshore piece of kit is justified..

[Terry]

Ive got the original furler line on my 2002 with the CDI FF2....I run it back to a Harken miniblock on the pulpit so that the line doesnt touch the drum - this isnt hard to do.
on the Cape winds Dave....but for only 4 weeks per year, I dont think an offshore piece of kit is justified..

The Schaefer CF700 Snapfurler is not even remotely considered offshore, it was designed for trailer sailboats, hence the flexible foil and the 24'-28' hull length specs.

[DaveB]

Bob,
Thankyou for detail info.
I don't want any more windage for furling ( when sail is furled and larger diamiter) also the added weight aloft of the system aloft. the Mac. is a tender boat and wants the lower center of effort closer to deck.
Headsails with a luff fill only adds to windage when furled and doesn't help much in our boats. I had a 150 genoa on my compac 19 with the luff and tho it did give good shape when furled it caused to much windage aloft when sailing or partial sail beating.
My headsail now has just a UV sail 6 oz 10 inches wide that potects the headsail when furled . This is much thinner than a Sunbrella protection and can furl much tighter.
This is important for us Mac. Owners that need a tighter furl .
I probably will just buy a new CDI 2 as it does keep the headsail tight and less wind resistance.
Thanks again for your info and Sail Safe.
Dave

Dave,
I the CF700 will accept a #6--they have an excellent web site which has all the specs and an installation guide--mauriprosailing.com Wow--the price is almost 2 X what I paid 3 yrs ago I sold my take off CDI to a member of this forum.

TRAILERING:

I disconnect the furler foil from the mast head and move the entire unit aft so the furler drum is attached directly to the pulpit and inside a heavy duty motorcycle helmet bag. This adds about 5 mins to the mast raising/lowering but eliminates any chance of damage. I keep the bag in place for trailering and storage.

Because the CF700 is heavier than the CDI, I first reattach the foil at the head and place the drum in a motorcycle helmet bag (heavy duty) and let the drum slide along the foredeck. I attach a heavy duty bungee to the drum and foredeck cleat so the drum does not slide off the foredeck and elevates as the mast goes up. As soon as the mast is secure and the backstay is fastened, I remove the bag/bungee and attach the forestay/drum.

You will have to change out your current forestay wire and turnbuckle--same as Terry. Frankly, the wire rigging on all the Macs are too light of a diameter for my taste.

I have an adjustable backstay with a Garhauer 4:1 vang which makes things alot easier to pin the drum.

SAILING:

I don't know if a rounded foil is any better than a fin but the sail rolls up without any resistance. Wind resistance???? The sail shape reefed to 50% on my standard KH jib is OK--any more reefing and the clew raises too high. Can't speak to a 150 without a reefing luff tape. Because I am anal I cut about 3" off the foot of my KH so the sail raise 6" above the drum.

If you want to maximize your pointing the CF provides a captive halyard that can flatten the head of the jib on a close reach and ease it on a run or broad reach. Changing sails is a snap--see my last post.

As in most thing nautical, the brands with the most safety and sailing features just cost more but the cost of rigging failure cost even more. I'll probably have my boat 5/6 more years so the net cost of the CF is probably $100/year.

Bob

[DaveB]

You lucky Dog!
I don't think so either if your refering to the Sheafer 500-700.
So were Ya going this Summer?
Try Nantucket and go all the way up the inner bay. the Mac. can do it with rudders up,centerboard down 1 ft. and motor in.
Great shell fishing, Couhaugs,pi$$ clams,and bay Scallups if if you arrive early.
Just to smell the salt air on the Islands would be great.
Happy camping and Sailing.
Dave

Ive got the original furler line on my 2002 with the CDI FF2....I run it back to a Harken miniblock on the pulpit so that the line doesnt touch the drum - this isnt hard to do.
on the Cape winds Dave....but for only 4 weeks per year, I dont think an offshore piece of kit is justified..

[Catigale]

Back to Cuttyhunk, Tarp cove, woods hole for me this summer....4 trips planned.

[robbarnes1965]

Similar happened to me on my mainsail furler in a storm. I always put a sail-tie on the furled sails now as high as I can reach. I COMPLETELY understand the fear.

-Rob