MacGregorSailors.com

Have done exactly this will post pics when weather improves here.

Fitted Raymarine SPX-5 tiller drive.

The reason I went this way was my geared cable helm has up to 1/4 of a turn of slack and I felt a wheel pilot would be constantly hunting. Fitting the tiller pilot and using it like a linnier drive seem like a good idea as it is connected directly to the tiller bars off the rudders, no play. Cheaper than and easier than replacing the helm and fitting a wheel pilot.

I leave the tiller drive permanently connected and use the < > keys on the control head for most steering when not on auto or put the unit in standby and just hand steer. Steering is a little bit stiffer but not extremely so and an added benefit is the tiller drive acts as a dampener so under power the steering doesn't wander around any more.

I feel fitting was extremely easy. Epoxy wood block to side of hull, drill two holes in rudder bar and run cables done. Seeing ppl have to fabricate mounts for the s steering column etc. seemed way more complex on a wheel drive fitting

Didn't save that much $$$ over an SPX-5 wheel pilot, maybe $200 after getting the tiller bar mounting bracket but saving $$$ was not the goal.

I installed the S1 Raymarine wheel pilot on our X, with our standard stock steering wheel. The problem which moves some folks to go with a larger wheel: the ring drive mechanism is close to the size of the wheel, and if you install it, you can no longer fully grip the wheel. The drive ring housing interferes. I didn't want to obstruct the cockpit with a larger wheel, and solved the problem by making a set of bushing spacers, which allowed the ring to be mounted on the wheel spokes, with ample space for fingers gripping around the wheel. I cut the bushings out of one of those milky colored plastic cutting boards you can by at the grocery store. Just shy of a half inch thick, and perfect for the job.

I have added an upload to the mod section here are some more pics.

Hi Kadet, nice autopilot install. So am I correct in assuming that do don't have to "disengage" the tiller actuator mechanically? By switching the control head to "standby" the tiller actuator is free to move back and forth as you manually turn the helm? I agree this would seem a much neater solution than the wheel pilot. I had a SPX5 wheel pilot on a Hunter 32 and after only about 6 months the clutch which engages and disengaged the drive motor kept working loose which underway and the computer would lose control and steering.

In standby mode power is shut off to the Tiller Pilot ram but you still have to overcome the rams electric motors mechanical force, seemed a bit strange when I first did it but once you get used to the extra resistance no big deal. And as I said as an added bonus it acts as a dampener under power and stops the boat wandering all over the place. I now only hand steer while docking or in tight quarters anyhow. The tiller pilot manual actually says to put it in standby to hand steer around obstacles, then hit auto to continue, no mention of disconnecting the ram. If I was going to hand steer for a great length of time I would probably go below and disconnect it but have not found it necessary so far. I also have a BWY quick disconnect on the outboard so that load comes off the steering as well under sail.

I now consider this the number one best mod I have made to the boat. I always crew short and generally sail single handed even with some moveable ballast along for the ride

That's nice. What is that gray box thing in the third picture? Some kind of GPS thing?

BOAT wrote:That's nice. What is that gray box thing in the third picture? Some kind of GPS thing?

If you meant the 4th picture that is the SPX-5 corepack the brains of the AP

Hi Kadet, apologies for all the questions but really interested in your setup.
1) Raymarine lists the stroke range of the actuator as 10inches. Did that allow you to still get full rudder movement when turning the wheel manually or do you always disconnect the actuator when you need full turning range?
2) everywhere I look describes this as a "removable" tiller pilot so I take this to mean you are supposed to disconnect when not running on autopilot. I guess I am concerned that driving the linear actuator back and forth when steering manually combined with forces coming back from the rudders will damage the unit pretty quickly. What has been your experience?
Thanks heaps for sharing this mod.

innervations wrote:Hi Kadet, apologies for all the questions but really interested in your setup.
1) Raymarine lists the stroke range of the actuator as 10inches. Did that allow you to still get full rudder movement when turning the wheel manually or do you always disconnect the actuator when you need full turning range?
2) everywhere I look describes this as a "removable" tiller pilot so I take this to mean you are supposed to disconnect when not running on autopilot. I guess I am concerned that driving the linear actuator back and forth when steering manually combined with forces coming back from the rudders will damage the unit pretty quickly. What has been your experience?
Thanks heaps for sharing this mod.

1) I centred the actuator before fitting following the Ramarine instructions and have full lock to lock steering, and once setup you can define the travel so it can act as a rudder stop so you don't oversteer under AP.
2) Yes it is designed as a cockpit fitted removable pilot and for long periods of hand steering I would remove it. But this is not how I use my boat so for the short periods I hand steer it is no big issue, the manual even describes steering around obstacles with no mention of removing the ram, and having tried to fit it once underway I can see why, lining up that little pin requires you to move the rudder bar to the actuator as it almost impossible to pull the ram by hand. In a crowded seaway having steered around an obstacle trying to refit the ram would cause you to have to steer a pretty wild course to refit it .

With no power to the actuator in standby it is like hand turning an electric motor, yes you will add a little extra wear and tear to the gearing but the thing under power produces 85KG of force and you use it for hours on end, it is designed for a 6000kg boat so out little s hardly tax the thing. The bit of hand steering I do would be negligible to the total wear on the unit.

I have been out in 12-15 knt winds over canvassed with full main and 150 genny heeled about 30 degrees on a close reach, I normally struggle to hold the wheel against the weather helm in this situation, the AP did not appear to mind

Thanks Kadet. Most encouraging tiller version is only $1,500 on Outback Marine at the moment

innervations wrote:Thanks Kadet. Most encouraging tiller version is only $1,500 on Outback Marine at the moment

That is a good price if it includes the p70 control head paid $1800 for mine 7-8 months ago. I tried to get the old kit for $1299 but Raymarine did not have any stock left in OZ even though Whitworths were advertising it, so had to get the new model straight off the boat at top $$$

Auto pilot wheel drive or tiller.......Having fitted a Raymarine sport pilot (secondhand Ebay) can only confirm how much we like our hands free boat!!!Allows for all sorts of tasks performed which otherwise require more thought

$1500 is for the complete system but with older control head - listed on both Outback Marine and Boating Central here in Oz for $1500. System with new P70 control head is listed at $1749 at Whitworths and Outback Marine for $1714. Still going with the new P70 as it just looks way cooler

Thanks for the inform. Knew there was a way!