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My boat was brand new but the dealer did a crappy job with the barrier coat and Bottom Paint. After five months the bottom paint was washing off. The barrier coat had holidays in it. I hauled the boat at a local yard and rented Thier air tools. That's the ticket. Cleaned everything up and painted with three gallons of InterProtect. Then a gallon and a half of gold copper paint except on the transom where I used out drive paint to reduce corrosion of the motor bracket.
I doubt I would ever attempt to paint the boat on the trailer.

Ixneigh

I used an Interlux ablative that has worked beyond expectations.

Jim

Ixneigh wrote:I doubt I would ever attempt to paint the boat on the trailer.

Ixneigh

I don't have much choice. The nearest boat yard is probably 400 miles away, so I'll have to find a way to work around the trailer. It surely won't be easy. Maybe I could drive down to Sumner's shop and use his place. Probably only 7 hours away.

Sounds like the barrier coat is the way to go. I don't believe it's entirely necessary for blister prevention (the damage is done), but to keep the bottom paint secure I guess it really is.

And frankly, the blisters don't bother me at all. But I'm thinking to keep the paint adhered to a solid surface, they need to be dealt with.

Russ – Depending on how handy (and technically apt) you are, you can sand, solvent wash, and paint it on (well, over, actually) the trailer, as I did, without too much trouble at all.

I cobbled some support pieces (4X4’s, 2X4’s, a pinch bar, chain, etc) together in less time than it would take you to drive to Sum’s or a yard, and supported the hull by the bow hold-down, and the transom by two small plastic pucks (AKA Achilles heels).

The boat was supported safely and securely (or I wouldn’t have gone under it) by them up in the air several inches above the trailer, which I easily rolled back and forth to reach the entire hull with each coat, without leaving bands or patches that needed to be done separately.

No fancy tools or devices needed, and the resulting height of the hull made sanding on with my back on the driveway with arms out stretched fairly painless. When using epoxy coatings, the number of coats is not as important as the resulting mil thickness applied, which I found to be easy to confirm precisely by measuring the masking tape removed.

I did take a few pictures so I will post in the next week or two on how I did it. (Luckily, I got a "round tuit" for Christmas).

- Brian.

so I'll have to find a way to work around the trailer. It surely won't be easy.

It can be done pretty simply, just takes some cranking on the trailer jack. Lower the front of the trailer, put jack stands under the back of the boat with 2x6 to spread out the weight, crank trailer back up and you will have about 6" of clearance ove the back bunks. Do the opposite and the rear will sit on the trailer and the front off the bunks.

Here's a repost summary of what I did to apply a barrier coat while the boat stayed on the trailer:

Did it all while on the trailer. Washed the hull with cleaner and water rinse. De-waxed the hull with Interprotect Solvent Wash 202 (wear a respirator), sanded with 80 grit, and cleaned again with Solvent Wash 202 (charcoal filters are a good thing ). Masked the paint line with 1-1/2 inch 3M Painters Tape #2090 (great stuff). Hired two college-age friends for the painting and using a car mechanic's creeper (another good thing), applied 4 coats of Interprotect 2000E (alternating between grey and white) with 3/8 inch nap rollers (don't go with cheap rollers - the fibers come off). Then applied two coats of Interlux Micron Extra with Biolux (16 hours apart for the Micron Extra). When the initial painting was complete and dry, went to a boat launch and backed the boat off the trailer about 9 inches, applied a tie-down strap to the bow (VERY important as the boat is stern heavy on the trailer), and repeated the above painting process for the now exposed bunk areas. Hull is completely painted, and I'm hoping that between the epoxy and the the anti-fouling, I don't have to worry about blisters or slime . Pictures of the process are available at http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/ae32 ... 0Painting/. All in all, not too bad, particularly with strong, hired help!

Follow-up: The Micro Extra has worked great. At end of season, I use a small brush and lightly brush the surface while rinsing the hull. I put a refresh coat directly on top of the previous Micron each spring. It adheres without other preparation. Works for me!

-Randy
seacatcapt

RussMT wrote:... Sumner, your website has great info on the prep work to dewax. If I do this, it will be with the help of your information and experience. I truly appreciate all the documentation you have done for your mods...

I'll second that! I studied every single page of Sumner's website before I started cutting into my boat. A great resource.

RussMT wrote:...With a lack of a lift, I'll have to rely on the tilt of the trailer tricks mentioned many places here...

Here is a link to my post on removing the boat from the trailer and placing it on blocks.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1468


Chris.