Bruce/Claw Anchor

[mastreb]

San Diego is all sand and mud, with occasional rocks. I use a Fortress 11# along with a 7# grapnel that I send down the the rode as a kellet with a shackle. It all fits in the chain locker. The kellet stops where the rode meets the chain and holds the chain on the bottom, turning the entire kellet, chain, and anchor into the anchor. My rig has never slipped, but I've not ridden a storm out with it either. Pulls up very easily (the admiral can do it) although the grapnel usually opens and has to be closed while it's hanging over board which can be a PIA for her.

I highly recommend using a kellet with any danforth style anchor in any uncertain bottom.

[Obelix]

Hi Divecoz,

Thank you for your quick reply
Do I understand this correctly, You drilled holes in the body of the standard roller and a corresponding hole in the anchor shaft.
Then you secure the shaft with a SS-pin, thereby keeping the claw extended farther out on the roller

Obelix

[Sumner]

Do any of your guys have a Manson Supreme? We have a 25 lb. Manson along with a 22 lb. claw and use the Manson as our primary anchor now. It comes out on the top or close to it on most tests and along with the claw works on about any bottom. Saying that we have anchored well over 100 nights on the claw with no problems with the exception of maybe dragging one night about 20-30 feet. We also carry a Fortress FX-11 broke down, but have never used it.

One interesting thing is that when I made the bow rollers I had to make the one for the claw a little longer than the Supreme to keep it off the bow like you are talking about.

Here....



...the Manson is on the left and the claw on the right in the picture. Here in....



.... a more overhead shot you can see that the roller for the claw is a little longer. Also the shank for the Manson lays flat on the roller. I added a pin, maybe like what Dive is talking about to hold the shank down for the claw and keep it from rocking (left arrow).

The right arrows point to carbiners that snap on the chains to make sure the anchors don't go anywhere and they are cleated to a center bow cleat.

Here is....



....a closeup of the pin for the claw. There are more pictures here....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ng-18.html

If you are looking for an anchor consider looking at a Manson and see if you can do a test fit. They aren't cheap, but you will sleep good and considering the safety of you and the boat are pretty cheap after all.

We are really happy with our anchors and wouldn't want anything less,

Sum

Our MacGregor 26-S

Our Endeavour 37

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[Divecoz]

Just the opposite.. There are( 1 set L.R.) holes in the roller and I matched them to a new hole, I drilled in the anchor and made it... as I said just a little bigger than the roller holes and yes that SS pin holds the anchor where you want it on the roller. Here is a link to a stock roller ( different anchor) http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?viewimg=1480 Now imagine your Claw sitting there instead.. Drill right thru those existing roller holes.. Then attach a SS Pin with some safety wire so you dont loose that pin and your done...

Hi Divecoz,

Thank you for your quick reply
Do I understand this correctly, You drilled holes in the body of the standard roller and a corresponding hole in the anchor shaft.
Then you secure the shaft with a SS-pin, thereby keeping the claw extended farther out on the roller

Obelix

[Highlander]

Well here's my set-up






J

[Obelix]

Got it

Thank you, Divecoz

Obelix

[Divecoz]

Don't forget fellows ...adding the proper amount of chain makes a so so anchor hold a lot better.. My Main Anchor a Claw has 30 feet of chain.. My 2nd a Danforth has 15 feet.. I use a snubber of sorts and that takes a LOT of the Bounce out of the anchor to boat..issue.. it gives me about ? 18 inches of somewhat Gentle stretch..... Before I am Jerking on the chain and anchor... That in and of itself makes a HUGE Difference in how I sit / ride, at anchor...

[davidbourne]

Divecoz, Can you describe your "snubber"? I'm imagining a bungee or other stretchy line that absorbs the shock. I've seen docklines that do this. thanks

[robbarnes1965]

Divecoz, Can you describe your "snubber"? I'm imagining a bungee or other stretchy line that absorbs the shock. I've seen docklines that do this. thanks

Several ways to accomplish but the easy way is a length( 10-20ft) of stretchable line like anchor/dock line. With the chain out to the desired length, attach one end with a carabiner to the chain and one end to a cleat on the bow. Let the chain out a little more until the chain is slack and the "snubber" now takes the strain. The line has a little give which dampens wave action, lessening the chance of jarring the anchor free.

With an chain/anchor line combo, the line acts as a snubber anyway. I would only rig one if I was using all chain.

[Divecoz]

Robs Idea is a good one as well.. I have only needed to anchor over night in SW Florida.. Charlotte Harbor from Sanibel north to Sarasota..
I actually do use a black truckers Bungee... about 30" long. I close the 2 hooks a little so it wont fall off ( it never did in 6+ weeks ) I do hook it into the chain leaving slack in the chain , between the bungee hooks a couple feet of chin slack.. and I let out what ever rode and chain I need to.. CAUTION!
I assume Rob dug a Carabiner out of his climbing bag , he's seems to be a young athletic kind of guy.. There can be a LOT of Force put on that Carabiner.. If You Buy one for $5 or $10 ?? IMHO .....you bought a Key Chain ... Not.. a Caribiner..My Carabiners ALL have slip collars!! 30 years ago they cost from $20 to almost $50 a piece..Think about it.. when your " just" setting..... the anchor, your running the engine pretty good..

Divecoz, Can you describe your "snubber"? I'm imagining a bungee or other stretchy line that absorbs the shock. I've seen docklines that do this. thanks

[robbarnes1965]

Robs Idea is a good one as well.. I have only needed to anchor over night in SW Florida.. Charlotte Harbor from Sanibel north to Sarasota..
I actually do use a black truckers Bungee... about 30" long. I close the 2 hooks a little so it wont fall off ( it never did in 6+ weeks ) I do hook it into the chain leaving slack in the chain , between the bungee hooks a couple feet of chin slack.. and I let out what ever rode and chain I need to.. CAUTION!
I assume Rob dug a Carabiner out of his climbing bag , he's seems to be a young athletic kind of guy.. There can be a LOT of Force put on that Carabiner.. If You Buy one for $5 or $10 ?? IMHO .....you bought a Key Chain ... Not.. a Caribiner..My Carabiners ALL have slip collars!! 30 years ago they cost from $20 to almost $50 a piece..Think about it.. when your " just" setting..... the anchor, your running the engine pretty good..

Divecoz, Can you describe your "snubber"? I'm imagining a bungee or other stretchy line that absorbs the shock. I've seen docklines that do this. thanks

True about the carabiner. Any outdoor store should have good ones. Fortunately the heavy, stainless steel ones tend to be cheaper because climbers usually want the super light ones. Weight is also not such a concern on rescue gear. I have used non-locking ones for the snubber because the carabiner barely fits through the chain-link and does not move much but Murphy's law generally will apply at the worst moment.

[opie]

I love my always-grabbing and trustworthy bruce claw also. I just stow it in the stock Mac locker. It sits at an angle to the starboard inside, on top of 200' of rode to cushion it. Never had a problem. It is easy to put out in the water and easy to retrieve and no mod-time or expense. Never had anyone comment on it one way or the other. On the highway, I put it inside the boat. I also carry a 5 kg claw at the stern in a milk crate.

[ronacarme]

Our 16.5 # Claw rests, at the joinder of its fluke to its shank, on a split rubber hose clamped on the top rail of the stbd side of the bow pulpit. The fluke slopes downward and inward over the foredeck. The L-shaped shank has its foot sloping outboard and downward and its leg sloping sharply downward and inward to the shackle on the anchor line at the front end of the deck locker. The Claw is lashed to the top rail with a quick release line, It has stayed on the pulpit in 5 ft waves. It deploys by lifting up and outward away from the pulpit and dropping/lowering into the water.
Raise the jib on the tack that keeps it away from the anchor.
Ron

[Phil M]

Our 16.5 # Claw rests, at the joinder of its fluke to its shank, on a split rubber hose clamped on the top rail of the stbd side of the bow pulpit. The fluke slopes downward and inward over the foredeck. The L-shaped shank has its foot sloping outboard and downward and its leg sloping sharply downward and inward to the shackle on the anchor line at the front end of the deck locker. The Claw is lashed to the top rail with a quick release line, It has stayed on the pulpit in 5 ft waves. It deploys by lifting up and outward away from the pulpit and dropping/lowering into the water.
Raise the jib on the tack that keeps it away from the anchor.
Ron

I like the idea of perhaps protecting the top rail of the bow pulpit. I would rather not leave the anchor locker slightly open with a bruce anchor inside.

Phil M

[ronacarme]

One brief addition to my post......I notched the front lip of the deck locker lid (door?) to allow latching the lid with a bit of the anchor rode extending out of the locker and shackled to the Claw on the bow pulpit. The notch is small enuf that the closed locker lid gently clamps the rode, and thus fixedly locates the shackled end of the Claw's shank.
Ron