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Rainer,
To properly seal the deck to hull joint you need to remove the rubrail and scrape , sand the joint to fiberglass.
Look for areas were the original 5200 has a leak, scrape out the area and do a metal small brush with acitone than achole.
Than let dry completly (you should use a heat blower at the seams)
Than do a complete cover with finger at the complete joint,don't worry about it extending upper and lower joint as this is cut out after cure with a utility knife.
Install the new rubrail as previous discussed.
Trying to put 3m5200 on the excisting rubrail when it is installed is worst thing you can do.
Dave

To properly seal the hull to deck joint you will need to take

2BonC wrote:

DaveB wrote:If you do have a deck to hull leak it was because manifacture didn't seal it properly of you had a hard bump at the pileing and broke the seal.
Dave

Dave, thank You for the answer. I´m aware of all (?) the sources for bilgewater and did something against them.
As I´m not sure that I always have avoided bumps a leak between deck and hull might be the source of my bilgewater. Wouldn´t accurately sealing the rub rail against the deck cure this, can this make anything worse?
accurately
rainer

Hi all. I am about to re-bed all the hardware on my 88D with butyl tape. It leaks like a sieve when it rains.
Here is a quick way to find your leak source. Dry everything inside, even the bilges. Get out the hose and sprinkler and sit in the boat with a flashlight. you will soon find your leaks. There is a source for rolls of butyl on the macgregorowneers.com site. Failing that source contact your window repair place, mine calls it grey 440 tape.
Don't use the black butyl tape! Very, very messy!