Brakes not dis-engaging -- VERY hot!!!

[kmclemore]

Having never done anything to my bearings other than pump in some grease into the bearing buddies can anyone give me any more detailed info on how to remove and replace these bearings...and all the associated hardware?
...

Trailer Wheel Bearing Set -- Is this what I will need?

Any links to video or pictures of how this is done?

Google is your friend on this one, Jim... it's actually a pretty easy job and very well documented...

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9WdVdaLVQE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k2T79nHXgw
http://www.ehow.com/how_4898444_replace ... ailer.html
http://www.boatcando.com/newfile45.html

In terms of what bearings you need, wait until you get the old ones off then just take them, along with the old seal (grease washed or wiped mostly off, of course) down to your local auto store (NAPA, Western Auto, whatever) and they will likely have exactly what you need as they are very common bearings and seals and usually well stocked. No reason to pay We$t Marine (pirate) prices.

[Catigale]

The bearing races (hard metal rings with no rollers) seat very tightly into the wheel hubs..it is possible to knock them out with a hammer and punch (flat end, not a pointy end punch) this will take about 15 minutes per bearing race

With your long trip ahead, I would pull the wheel hub and take it a shop and have the use the right size drift and do the whole job in 30 minutes...

[c130king]

Found these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9WdVdaLVQE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtqIKTLQPuo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Bgxcy6DDDw

These videos don't show brakes. And in some cases they left the tire on. But does this look like what I should see/do?

Thanks,
Jim

[c130king]

Thanks again. You guys are very fast and very helpful. I go to YouTube for a few minutes of searching and come back and you have posted numerous links for me to review.

Now I need to start watching some videos...Good thing I don't have any "real work" to do...

[kmclemore]

The only thing I'd add to this process is to replace the bearing cap with a "Bearing Buddy" cap. You can likely get these at an auto parts store, too, buy certainly at We$t Marine. These allow you to lubricate the brakes with a pump-type grease gun, and they supply a small amount of pressure to the inside of the bearing grease area which helps prevent ingress of water which can happen when dunking a hot trailer into the water. Getting water into your grease is a good recipe for bearing failure over time.

[c130king]

Pretty sure I have "Bearing Buddies" but the caps are a little different looking. They don't slide over the top of the buddy but sort of "insert" into the buddy and cover the grease fitting. I use a screw driver to pry off this rubber cap...pump in the grease...then reinstall the cap.

My old trailer did have the bearing buddy caps like your picture.

I will look for those as well.

The instructions and videos I am seeing so far don't show any brakes. Does all of this work the same if there are brakes? After I remove the bearing buddy and the castle nut will the hub come off if there are brakes installed?

Thanks again.

You guys are why this forum is so excellent.

Cheers,
Jim

[kmclemore]

The bearing races (hard metal rings with no rollers) seat very tightly into the wheel hubs..it is possible to knock them out with a hammer and punch (flat end, not a pointy end punch) this will take about 15 minutes per bearing race

With your long trip ahead, I would pull the wheel hub and take it a shop and have the use the right size drift and do the whole job in 30 minutes...

Hmm.. I don't know, Steph. Given how much time it takes to get it down to a shop and have them do it, I would think it would take less time to just do it yourself. But maybe that's just me?!

The trick with removing and installing the races, which are a press-fit into the hub, is to use a drift (a long grade-8 [hardened] bolt will work if you don't have a proper punch) and drive them out EVENLY on each side, a little bit at a time. A few punches on one side, then shift to the other side and give it a few punches, etc., etc. until you slowly work it out. You want to avoid getting the race 'cocked' to one side in the hub which will bind it in there really tight... hence the very equal movement on both sides, making a little movement at a time on each, essentially 'wiggling' it out. Installing them is the same process in reverse... you can use the drift pin or better yet use a really big socket (the kind you use to remove nuts or bolts with a ratchet or breaker bar) that fits the end of the race nicely, if you have one.

[kmclemore]

The instructions and videos I am seeing so far don't show any brakes. Does all of this work the same if there are brakes? After I remove the bearing buddy and the castle nut will the hub come off if there are brakes installed?

Hmm... yeah, you have disk brakes... forgot about that. Yes, you'll need to unbolt and pull back the caliper before you start... not a big deal.

[Catigale]

See Kevin's note about removing the bearing race in tiny small steps above. If you get impatient ,you get the bearing twisted up in the hub and toast the hub...

Once you get the castle nut off....put newspaper under hub, pull it towards you . Lock washer ( with teeth) and thrust washer fall onto newspaper.

Baggie them into a marked bag....port, outboard bearing. Bearing cages and races do not like to be mixed up.

Now reach in and pull off the outboard bearing cage and drop into Baggie

Now the wheel hub will pull off....the inboard bearing and race will be stuck in the hub by the grease seal

[kmclemore]

Pretty sure I have "Bearing Buddies" but the caps are a little different looking. They don't slide over the top of the buddy but sort of "insert" into the buddy and cover the grease fitting. I use a screw driver to pry off this rubber cap...pump in the grease...then reinstall the cap.

Yep, I've seen those... same thing. They're a universal fit, pretty much. Clean up the old ones and use them again.

[kmclemore]

Now the wheel hub will pull off....the inboard bearing and race will be stuck in the hub by the grease seal

True. And the easy way to get that rear seal out is to simply put that drift punch through the center of the hub and tap the rear bearing evenly on both sides and that seal will pop right out, along with the bearing.

[c130king]

You guys are scaring me...



I sure hope I have 3G working at the marina this Thursday so I can scan through all of this advice as I am attempting to do this.

Jim

[Tomfoolery]

A photo would help here, but it's possible you have E-Z-Lube axle spindles. The spindles are drilled down the center with a lateral exit hole that meets it at the rear bearing. The zerk fitting is actually in the end of the axle spindle.

I'm not saying that's what you have, but from your description, it could be.

Here's a video of the greasing process showing the rubber plug inside the cap. You should be able to identify whether yours is this type from the video.

My 2-axle trailer has one of each type of axle (E-Z-Lube axle was added at a later time).

Edit: Here's a link to Dexter's literature on the E-Z Lube system. Pick the E-Z Lube option from the Trailer Axle Resources drop down. http://dexteraxle.com/resource_library_

[Tomfoolery]

Oh, and I use the old race to drive in the new race. The inner race, which is recessed into the hub, can be driven in with an old race, but it makes it easier if I grind the OD of the old race on a bench grinder so it's a little small. It just has to be a couple of thou (or more) smaller than it's original OD so it's easy to get back out. I keep one of each laying around in the tool box for this purpose.

[c130king]

A photo would help here, but it's possible you have E-Z-Lube axle spindles. The spindles are drilled down the center with a lateral exit hole that meets it at the rear bearing. The zerk fitting is actually in the end of the axle spindle.

I'm not saying that's what you have, but from your description, it could be.

Here's a video of the greasing process showing the rubber plug inside the cap. You should be able to identify whether yours is this type from the video.

My 2-axle trailer has one of each type of axle (E-Z-Lube axle was added at a later time).

Edit: Here's a link to Dexter's literature on the E-Z Lube system. Pick the E-Z Lube option from the Trailer Axle Resources drop down. http://dexteraxle.com/resource_library_

I believe I may have this. My manual says "Larger trailers are equipped with a patented lubrication system which incorporates an internally cored spindle and grease fitting. This allows the hubs to be easily greased without disassembly, and assures lubrication to the inner bearing."

And then it says:

NOTICE: It is required that once a yar, each hub be removed, and the following items visually inspected and replaced if necessary: bearings, bearing races, seals and brake components. Repack with new grease and reassemble using a new cotter pin. All work should be performed by a qualifed mechanic."