JAmes V
Kevlar and water are a bad mix, kevlar is very hygroscopic (absorbs water) and a bad use for needing strength and being wet....
looses a lot of strength and starts to streeeeeeetch.....
Centerboard removal
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waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
I was wondering the same thing...Bob Zoobricke wrote:Where can I get a new hanger? I My X is kept in the water 6 months a year and if what I'm hearing mine most likely needs to be replaced.
I couple years ago, I'd have said just call the factory. But not being the production boat and knowing it wouldn't be an M part, I doubt they'd have one. But if they do, order a few.
In my case, I took it to my uncle who owns a tool and die company. I dropped it off last night and he'll have it done today. He has commented a few times that people occassionally walk in with some part they need for a boat and can't find. I'd trying going to any local shop and walking in with it in my hand. These places are usually in industrial type areas so chances are if they don't want to do it, they'll suggest someone down the street that might.
- craiglaforce
- Captain
- Posts: 831
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:30 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
I would think that Macgregor would still provide special replacement parts like that. If they didn't it would be a dis-incentive to new buyers and no smart businessman would want that. 'course there might be a little delay if it is not stocked and they have to make one. I must that the few times I needed a part, even if it was not in the current production run (oval rudders in my case), they gave good service.
Not sure why the comments about hangers going bad from corrosion. Mine still looks fine. been sitting in salt water since '97.
But if it gets hit by lightning, or a charger is hooked up wrong and pushes amps through the metal, then all bets are off.
Not sure why the comments about hangers going bad from corrosion. Mine still looks fine. been sitting in salt water since '97.
But if it gets hit by lightning, or a charger is hooked up wrong and pushes amps through the metal, then all bets are off.
- Don T
- Admiral
- Posts: 1084
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:13 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: 95 2600 "SS OTTER" - Portland OR - Tohatsu 50 - Hull#64 (May 95)
Hello:
I just wanted to post an alternative method for removing the hanger. I loosened the nut but left it on the hanger bolt. I used a 2X4 on edge with a spacer board between it and the top of the hanger bolt. With the 2X4 under the lip of the liner/locker. I had plenty of leverage to push down on the 2X4 and the bolt went right out. The nut kept it from falling out.
I had my board out last year and my stainless cable was still intact after 9 years. However my boat is never stored in a slip.
I just wanted to post an alternative method for removing the hanger. I loosened the nut but left it on the hanger bolt. I used a 2X4 on edge with a spacer board between it and the top of the hanger bolt. With the 2X4 under the lip of the liner/locker. I had plenty of leverage to push down on the 2X4 and the bolt went right out. The nut kept it from falling out.
I had my board out last year and my stainless cable was still intact after 9 years. However my boat is never stored in a slip.
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Bob Zoobricke
- Deckhand
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 7:46 pm
- Location: New Jersey
- dclark
- First Officer
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 10:35 am
- Location: Dave Clark - Orange County, CA - 2000 26X Day Tripper
It's worth a call to MacGregor, maybe they do. I live nearby and stopped in about a year ago for something small (I don't remember what). Bill scratched his head looking uncertain. I followed him down to what was left of the X parts bins and he dug around until he found what I came for while commenting that the X stuff was starting to get scarce. I took a few minutes to grab some tangs and anything else I thought I might want. That was the last time I was there but I took that to mean most X stuff would be unavailable before long.
Some or most of it may be from electrolysis. I'm in a very large and very old marina with a lot of livaboarda all around me. I'm sure it's one of the worst places in that respect.
Some or most of it may be from electrolysis. I'm in a very large and very old marina with a lot of livaboarda all around me. I'm sure it's one of the worst places in that respect.
yes the boards are identical. on the cable you have a swaged lug which fits in the recess, and there is a bolt+nut thru the cb to attach it (this latter came loose and forced me to stay in deep water for the last few sailing days last fallMoe wrote:Do those boards that came with cables have this recess?
CB Removal
The CB on the 98 26X that I just purchased had probably never been removed until I decided to check the condition of the hanger/SS cable. After removing the nut that holds the hanger in place, I removed the sealant with a utility knife and tapped the hanger bolt under the seat with a rubber mallet. Nothing doing.
After trying several approaches from underneath the boat, I found one that worked great.
1. Use a thin nylon strap (aka old dog leash) that will easily loop around the tight area where the hinge pin rests and create a loop dropping from both sides of the hinge pin.
2. Cushion area underneath CB with old life jackets or styrofoam.
3. Slide a long 2" X 6" through the loops and be sure it extends all the way to the opposite side trailer.
4. Use foot to carefully apply downward force on 2 X 6, leveraging opposite side on bottom rail of trailer.
This worked for me after a few firm pushes after other methods had failed. It also allowed me to remove CB without leveraging off bottom of vessel.
The good news: The CB/cable assembly of this fresh water kept boat was in excellent condition after 7+ years! It looked brand new after I cleaned it.
After trying several approaches from underneath the boat, I found one that worked great.
1. Use a thin nylon strap (aka old dog leash) that will easily loop around the tight area where the hinge pin rests and create a loop dropping from both sides of the hinge pin.
2. Cushion area underneath CB with old life jackets or styrofoam.
3. Slide a long 2" X 6" through the loops and be sure it extends all the way to the opposite side trailer.
4. Use foot to carefully apply downward force on 2 X 6, leveraging opposite side on bottom rail of trailer.
This worked for me after a few firm pushes after other methods had failed. It also allowed me to remove CB without leveraging off bottom of vessel.
The good news: The CB/cable assembly of this fresh water kept boat was in excellent condition after 7+ years! It looked brand new after I cleaned it.
