MacGregorSailors.com

Dave, the adapter is Suzuki Part Number 55181-95200, and it DOES fit in the DF50 flush port. Looks like they made it large enough that you'll have to have a 5/8" hose to slip over it, to ensure enough water.

Seems to me that it needs a washer, not only to seal it, but possibly to keep it from screwing in too far and being blocked off.



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Moe (the rain stopped)

I lost my Suzuki owners guide. Dealer replaced with a Johnson guide
and as we know it is the same beast. Page 31 says "DO NOt use the
flushing port on the starboard side of the gearcase. Using this fllushing port will restrict water supply to the engine, causing damage." There is
no further mention of what it is there for.

There's no mention of using or not using that port in the Suzuki Owner's Manual. However, the instructions say to obtain a "commercially available" flushing attachment, and the drawings show an ear muff style attachment. It also notes that you have to tape over the auxiliary water input on the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate, in front of the trim tab.

Since the ear muffs I use for the Mercury fit the Suzuki just fine, that's what I'll use and the adapter will go in the parts bin.

Thank you, DeMaster. I'll go with your Johnson manual.

--
Moe

Hi,

Same here for the flush port on the Suzuki 50. Mine seems to have one but the Clymer manual and the Owners manual deny this. The flush port should only be on the DF60 and DF70. Maybe it is a 2000 model year thing.

I don't know how much use it might be since I recall reading that to use the flush port the engine should be off. Also you need to get an adapter from Suzy.

BK

Please keep us posted as to how your situation turns out. I had not considered a sensor fault since I still have a weak pee stream. Besides, who do you know that will come down and work on your boat. I am in HB and had to practically beg to make an appointment to bring my boat in. Not alot of authorized Suzuki dealers out there. Is it a Johnson guy? What model Johnson is identical to a 2000 DF50?

Too bad on the flush adapter. Doesn't sound like it was something designed for us, the owner, to use. I suppose it isn't so important when you trailer, but trying to flush with the ears when you keep the boat in a slip is marginal at best. Maybe I'll revist the big trash can idea. BTW, nothing wrong with flushing with the motor not running as long as you can get the water through with some pressure (that's how the MST Guardian systems work and I believe that is how the bigger 60hp+ Suzuki's work). If I had known before I bought it might have convinced me to buy the 60hp just for that alone.

Theo wrote: ... Please keep us posted as to how your situation turns out. I had not considered a sensor fault since I still have a weak pee stream. Besides, who do you know that will come down and work on your boat. I am in HB and had to practically beg to make an appointment to bring my boat in. Not a lot of authorized Suzuki dealers out there. Is it a Johnson guy? What model Johnson is identical to a 2000 DF50?

Regarding the sensor problem - I think it's unrelated to the indicator stream problem. The sensor is causing "false overheat" warnings? If you also have a indicator stream problem, it could be a "real overheat" warning.

Regarding Suzuki and OMC, I recall some details from my research when buying my 2000 outboard. The Suzuki mid-range outboards, from 40 hp to 70 hp have been basically the same motors since 1998. During the 2000 model year (perhaps from '99 to '01) OMC was rebadging Suzukis as Evinrude. But numerous defects in Evinrude's larger 2-stroke lines with FICHT injection system were causing fires, and total boat losses that purportedly bankrupted the whole parent company, OMC.

Since OMC began remarketing their brands (maybe in 2003 ?) their ETEC injection replaces FICHT, and the mid-range Evinrude brand is strictly 2-stroke with ETEC injection. OMC are again selling Suzukis, but now rebadged as Johnson. It seems that a Johnson dealer "should be" equipped to work on either a Suzuki or Evinrude mid-range from the relevant years, but that doesn't mean they "will" work on others.

My experience has been that they refuse to work on anything but their "authorized" brand. At the prices they charge I'm truly puzzled that they turn down business. It must be plenty lucrative even when they restrict to their brand and STILL make you bring the boat in. (Ka-CHING)! Guess they must occasionally do "house calls" but I'd be nervous about the cost.

Theo, I sent you a PM. The dealer here in Costa mesa is backed up for a month. Do you want to meet this mobil marine mechanic on Thursday, 9am, at my boat to discuss your problem with him?

Hi Guys,

I think I might be making progress. I already changed the impeller on my water pump and the thermostat last December or January. I am suspecting a host of other problems. None of them pleasant or cheap to fix. Worst case is that my water passages are severely corroded and the engine needs to be disassembled. I am trying numerous other things first, starting with a course of salt away and changing my gas.

I dumped my gas and got some fresh gas and added some fuel additive from Boaters World. I also picked up a SaltAway kit. Just to be sure I pulled the bottom end off again and checked the impeller. No problems there. When I started the engine she ran much smoother. New gas I suspect. I ran the salt away through and thought I noticed a better flow out he pee hole. Far from perfect though. According to the SaltAway directions, I turned off the engine after it was frothing. They say to try 4 to 6 courses but to wait 24 hours between them. Will run it again tomorrow.

Will have to take it from there. If this doesn't work I might need to call BK's Mechanic. I shudder at the cost though.

I heard a rumor that there is a way to run Lime Away or something through the engine. Has anybody tried that?

Theo

I poured a gallon of white vinegar into a wash tub of water and placed in under the lower unit last fall to try and rinse it out a bit. Nothing special happened that I could tell. I was actually able to do it while the boat was in the slip. First I put the washtub under the prop and then lowered the motor while pouring hose water (and the vinegar) into the tub. Stopped when I had about 2 inched of freeboard on the washtub. Then started the motor in neutral of course and ran it for about 5 minutes.

I think i am in the same boat! I called Browns Point to order the water pump (I also changed it about 8 months ago, it has less than 15 hours on it) the person i spoke to (Gorge i think) told me to try the following. "Remove the small cover from the pee hole (just snaps in) and flush with water for a short time then start the motor, leave the pee hole cover off and see what comes out." he said to try it a couple of times if it works i am fine no need to do the pump. he also told me that the flow from the hole is before the thermostat. so always make sure the flow is strong or it will damage the motor.

The mechanic came and replaced my badly corroded sensor. Mine came off but he warned me that many times the corrosion is so bad they break off at the head which is what happened to Dave Clark's when he went to work on it after he did mine. He has to drill out Dave's sensor. Also, Dave's themostat was very bad and has to replaced so I think that should take care of his overheating problem too.
I mentioned this site and that one of our members is in Curacao and has problems getting parts and info on his Suzuki engine.

Doesnt sound like your overheating then? its just the sensor? Is this a big job, hard to do?

There are 2 heat sensors. The one that gets all the corrosion is behind the shield cover and next to the engine computor. The other one he checked but he thought it would be OK as it turned out to be. That one looked new. It looked simple to me but of course a Suzuki factory trained mechanic would make anything look easy when he is doing it. Also, the corrosion on Dave's sensor was very bad and now has to be drilled out. He is soaking the threads for a day so he can reverse the screw easier. He will tap into the old sensor and get it out that way. The sensor was $27 and $60 to come over so $87. Not bad, I now do not have to de-rig, take it over to the shop which is backed up for 1 month until April 25th and then rig again. I am very happy.

H*LL of a deal, Bob!
If he made a visit in LA for only $60, then he obviously was able to avoid any freeway time & congestion, right??? I'll need to call my local NorCal Suzi dealers and see if they do house calls. I'm almost sure the answer will be ....

Hi Guys,

Just want to weigh in that I had the pleasure of meeting BK and his mechanic Rolf this morning. BK seems to be a really nice guy and I look forward to hopefully do some cruising with him if I ever get my Suzy running properly again.

Rolf seems to be the real deal. I have had the displeasure of numerous mechanics of one sort or another insult my intelligence but Rolf seems to know his stuff and more. If I am unable to solve my problem in the next few days I wil be giving him a call. A fantasic resource if you are in the LA/OC area. As BK mentioned our local dealer might or might not allow you to bring your boat in depending on how backed up he is.

As far as the thermostat goes, it is relatively easy to get to and should be at the start list of any troubleshooting when you have an overheating problem. I pulled mine out and found it to be stuck partially open.

Rich, fancy meeting you here. I know you started your own thread, but for some reason we are all here now. Have you checked your thermostat? Have you tried the SaltAway? I am noticing some improvement doing the SaltAway course. They recommend you run their product through the engine, then wait 24 hours and do it again. They recommend you do this 4 to 6 times. I am on day 2 now and am noticing some improvement. I really hope this fixes my problem. Wanna go sailing!