MacGregorSailors.com

Has anyone here tried the Piranha prop?

Easy to fix on the water, no damage to the lower end. You can reblade to test pitch and diameter as much as you want with no charge. (except shipping) They will trade your blades out as many times as you want.

I like the idea of changing it out for pitch. Do you have a link for them?

RussMT wrote:I like the idea of changing it out for pitch. Do you have a link for them?

http://piranha.com

I have been running the Piranha prop for about 4 years and think they are great. Granted, I only have a Honda 30hp hanging from my 2000 so my top speed is sh*t compared to most but for the cost and ease of swapping or replacing blades it can't be beat.

I noticed no difference in performance between the composite prop and the stock aluminum and with all of the obstacles (dead heads, oyster bar and shifting sand bars) here in NE Florida it has paid for itself more than once. The floating prop wrench is great and I use a heavy duty ring ding to keep it locked on. All i
I do is jump over the side, swap parts and go. I have two sets of blades and alternate based on my load and mission objectives. It also gives me an emergency back up and I keep the aluminum prop on board as a back up.

There was a money back guarantee when purchased so it was a no brainer at the time. The reps were great and helped me pick the right blades for my boat and even called a few weeks later to see how I was doing.

I am away from the boat now but will be back in Fl next week. PM me if you want any more info.

John

Props are sacrificial. Stick with aluminum. Plastic breaks too easily and shatters when it does, whereas aluminum will bend and can be returned to useful with a pair of channel locks.

When Stainless hits a rock, the prop doesn't bend nearly as easily. So guess where the shock goes? That's right, into the hub spline and lower unit. You're transmitting that force into your very expensive to repair lower unit as opposed to just eating it on the prop.

A new Evinrude 13.75x13 is $120. I carry my damaged original as a spare onboard.

Just consider props to be wear items and stick with aluminum as the near perfect material for all the various factors. They are even somewhat sacrificial in case you let your zincs go, the prop should preferentially corrode next (although the lower unit case is also AL).

or lose the props all together and go with a jet http://outboardjets.com/

yukonbob wrote:or lose the props all together and go with a jet http://outboardjets.com/

My fishin' buddy had an 18' metal boat with a jet prop that we use it to fish salmon in the Fraser River, at certain times of the year there is so much silt that the sandbars constantly change and sometimes you fine yourself in only a few inches of water. The jet is really cool - but my buddy had lots of trouble with the turbine.

Wind Chime wrote:

yukonbob wrote:or lose the props all together and go with a jet http://outboardjets.com/

My fishin' buddy had an 18' metal boat with a jet prop that we use it to fish salmon in the Fraser River, at certain times of the year there is so much silt that the sandbars constantly change and sometimes you fine yourself in only a few inches of water. The jet is really cool - but my buddy had lots of trouble with the turbine.

Mine sucks gravel and sand no problem, just spits them out the other side. Did the main bearings on it this year and at 450 hours of abuse they looked like they were a week old. If he hasn't switched to the stainless sleeve and impeller its worth the extra bucks.

yukonbob wrote:

Wind Chime wrote:

yukonbob wrote:or lose the props all together and go with a jet http://outboardjets.com/

My fishin' buddy had an 18' metal boat with a jet prop that we use it to fish salmon in the Fraser River, at certain times of the year there is so much silt that the sandbars constantly change and sometimes you fine yourself in only a few inches of water. The jet is really cool - but my buddy had lots of trouble with the turbine.

Mine sucks gravel and sand no problem, just spits them out the other side. Did the main bearings on it this year and at 450 hours of abuse they looked like they were a week old. If he hasn't switched to the stainless sleeve and impeller its worth the extra bucks.

He gave up on constant repairs last year and sold the entire rig, we're now back to my 12' aluminum flat bottom and 4hp chipping props

I agree, Stainless props will give you about 1/2 knot but if you hit anything will probably damage your lower unit before it bends the blades.
Aluminum Props usually brake off or bend without lower unit damage.
Hubs on most Aluminum Props will brake off to protect the lower unit.
If they do usually you can get back at 4-5 mph, faster than that will spin the hub.
Dave

mastreb wrote:Props are sacrificial. Stick with aluminum. Plastic breaks too easily and shatters when it does, whereas aluminum will bend and can be returned to useful with a pair of channel locks.

When Stainless hits a rock, the prop doesn't bend nearly as easily. So guess where the shock goes? That's right, into the hub spline and lower unit. You're transmitting that force into your very expensive to repair lower unit as opposed to just eating it on the prop.

A new Evinrude 13.75x13 is $120. I carry my damaged original as a spare onboard.

Just consider props to be wear items and stick with aluminum as the near perfect material for all the various factors. They are even somewhat sacrificial in case you let your zincs go, the prop should preferentially corrode next (although the lower unit case is also AL).

master wrote: A new Evinrude 13.75x13 is $120. I carry my damaged original as a spare onboard.

So Mastreb, is the 13.75 X 13 what you have installed on your E-Tec 60? I have always wondered what prop works best on those engines. If an E-Tec 60 swings that then maybe Yamaha 70 should swing a 14X13 but I currently have a 14X11, Maybe I should try a 14X13?

Terry wrote:

master wrote: A new Evinrude 13.75x13 is $120. I carry my damaged original as a spare onboard.

So Mastreb, is the 13.75 X 13 what you have installed on your E-Tec 60? I have always wondered what prop works best on those engines. If an E-Tec 60 swings that then maybe Yamaha 70 should swing a 14X13 but I currently have a 14X11, Maybe I should try a 14X13?

It is what I run on my boat, yes. We're lightly loaded, with no heavy mods, and get the performance you would expect from a 60hp.