MacGregorSailors.com

Well, I said I would follow up on how this counter has held up, and here it is. First I need to upload the lost photos. Here's what the counter looked like when it was nearly finished.



Here's what the counter looks like five years later.



It looks ok from a distance, but here's the crack between the stove and the sink that showed up within the first year.



On the other side of the stove, there are cracks starting. You can also see that the wood is blackening from the heat of the stove.



My original plan with this was to try it out for a while, confirm we liked the layout, and have a counter cut to cap it off. I've got some plans to discuss and I'll put each topic in its own post in this thread.

1. The pine didn't hold up. I'm upgrading to a piece of 1/2" marine plywood. I only have to finish the corners where the fiddles won't cover the layers of plywood. I purchased some iron-on birch like this https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Supply-Preg ... 253&sr=8-5 to finish the edges. If you're familiar with the original counter, it has a lip around the edge. You can see it in this picture.



I set my counter on top of this. I need to check, but I think I have 1/4" to 1/2" under my plywood that I can use for some reinforcement. Should I be worried about the marine plywood cracking like the pine did?

2. I'm worried about the heat from the stove. I know it's worked for 5 years, but I really think I dodged a bullet. I can space the wood back a little more, but I don't think it will be enough. Here's a view of the bottom of the stove in the counter.





I'm thinking of adding some kind of flashing. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Broan-SP3004-Bac ... 41&sr=1-23 Does anyone have any suggestions?

I used 3/4 inch Birch marine plywood as a countertop with the Wallas stove/heater. It has been 2 years with no problems. I used Tung Oil rather than stain and varnish.

3. I tried to use a manual pump faucet. I bought a new one when we rebuilt the counter and I've never liked it. It's always losing its prime and even when it works we have two people washing dishes. One to wash and one to pump. It's really frustrating. So we're going to add this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL ... UTF8&psc=1 Seaflo 12V DC 1.2 GPM 35 PSI electric pump, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QF ... UTF8&psc=1 stainless faucet, and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ ... UTF8&psc=1 G1/2 Female Thread Pipe to 10mm Barb adapter. I haven't figured out where I'm going to install the pump yet. Our current water storage is one of these https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Product ... 14&sr=8-19 5 Gallon collapsible bags. It works OK and its cheap, but I'd be OK with an upgrade. Does anyone have a water system that they are really proud of that I could copy?

rsvpasap wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:59 pm I used 3/4 inch Birch marine plywood as a countertop with the Wallas stove/heater. It has been 2 years with no problems. I used Tung Oil rather than stain and varnish.

That looks great. Have you ever taken the Wallas stove out to see if your counter has any blackening like mine?

Where is your exhaust? Mine's too low and I get water in it when we sail even moderately hard.

I briefly removed the stove a couple of months ago because I got water in the exhaust line from being in waves that were just too much. It is the only time I have ever gotten water in the exhaust line. There was no charring on the countertop wood.



I don't have it, but there is a drain loop that you can install in the exhaust line. I'm pretty sure it's intended to drain condensation, not seawater, nonetheless, it's a drain. The dealer cautioned me that getting seawater up into the stove could be fatal to the unit.

https://scanmarineusa.com/product-categ ... m-options/

C Buchs wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:43 pm (1) ... Should I be worried about the marine plywood cracking like the pine did?

Not at all. Solid wood in the transverse direction is relatively weak. Even professional made butcher blocks fail like this in those thin areas. I've seen where they drilled hole transversely all the way through (24" worth) and use a threaded rod to hold them together. Any plywood won't have that problem since some of the layers run the grain in your transverse direction.

C Buchs wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:49 pm 2. I'm worried about the heat from the stove. I know it's worked for 5 years, but I really think I dodged a bullet. I can space the wood back a little more, but I don't think it will be enough. Here's a view of the bottom of the stove in the counter.





I'm thinking of adding some kind of flashing. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Broan-SP3004-Bac ... 41&sr=1-23 Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would use something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Union-Corrugat ... ng/3499742
Aluminum is a FAR better heat conductor. The radiant heat from the stove would hit the aluminum in whatever spot, be conducted very quickly throughout the sheet while dissipating. I'd imagine even several inches away from your charred area's, you'd be able to touch the sheet aluminum without getting burned. Stainless is not as good a conductor, but is more commonly used because it is far stronger and holds up better in "cosmetic" area of kitchens being cleaned all the time. Under your cabinet, you'll never see it or be cleaning it. Besides, its cheaper and far easier to bend and cut with just plain (sturdy) scissors. I imagine you could start the flashing on top of the counter top, something like this:



The edges will be sharp especially where you cut it. You can bend over the edge and fold it back on itself to keep you from cutting yourself on it if reaching underneath inside the cabinet.

C Buchs wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:03 pm 3. I tried to use a manual pump faucet. I bought a new one when we rebuilt the counter and I've never liked it. It's always losing its prime and even when it works we have two people washing dishes. One to wash and one to pump. It's really frustrating. So we're going to add this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL ... UTF8&psc=1 Seaflo 12V DC 1.2 GPM 35 PSI electric pump, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QF ... UTF8&psc=1 stainless faucet, and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ ... UTF8&psc=1 G1/2 Female Thread Pipe to 10mm Barb adapter. I haven't figured out where I'm going to install the pump yet. Our current water storage is one of these https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Product ... 14&sr=8-19 5 Gallon collapsible bags. It works OK and its cheap, but I'd be OK with an upgrade. Does anyone have a water system that they are really proud of that I could copy?

Have you done a search using "water bag", "water tank"? I'd think you'd find hundreds and most all will be proud of their handiwork. (Justifiably so)

My two cents... I used the same bag you have for many years. I'm in the process of re-doing my whole boat and going pretty higher-end on many things (MX series of threads). I contemplated putting in hard tanks (20 gallons worth). I haven't fully committed to any design yet. I think you need to factor in how YOU use it. Someone filling up at a slip might suggest one design while if you fill up at home with a garden hose before driving to a landing a totally different design might be better. Do you beach the boat near campsites and need to lug the water to the boat from some faucet?... another design... Just saying.

I'm actually considering creating bins that will hold those same 5 gallon bags you have instead of the hard tanks or big 20 gallon bladders. The reasons for not using others:

1. With the hard tanks, you have to have an air inlet. Just another hose run to someplace higher in the boat.
2. If they're too big to carry, you'll have to have some water filling method
3. Either carry water to them and fill them inside the boat. Yeah spills happen!
4. High-end method would be a fill port on the topside and have to run a hose to the tanks inside - Big project.

The reasons I've come up using multiples of that same 5 gallon bags

1. You can fill them outside, take advantage of the built-in valve and carry them in and hook your hoses up.
2. Because they collapse while being used, they don't need an air inlet hose.
3. Having multiples bags and the entire system sealed. You can selectively close off valves.
4. And even if you leave all valves open, water can come from any and all without worry of one emptying and letting air into the supply line.
5. Easily replaceable from any Walmart, Amazon, camp store, etc.
6. Easily take them out at the end of the season, let drain and air out in the off-season.
7. Dirt cheap.

Again... my 2 cents worth. Others, with more experience hopefully will weigh-in and help me also decide which way to go.

C Buchs wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:03 pm 3. I tried to use a manual pump faucet. I bought a new one when we rebuilt the counter and I've never liked it. It's always losing its prime and even when it works we have two people washing dishes. One to wash and one to pump. It's really frustrating. So we're going to add this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL ... UTF8&psc=1 Seaflo 12V DC 1.2 GPM 35 PSI electric pump, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QF ... UTF8&psc=1 stainless faucet, and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ ... UTF8&psc=1 G1/2 Female Thread Pipe to 10mm Barb adapter. I haven't figured out where I'm going to install the pump yet. Our current water storage is one of these https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Product ... 14&sr=8-19 5 Gallon collapsible bags. It works OK and its cheap, but I'd be OK with an upgrade. Does anyone have a water system that they are really proud of that I could copy?

That's the same pump that I use. It's a bit loud (I mean a LOT loud) when it runs so it needs to be buried somewhere in the depths, but even so it's very obvious, even to people on the dock. If I was going to do it again I'd research a quieter pump. The fiberglass in the Mac is just too thin and doesn't block the sound.

I have a Plastimo 100L collapsible water tank. Good quality product, but the connections are a little difficult to properly seal, and the location of the connections is a bit inconvenient. I put the inlet fill valve on the galley top and just run a hose down there.

Starscream wrote: ↑Thu Jan 14, 2021 5:04 am I out the inlet fill valve on the galley top and just run a hose down there.

That's a GREAT idea. Hadn't thought of that one.

Shurflo Whisper King, 2 gpm, 30 psi, 5.5 amps max.
I don't think they make this model any more, but I'm sure they have a newer version with a new marketing name. Its primary selling point is being quiet. I can attest it is very quiet. We had it up in the front bins under the v-berth and sleeping in the rear, if it cycled, it never was that noticeable.

It might be standard features on pumps (I don't know) but three things you should look for:
(1) Self priming
(2) Able to run dry
(3) Pump activation based on pressure drop - so you don't have to use a switch to use the water.

You might want to ask... or I'll try...

Can we get one of the nice moderators to break this water tank / water pump out into its own topic? A lot of experienced people might have bypassed this thread since its about a Wallas Stove. It my get more/better feedback as its own topic?

Thanks

rsvpasap wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:31 pm I briefly removed the stove a couple of months ago because I got water in the exhaust line from being in waves that were just too much. It is the only time I have ever gotten water in the exhaust line. There was no charring on the countertop wood.



I don't have it, but there is a drain loop that you can install in the exhaust line. I'm pretty sure it's intended to drain condensation, not seawater, nonetheless, it's a drain. The dealer cautioned me that getting seawater up into the stove could be fatal to the unit.

https://scanmarineusa.com/product-categ ... m-options/

That drain loop is an excellent find! My exhaust is in the same spot as yours. I've never seen the drain loop before. I found this in the manual:



It mentions using it to "remove splash water". It also says "it is possible to install a drainage lock to the exhaust pipe of the hull lead-through". I wonder if it would be more compact to add the drain to my through-hull instead of purchasing this piece. There really isn't a lot of room. I'll have to go over to the boat today and take a look.

Jeff