easy boat wax

A forum for discussing topics relating to MacGregor Powersailor Sailboats
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Carl Noble wrote:I was talking about the black gelcoat stripe where the windows are at on the deck not the rub rail.
Ahhh.. I see.. yes..

Well with that, I'd use conventional automotive 'Polishing Compound' - get it in your local auto store - Dupont is a good brand. Mask off the windows to prevent scratching them, and then make a thick pad of soft cotton cloth... dampen it, rub it into the compound, and then use elbow power to rub a small area of black fiberglass at a time. Rub each area until completely dry, and buff it off with a clean cloth - then move to the next small area, continuing till done. Keep turning up a new surface on the rubbing pad with each new area.

Alternatively, you can use a power buffer, but *please* practice on a 'junk' piece of fiberglass unless you're very experienced with a power buffer, since it does take skill to keep the buffer from 'digging in' and causing 'burns' on the surface... and they're really hard to fix once the damage is done.

If polishing compound is too 'soft' and your level of surface decay is too deep to be polished clean with it, then I'd use 'Rubbing Compound' first - that's a more agressive polish - using the same method as above... then follow that up with the Polishing Compound, again, with the same method.

If neither of those does the job - or it's taking forever with the rubbing compound - then I'd back up to using 1000 grit wet-sanding paper first (you could use 800 if you can't find 1000, but the higher is much preferred) - going very carefully, wrapping the paper around a wet, square sponge and removing as little 'black' as possible - and then follow up with rubbing compound, then polishing compound, as above.

Once the surface is shiny again, then finish the job with whatever wax you want/like.
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aya16
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Post by aya16 »

Kmc by junk piece of fiberglass do you mean your BUDDIES X? jUST KIDDING HONEST DIDNT MEAN IT AH SORRY AHEAD OF TIME, PASS THE MELOX PLEASE
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Carl Noble
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Post by Carl Noble »

I think I found a good solution. After trying many different color restorers I tried using a product called Novus Plastic Polish #2. It polished the black stripe to a very good gloss and was real easy to use. It took three applications to get a good shine but no hard rubbing was needed and I also applied it to the windows and it removed the fine scratches from them. I will try to post a picture I took of the difference tomorrow. I plan on putting a coat of wax on it tomorrow. Last year I used some auto wax that I had in the garage and it didn,t hold up at all. Anybody have a favorite wax they like to use?
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Carl Noble wrote:I think I found a good solution. After trying many different color restorers I tried using a product called Novus Plastic Polish #2.
Yes, Carl, that stuff is basically Polishing Compound, perhaps a bit less agressive, but virtually the same stuff, and includes some silicones to make the plastic shine, too (don't need this if you'll be using wax after).
Carl Noble wrote:Last year I used some auto wax that I had in the garage and it didn,t hold up at all. Anybody have a favorite wax they like to use?
I like "Rain Dance" paste wax, but I've also had good success with "Starbrite" as well as Nu Finish and Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow.
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argonaut
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Post by argonaut »

Do you really wax the non-skid?
I'd like to put something on it to seal it from dirt and ick.
Surf wax sounds like a good idea, water-resistant but sticky.
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Jeff S
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Post by Jeff S »

argonaut wrote:Do you really wax the non-skid?
I'd like to put something on it to seal it from dirt and ick.
Surf wax sounds like a good idea, water-resistant but sticky.
I think surf wax would catch the dirt and "ick". Nothing worse than waxing a surfboard then letting the wax touch the sand- it becomes glued to the board. The warmer out it gets the gooier the wax becomes and the more it sticks to things (or vice versa). It would be decent traction though if you could stand the ugly mess it would make.

I am not sure if surf wax protects against UV either, it is simply a grip. Normal boat/auto wax would make the non skid areas more slick when wet. I plan to leave them alone. If I keep the boat long enough and the non skid areas are deteriorating I think I would paint over them with non-skid deck paint.

Jeff S
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Don T
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Post by Don T »

Hello:
I use Meguiars #6 cleaner wax. I put it on with the buffer and my black stripes look like new. A couple of times a year I do the entire outside surface (incl cockpit and pedestal). I used it inside after my notorious cat caper or whenever it gets looking dull and scratched. Goes on in one step, not a lot of work if you keep it up. Works great at polishing the water spots off of the windows too. Although, I go back with Meguires Mirror Glaze to remove swirl marks and static. I never liked any of those soft surface polymer coatings. They look great at first but they they don't hold up and are tough to deal with or remove later. I guess it reminds me of used car salesmen who spray clear laquer all over the engine of a used car cuz' it makes it look new............until you start driving it. I figure if I ever polish through the gel, black or white, I will have to shoot it with Copon epoxy paint.
I am real curious how Erik's boat looks after a while, maybe these new products are better.
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Carl Noble
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Post by Carl Noble »

On the non skid I used a product that I learned about on this board and at sailnet. It's made by Aurora http://www.auroramarine.com/ and is called Sure Step. I also used their products called Boat Clean and Boat Scrub that they recommend to clean the top decks. The cleaning products worked great but the Sure Step didn't get much of a shine like their advertisment says. I will find how well its lasts this season. Supposedly all you have to do is spray the deck and the dirt and debris will hose off.
There was not enough of the Sure Step for the entire boat so I did not use it in any of the cockpit areas. I have since learned that Boat US has a simalar product called Tract Wax and I think I will try that in the cockpit.
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Carl Noble
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Post by Carl Noble »

I'm going to try a insert a photo of my half dull / half shiny black stripe. It turned out real nice and shiny.


Image
Mark Prouty
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Post by Mark Prouty »

I want to buff out some scratches on the side of my boat. Do you think this product would work for that? Should I rent a buffer and use a 3M buffing compound? I wonder if NewGlass 2 would work after this application. :?

NOVUS No.2
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MAC26X
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Post by MAC26X »

Carl, the black stripe looks great. I used Poliglow on my hull sides after cleaning and lightly sanding with 600 grit. It looks good. I didn't have time to do the top sides or cockpit yet. Hopefully it will hold up well and make it easier to clean off the bird dung. I only spent a few hours doing cleanup, sanding, and applying about 7 coats to the hull sides.
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Mark Prouty wrote:I want to buff out some scratches on the side of my boat. Do you think this product would work for that? Should I rent a buffer and use a 3M buffing compound? I wonder if NewGlass 2 would work after this application. :?

NOVUS No.2
Mark, I wouldn't use the Novus with a buffer. Their instructions seem to say to use hand-buffing. Generally, buffing and polishing compounds are either made for hand buffing or for machine buffing, and one really shouldn't be used for the other or else they may be either less effective or risk 'burning' the surface.

Any good automotive buffing product should work just fine on fiberglass gel. For power buffing a couple of good brands are Meguiars and 3M - I usually use Meguiars. Here is a good article on some of their marine products.

Whatever you use to polish and restore the finish, let your last steps be [EDIT - Add: "a thorough cleaning and then a"] final polish with a fresh polishing bonnet and "Meguiar's Mirror Glaze"... that stuff completely eliminates swirl marks and leaves a beautiful gloss.

(BTW, here's a couple of tips - I mark my bonnets with a Sharpie marker on the back, noting the compound used - that way I don't end up mixing compounds on the same bonnet so swirl marks are kept to a minimum. Also, when you're done with them, shampoo them with Dawn dish soap - bonnets may be used over and over again if cared for this way.)
Last edited by kmclemore on Wed Jun 15, 2005 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
awolfe
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Post by awolfe »

I have a question for everyone... I used the Polyglow Kit recommended on this list. I am VERY happy with the results. Everyone says my boat looks brand new. Its only been two weeks though, so I'll let everyone know if I do NOT get the lasting results they claim... But I gotta' say, the black has never shined this good since I bought the boat new in '98! Nothing has ever worked this well.

My question is this: I have one area about 10-12 inches long on one section of the black that has very tiny white dots - like small freckles- that I could not get off before applying the Polyglow. It seems that the black gel coat was applied too thin.. and is wearing off letting the white gelcoat show through :? . Is that possible? Anyone else with this problem or ideas on what it may be? That area is just as shiney as the rest, but looks lighter in color because of the tiny white dots...

Thanks,
Tom
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Daves_knot_here
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Post by Daves_knot_here »

Tom (Awolfe),
I also have a 98X that has a lot of oxidized surface. Some questions for you:
1) How did you prep the surface before application of Polyglow?
2) How many coats did you apply?
3) Did you do the no-slip areas?
4) Did you apply it to windows?

Thanks,
Dave
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Post by awolfe »

QUESTIONS:
1) How did you prep the surface before application of Polyglow?
2) How many coats did you apply?
3) Did you do the no-slip areas?
4) Did you apply it to windows?


Dave,
ANSWERS:
1) Just followed directions. Used their "PREP" formula and "scratchy pad" they provide in the kit. Then lightly sanded black areas w/ 800 wet/dry very lightly. Its easy, no compounding, no buffers or sanders.
2)5, as recommended. But it only needed 3. It just wipes right on.
3)Only in between the windows on the black part(but its not slippery-I may put it on the nonskid next time)
4)No, but where I accidently got it on the plastic, I see no effect...

This stuff really shines!
Tom,
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