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Seahouse, Do you know any of the specs for the transom? or where I could get ahold of them? confluence

Sorry, I don't know of any details on the transom, other than to say it is solidly built. Tip the motor up on the trailer, grab the skeg (for maximum leverage) and lift up and push down with all your might and see how much deflection (none) happens in the transom (or step on the anti-cavitation plate with the motor down) to confirm this for yourself.

Direct measurement and templating (e.g. cardboard) is fairly easy from the outside, but not so easy from the inside, but not impossible. Acrobatics can be fun.

In the past I have reinforced power boat transoms to take larger motors than they were designed for, and I'm certain that in them the last place that hull structural failure will be happening is at the transom, lol. Not that difficult to do.

Passing stainless mounting bolts through angle iron shaped and made as long as will fit on the interior, spreading the load over a large area to prevent crushing of the interior laminate layers (and stress cracking at the edges of the plates) and sealing so that water intrusion is prevented will itself strengthen the transom and give a good solid attachment at the same time.

Great ideas THANK YOU. Any other and all comments welcomed
Now off to get the angles and find the right bracket. confluence

confluence wrote:Grady,
taking into account what you said about the center of gravity. Do you think it would help off set the bracket if i used the forward flotation hold for fresh water tank ?
( keeping the foam in the boat of course ) confluence

For your boat to sail as fast as possible you need to keep you CG correct. You do not want your transom low in the water or out of the water. Not sure about your model but with the S with the boat sitting static the transom only needs to be in water 1/2 inch or so. With you moving the mass farther away from the center you will affect your tacking but for crusing that not a real issue.