ris wrote:We looked into the bay star but you need a motor well that is at least 16 inches wide in order to tilt the motor or you need a hydronic jack plate to raise the motor before tilting. The 2003 X does not have a wide enough motor well. Check out the required motor well width. You can never do too much reasearch before doing something to your boat.
We have hand steered our boat over 3000 miles on this trip we are on. We did put new rotary steering before we started the trip.
I have Telefex's Seastar hydraulic system installed on Chameleon with no modifications to the well or motor. Absolutely love it!
Just a little update. This weekend I was really trying to characterize the steering with the rudders tied up very well (so that they don't slump when turning). This made a big difference, but I still experience some initial "static friction" at planing speeds. Once I overcome that friction it's easier to steer but it's still a one hander with some muscle - definitely not a one finger effort.
So, will I get any meaningful improvement if I replace the steering with a new rotary system? I will also admit the amount of slop in the steering started to drive me nuts this weekend so if a new system would reduce that it would be an added bonus
I noticed a very significant steering improvement when I replaced the then 14 year old original R&P steering with a rotary system. The effort difference is two hands vs one finger.
Most Mac's have Rack and Pinion which is a single cable that push-pulls the starboard side rudder lever (under the pit). But a Rotary system has two cables (pull-pull).... Does the second one go on the Port side rudder lever or is it connected up in another way?
I don't know what you mean about a rotary system having two cables.
Both a R & P system and rotary system have a single cable that leads to the transom. I have had both on my , currently a rotary system.
I am aware of dual cable rotary steering systems for larger boats and higher HP applications than a Mac.
I don't understand why Neo is wanting a dual cable system for an .
Hi All,
Does anyone have any photo's of their Rotary Helm fitted in their / console?
I'm having LOTS of fitting issues with my new Dual cable Rotary (UFlex T72FC) into my console and it looks like I'll need to cut new holes and move the Rev counter up.
I'd really like to see how others have accomplished this (even with a single cable Rotary helm) .... so some photos of the inside of the console would be a big help.
At this stage I most likely will machine a new helm box out of HDPE or equivalent. I have the tools to cut the 6 sides then route a groove and rabbit joint for assembly. I have round over cutters for my wood shaper so I can radius all the edges like the OEM. The sides will be removable like the present design. Everything will machine fit and be assembled with stainless screws. I haven't worked out the measurements as yet. The box will have to be taller with the wheel shaft higher in order to raise the Rotech gear housing vertically. If you install the Rotech on the OEM helm box the gear housing just clears the binnacle tube and there is not enough clearance for the cable to bend in an arc before entering the tube.
Neo, my boat is still in the drive so I checked the oem wheel position relative to the binnacle box. Thewheel plastic cover collar is approximately 1in below the bevel. I don't think you could add a cover plate over the wheel hole and remount the Rotech and have enough distance from the Rotech gear housing and binnacle tube to bend the cable. The other issue for me is my motor controller is internal so the helm box is to narrow. Overall my options are to build a new box so the bevel point is approximately 2in. higher. The box could be built to the same height as the OEM with a flatter bevel for gauges. Or keep the same proportional dimensions with the overall height 2in. + higher. Another thought would be to build an integrated vertical instrument cluste/nav pod.
. Page 18 shows the info you are asking for.
, currently a rotary system.