Anchor Chain and Alcohol

[kurz]

it depends on how much wind. If you have not too much wind and the swaying is ennoying you...

easy: Put the anchor out back at the stern. But put the anchor chain to both sides to the cleats. So go with both moorings (port and starbord) lines behind the boat to the anchor chain.

This way the Mac will not swing anymore.

But of course for heavy winds go with the anchor over the bow!

[Highlander]

Ray said
Since the has no backstay, I have to get creative.

Ray let me help u out with that






J

[NiceAft]

John,

I know your pride in acquiring things at a good discounted price, so I’m sure you will appreciate my considerably more economical solution. I use the topping lift, run a line port to starboard through the sail and attach a line to the sail from a mid-ship stanchion. Works well without the cost of a new boom arch.

With all of the additions you have added, I’m glad I made that watercolor of your when I did; I don’t think I could fit it on a sheet of paper today.

[Inquisitor]

Highlander,

Is your arch custom or do you have a link?
If custom, do you have details about the main tubes... diameter / wall thickness?
How does it mount to the boat?
Any extra boat structural changes to support the mounting?

VBR

[NiceAft]

Highlander,

Is your arch custom or do you have a link?
If custom, do you have details about the main tubes... diameter / wall thickness?
How does it mount to the boat?
Any extra boat structural changes to support the mounting?

VBR

John's Mac is the most custom accessorized Mac ever built. It makes the Black Pearl seem like kids play. From the custom bowsprit, to the arch crutch with the solar panels, and everthimg he has added in between. It's an amazing . Definitely one of a kind. and it's all of his own design.

[Highlander]

Radar arch base mount pics during design & fabrication
















link for arch https://victory-products.com/collection ... 1120876161

hope this helps u out for now

[Highlander]

Three base mounted 1 1/4" s/s tubing legs on each side 6 total which I bought new from a marine flea market the 2 smaller ones r mounted on the transom on an inverted angle & the 2 longer ones r mounted on the transom further o/b & the other 2 r mounted on the outside gunnels
Two S/S Radar base mount brkt,s I designed & had fabricated this is the base mount for the radar arch
their is also 2 support arms from the arch mounted traveler to the original mast crutch
J

[Inquisitor]

WOW! I'm simply dumbstruck with the modifications that I can see and imagine the inside is likely modded also. You definitely answered the questions I had. Looking at these... brings more to mind.

• mounting the Bimini to the rub rail is simply brilliant. Mine's just on the slide track. Got to fix that ASAP.
• I see you're not bashful about putting holes in the boat. For some of the higher load tubes (6 to support the arch) did you add any extra fiberglass backing or equivalent?
• Were you able to get to the backsides to bolt or are you using self tapping screws?
• In your 4th picture... Do I see the standard mast roller below the loop and another above?
• Can you sail configured like your last picture? I don't see a sheeting mod that would allow it.
• In your area, can you get on StarLink beta yet? Are you planning on one of the phase array disks for Internet on your arch?

[Highlander]

WOW! I'm simply dumbstruck with the modifications that I can see and imagine the inside is likely modded also. You definitely answered the questions I had. Looking at these... brings more to mind.

• mounting the Bimini to the rub rail is simply brilliant. Mine's just on the slide track. Got to fix that ASAP.
• I see you're not bashful about putting holes in the boat. For some of the higher load tubes (6 to support the arch) did you add any extra fiberglass backing or equivalent?
• Were you able to get to the backsides to bolt or are you using self tapping screws?
• In your 4th picture... Do I see the standard mast roller below the loop and another above?
• Can you sail configured like your last picture? I don't see a sheeting mod that would allow it.
• In your area, can you get on StarLink beta yet? Are you planning on one of the phase array disks for Internet on your arch?

#1 I,d move the bimini mounts from the rubrail to the approx 1" gunnell ledge about 1 1/2" above the rubrail
#2 the 6 arch support legs r all mounted with 1/4" s/s hardware screws then inside flat washers tighten all up with reg, s/s nuts & then nylock s/s nuts as jam nuts, s/s mounting bases r approx 3" Dia & 3 mounting holes between each base & the outside hull r 1/4" tapered star board shims approx 4" Dia to accommodate hull angles & approx 5" Dia S/B backing plates on the inside , inside backing plates were heated with a heat gun to soften them up so as they would bend into the hull inside shape as they were tightned up , so backing plates inside & out supporting hull
#3 all mounted with s/s screws, washers, nuts & after they were all good & tight then installed nylock nuts as jamm nuts the 4 legs on the transom was a 2 man job 1 outside holding the screws & me inside installing the the backing plates, washers, nuts & was a pita getting up in between the liner to tighten it up , the 2 legs on the gunnells was a 1 man job , Note No self tapping screws were used on this project
#4 yes the original mast crutch has had 2 s/s tubes welded onto them near the top too accommodate a second 3 piece 3 possition mast crutch
#5 if u r on a steady tack yes mainsheet can go thru the slot between the top center piece & side window by just unzipping the window or by just undoing one side & flipping it over the other side but not really feasible
#6 Starlink is not fully operational yet & at approx $80 a month no thx and its really for non surburben area,s , right now I use an old samsung cell ph as my hot spot for my security cam. I have a 2 antanna cell ph marine booster kit which I can connect my samsung note 9 too & get all the data I need as long as I can pick up one dot signal outa 5 booster usually boosts it up to 5 or LTE

J

[Inquisitor]

Thank you Highlander.

I'll be an early adopter for StarLink. My only Internet option is Verizon. The unlimited plan is capped at 15GB at $180/month. My 4 Window 10 machines nearly eat that in updates! Then it drops to 600 kbps. IOW, I can never stream video except an occasional YouTube for educational purposes. Since I live in heavily tourist area AND because of COVID and everyone doing virtual this and that... it often drops to ZERO bandwidth. Maybe I can use the same StarLink service at home and then move it to the boat when in use.

[kurz]

@ highlander:
When you are sailing, how do you park your motor? I guess it will not have enough space under the Helm Seat.

So do you disconnect it or do you turn and steer it all time?

Do yo have drag when the foot/Prop of the motor stays in the water?

Does it affect the steering when sailing?

[Inquisitor]

@ highlander:
When you are sailing, how do you park your motor? I guess it will not have enough space under the Helm Seat.

So do you disconnect it or do you turn and steer it all time?

Do yo have drag when the foot/Prop of the motor stays in the water?

Does it affect the steering when sailing?

I'd like to contribute my two cents worth.

I have Mercury 60 HP Bigfoot with the electric lift. I also have the quick disconnect. My opinions on the subject:

(1) It hits the seat. Both the seat and motor have the wounds. Seems kind of strange since this is the motor the factory was touting in their literature/videos at the time.
(2) Hitting is PITA. If I'd known ahead of time I would have definitely gotten a different motor. But I don't motor a bunch. My boat is currently in the shop and come to find that I have a grand total of 68 hours on motor over 12 years. My brother in law (professional fisherman) puts more on his in a month.
(3) If you just bring it up to hitting the seat, it just barely clears still water... meaning it is in the wash quite a bit.
(4) If you lift the seat, you can drive it through and put the seat back down. At that point, it looks rather dufus sticking strait out. I got over it.
(5) To me... disconnecting is mandatory. It affects steering tremendously. Heavy, no feel, and if the motor gets too far sideways, it'll drive the wheel to the stop. I can never tell if the wheel reactions are because of sailing or the motor... as far as I'm concerned, it shall be disconnected.
(6) Lifting the seat, crawling down to detach it is a PITA as its usually is when I have my hands are full single handing near the landing and you totally lose situational awareness standing on your head. And heaven forbid you 're not running strait when you disconnect it, the motor hates me back by trying to crush me into the side.
(7) If it weren't for towing kids, I'd as soon have a much smaller motor. But... I've never so far needed to escape a storm or been in a hurry to get back to a bar.

...But... I love my Mac.

[kurz]

My 2011 Merc 60hp is the same. So I put the helseat half an inch higher that I can close the seat properly.

just I ask myself if the motor troubles the steering when it is a little in the water when sailing. Means when the motor is disconnected and leans close back the Helm Seat. So the Prop is not deep in the water. Maybe it affects just nothing. But I am not decided yet...

[green]

I use the topping lift, run a line port to starboard through the sail and attach a line to the sail from a mid-ship stanchion. Works well without the cost of a new boom arch. M

That’s a great idea. I’d love to see any pics if you have them. Do you recall the size of sail you made/ purchased?

[OverEasy]

Just in case anybody is interested on the “denatured Alcohol in California” aspect of this thread:

As of March 2022, the California Air Resource Board (CARB) has banned the sale of denatured alcohol in California. Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol with additives that make it taste bad & toxic, making it unsuitable for drinking. It's also a highly flammable liquid and vapor, so it should be kept away from heat, sparks, open flames, and hot surfaces.
Isopropyl alcohol can be used in many of the same applications as denatured alcohol, including cleaning plastics and metals. This includes stoves but you’ll need to get the 90% stuff and give it a try with your particular stove. (The 70% stuff didn’t work consistently for our stove before we went flameless (induction cook top) on our boat early on.) However, isopropyl alcohol is also toxic and can irritate the skin, so it should be used with caution on printed products, logos, or labels. Use only in a well ventilated area whether your using denatured or Isopropyl alcohol… both emit CO (and other noxious byproducts) and consume oxygen when burned.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

FYI:
> Denatured alcohol can produce carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O) but also produces other byproducts, including soot, carbon monoxide (CO), methanol, and methyl isobutyl ketone.
> Isopropyl Alcohol can produces carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O) as byproducts. The combustion reaction also produces trace gases and nitrogen gas. However, if the space is poorly ventilated or too small, isopropyl alcohol can also produce soot and carbon monoxide (CO).
Summary: >> Between the two types of alcohol Isopropyl is considered a safer & less hazardous fuel as it should not generate Methanol or Methyl isobutyl ketones when combusted.