Water in the bilge

beene · Post by **beene** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:13 am

When are you coming to teach me how to sail my boat as I never got a chance for you to sail it with me?.

Wow! Nice.
All Bill offered to teach me was how to drink copious amounts of rum and still be able to read a compass.

Catigale · Post by **Catigale** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:24 am

On water leaks - I posted a panic attack last year when I was convinced either my ballast tank was leaking or my hull was leaking

What is tricky when you get water in the bilge and trailer is that it can work its way into traps in the bilge, then jostle around to other parts of the bilge, then turn up somewhere new when you launch.

I finally got the boat out of the water, dried the bilge completely for a week, then filled the tank with a hose. No leaks,

Then I took the boat and left it in the water for a week. No leaks.

It rained, and sure enough, bilge water...

nchogberg · Post by **nchogberg** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:33 am

Cat, thanks for the rundown.

I would think that Roger would make sure the ballast was rock solid as the is what the boat is all about.

We have had intermittent problems. We usally pulled the plug, I went and parked the trailer and then headed out the 15 mins. through the channel before checking. We figured out that by the time I am back from parking and the boat is still at the dock that the ballast is full. We figure that the extra time spent motoring allowed the water to spill over the dam.

I also told the Admiral wait until summer. I bet a week in the sun on the hard and the boat will be bone dry and then we can surmise it is the rain.

later...
Hawg

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 4:37 pm

Steve, next time have some rum first and then go looking for leaks. It will lessen the panic considerably.

delevi · Post by **delevi** » Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:19 pm

Well I took about 3 hours out to work on sealing any potential leaks and had a field day with two tubes of 5200 sealant. Sealed the entire rub rail at the top where it joins to the hull, rudder bracket bolts, inside & out, chain plates, forestay attachment and the bilge floor where I found water, just in case it's ballast. The Admiral and I went sailing this weekend on Clear Lake, CA. (great time.) Checked for leaks several times and found just a tiny bit of water in the same place. There seems to be a small indentation in the fiberglass in that bilge and the bit of water seems to be just in that area. Appears to be coming up from the ballast tank afterall. No water anywhere else, but if I identified the exact area, it should be no problem, since it's easy to get to. I will epoxy this area and hope this does the trick.

Leon

Post by **kmclemore** » Tue Apr 03, 2007 9:09 am

My advice is to dry the area as thoroughly as you possibly can. Then take a bottle of talcum powder and puff it all over the area where you've seen water, and up along the insides of the hull above there as well, making it pretty much an even white coating in the entire area.... Then wait and watch for traces in it - check it very often. As the water leaks in, from wherever it is, you'll see very obvious traces in the talc where it is washed away. If it's seeping in from a seam in the ballast (which, BTW, I seriously doubt) you'll see no traces, just a darkening of the talc around that area, and then, of course, a little puddle.

Bit like rolling the fat lady in flour, gents.

beene · Post by **beene** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 5:39 am

Bit like rolling the fat lady in flour, gents.

.... thanks for that Kevin

Now I am going to have stare at the sun for an hour to burn that image out of my brain

delevi · Post by **delevi** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 12:12 am

Well, I believe I found the source. After tearing the whole boat apart, drying all the bilges I found one place I haven’t looked. At the very front of the v-berth, under the cushions is a plastic hatch which is held in place by 6 screws. I looked through the bilge behind it and found drain holes on either side. Poking a finger in there, there was water. I removed the screws and the hatch and found the area to be full of foam. I laboriously pulled all the foam out and found the entire area wet. I believe I took in a lot of water in this area. It accumulated and sloshed around, eventually making its way back through the bilges. I couldn’t fathom where the water entered, however. I called the dealer and he advised me to test the anchor locker. Filled it with water, plugged the drain, then unplugged… no water leak. Then eureka! Daylight above. The front hatch wasn’t closed tightly. Felt like a real dumbass

Consequently, I discover that I had a broken rubber seal as well, which I proceeded to fix with silicone. I did order a new one, however. After shutting hatch tight, I noticed that all the tension is just in the middle part. I always assumed that it was ok, but I decided to push up on the front corners to test it. I could literally lift either of the forward corners by hand from the inside and create a gap an inch or two wide. While I replace the rubber seal, I’m thinking to replace the locking mechanism. I don’t like what’s currently there… a tension bolt style lock. I’m thinking to install two small clamps on either side. Has anyone done this? I’m glad I got to the bottom of this, but man did I feel stupid

After all this effort, it turns out to be a hatch seal. I guess I should be happy it’s not a ballast or hull leak or anything really serious.

beene · Post by **beene** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:37 pm

Well....

...we have all been there before, the DA thing I mean.

Just happy you don't have a ballast tank prob.

G

Gemini · Post by **Gemini** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:00 am

DLT wrote:Albion,

My boat came with a rigid clear plastic tube, which I presume was for checking ballast. I've never used it, and don't see why you'd need to.

When my tank is full, there is water in the dam under the vee berth. I just don't put the plug in until I see water there...

I use the plastic tube to check the ballast level when draining the ballast whne under power going 6 MPH, use it like a staw (finger over hole) to ensure the ballast is empty. Hope that makes sense.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 6:15 pm

delevi wrote: . . . The front hatch wasn’t closed tightly. Felt like a real dumbass Consequently, I discover that I had a broken rubber seal as well, which I proceeded to fix with silicone. I did order a new one, however. After shutting hatch tight, I noticed that all the tension is just in the middle part. I always assumed that it was ok, but I decided to push up on the front corners to test it. I could literally lift either of the forward corners by hand from the inside and create a gap an inch or two wide. While I replace the rubber seal, I’m thinking to replace the locking mechanism. I don’t like what’s currently there… a tension bolt style lock. I’m thinking to install two small clamps on either side. . . .

Good to hear the problem is identified, Leon, even if the final solution is still pending!

The hatch on my 26X is actually quite stiff. If the center latch is tight, the entire hatch is quite secure. However, using that factory latch is frustrating and awkward. I've pondered getting an improved latching system ... just haven't yet found it.

delevi · Post by **delevi** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 10:34 pm

I've pondered getting an improved latching system

I'm thinking of using a clamp... hard to describe what I'm picturing here....something like for the top of a shop vac but larger or the type used to hold the top and bottom of a dog crate. One end fits into the other... approx 4 inches wide, then you pull the movable piece which is on a swivel axis and it clicks in place. Would be much nicer than the factory bolt... POS

Post by **kmclemore** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 5:51 am

delevi wrote:
I've pondered getting an improved latching system
I'm thinking of using a clamp... hard to describe what I'm picturing here....something like for the top of a shop vac but larger or the type used to hold the top and bottom of a dog crate. One end fits into the other... approx 4 inches wide, then you pull the movable piece which is on a swivel axis and it clicks in place. Would be much nicer than the factory bolt... POS

I've also considered a similar latch - I hate the one that came with the Mac.

What I think we're both looking for is some kind of "over-center draw latch" or "pull draw latch"... look here for some suggestions:

http://www.southco.com/product/default.aspx?hid=7320
http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Doo ... 379340.htm
http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Doo ... 788846.htm
http://www.sailboatstuff.com/images/AB350010LG.jpg

I particularly like the rubber ones - keeps the tension on and won't hurt if you whack your head on it!

delevi · Post by **delevi** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:05 pm

Thanks Kevin. I like the one in the fourth link you posted, the bronze looking one.

Post by **kmclemore** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:44 pm

delevi wrote:Thanks Kevin. I like the one in the fourth link you posted, the bronze looking one.

Yeah, but two drawbacks... first, I think it's too short... and second, I *know* I'd smack my head on that dang thing!

But, if you've got a hankering for it, here's where I found it:

http://www.sailboatstuff.com/cb_latchasp.html

DRAW-CLAMP LATCH
Center tensioning device ideal for hatches, doors, cabinets, or wherever a tensioning device is needed. Finished in Polished Brass and Polished Chrome (over Brass). Fasteners not included.
US$17.95 / EACH
Locked Length: 3-5/16" Open Length: 2-11/16" Width: 1-5/8" Fastener Size: #8 Weight: 4 oz. P/N: 350010 (brass) / 350011 (chrome)

They also sell the nasty bugger that's on there from the factory:

HATCH DOG
Ideal for sliding companionway hatches. Includes catch. Black bakelite knob easily secures hatch. Finished in Polished Stainless Steel. Fasteners not included.
US$10.95 / EACH - STAMPED STAINLESS STEEL
Base Diameter: 1-1/2" x 5/8" Fastener Size: #8 Weight: 0.15 lbs. P/N: 350177

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Water in the bilge