MacGregorSailors.com

How do you order a new one from the factory? Do I call my nearest dealer? I bought mine used, so I'm not sure.

I got one from our local dealer. It was more than $200 though. If you can get one for $200 I'd go that route. Check with the dealors who advertise here.

baldbaby2000 wrote:. . . MacGregor should consider an improved daggerboard. It's almost a disadvantage having previously owned a Mac 25 (swing keel).
I got used to hitting virtually anything without any damage.

Maybe Roger should consider a swing centerboard to prevent this problem.

OH ... wait a minute! That's on the 26X.

Frank C wrote:Maybe Roger should consider a swing centerboard to prevent this problem.

OH ... wait a minute! That's on the 26X.

Don't be surprised if he switches back to a swing keel instead of centerboard next time.

Don't be surprised if he switches back to a swing keel instead of centerboard next time

He's been this route before!

The dagger board is growing on me specially as protection or an early warning for the rudders, have hit it pretty hard and it doesn't seem to be any worse for wear but it is something else to think about.

Maybe I better start carrying a spare cos I have hit mine pretty hard on rocks, stumps and sand and even abused the boss for not giving enough throttle to spin off one reef while preparing to beach behind it:o until I realised I had not lifted it or the rudders thanks to being preoccupied catching fish.

I got my replacement dagger board form the dealer that sold me my boat. He sold it to me at his cost of $163.10 plus $48.00 shipping. The factory price is $233.00 plus $48.00 shipping

I think a spare is a good idea. It may prevent your sailing trip from being cut short. My dealer told me that in a pinch I could cut a piece of plywood that size and use as a spare. I don't know how well that would work and if the bouyancy of the wood would cause a problem keeping the board down.

Daniel

How about a dagger board made of HDPE? Would this be strong enough to take hard groundings yet soft enough break before damage done to the hull? I under stand that Ida Sailor would run a production model if enough people were interested. Any one interested?

School House Steve wrote:How about a dagger board made of HDPE? Would this be strong enough to take hard groundings yet soft enough break before damage done to the hull? I under stand that Ida Sailor would run a production model if enough people were interested. Any one interested?

If it came weighted with an extra 50+ lbs of lead I might spring for it!

I posted a suggested improvement to the profile of the upper end of the aft side of the board last summer http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... highlight=

I can now report that after 2 full seasons (during which my soft groundings have been less frequent, but have happened), the CPVC wear-surface on the upper end of the aft side of our board is holding up just fine.

Anyone who plans to fabricate new replacement boards would be well advised to cast a similar profile on the portion that always remains inside the trunk.

I'd forgetten about that post. I'll have to consider doing that. Thanks.

Daniel

Terry,
I agree, A Hdpe daggerboard would have to be weighted since the material is lighter than water
Parrothead, Your idea of "blunting" the upper end of the aft part of the dagger board is right on. Mine was broken from the 57" mark to the bottom. Two other dagger boards I own for different boats are built this way, stout in the part that stays in the trunk and tapered in the part that stays in the water. I'm still thinking about a welded steel board, stout above 57" and possibly weighted below. If i knew how to weld aluminum I'd make it out of that instead.

The only bad thing about blunting the top of the board is that you might loose some of the gybing daggerboard effect although I doubt a gybing board helps that much if at all but that's another topic.

Whats that sound??

A played out thread...on overload!!!!!!!