MacGregorSailors.com

March and others:

I am trying to not "Reinvent the Wheel", so I have spent some time searching for just the right reference for you. One that is not full of glaring errors and is not too technical is this one:

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ.

Although there have been some liberties taken for the sake of simplicity, it is very good.

~Rich

Just to mention - I had my fuse panel replaced with a 8 breaker panel and they added a terminal block for the negative. About a week ago I found the battery not charging and, after an hour, found that the screw on the negetive terminal block loose and there was not a good ground. Indications of this before but I did not look.

Do you have an amp meter to show how much charging?
From the reviews that I have read it is best to get a battery volt meter that has readings in the hundreds. I have a digital meter on my motor and use it but it only goes to tenths.

Although usually not a problem but are the terminals on the battery loose?
Junk or other stuff on the terminals causing not to charge or loose amps?
Terminal ends in good shape?

Hitting all grounds. Guess we should make a checklist on what to check as this comes up about every 1 1/2 months.

Frank, you have any pictures of your batteries and how they are positioned? I'm assuming a group 29 is physically larger than a group 27 but someone in this or another thread said they weren't able to fit two group 27's in the stock locker (and I know I can at least get one in there). My mac has the typical stock group 24 and then the PO put in a group 27 right behind it. I guess I should go check the resting voltage after a week or two to see if one is a lot different than the other one since they were both replaced at the same time.

Dimitri,

That was me but that was on the double battery locker under the stairs. I believe Frank has his under the dinnette seat.

Jim

No pictures, but easy to describe. The Gp29 is too long to drop thru the hatch, but misses by less than an inch.
I just trimmed the hatch slightly to open it wider (enlarging its fore-aft dimension). The factory hatch cover still fits.

Your factory starting battery is attached lengthwise to the cabin-sole facing bulkhead, aligned w/the boat's centerline.
It was easy to insert a second battery-box in the same orientation. I'm using a heavy-duty velcro strap to bind both batteries tightly to that same facing bulkhead, and tightly back against the battery locker's aft bulkhead, at head of the aft berth.

Frank has an X. The M battery area is different unless you want to put them in the lockers.

Thanks for the clarifications, I guess the M has less room in its stock location then. The stock battery in the X is attached with a strap that bolts to the side of the galley seat structure, nice and safe with no chance of putting a hole into the ballast tank or hull and will hold the battery securely even if you were to turtle the boat. How do you attach the non stock battery box in there, or do you attach it at all?

Attached it. you do not want it bouncing around.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote: How do you attach the non stock battery box in there, or do you attach it at all?

Dimitri, you missed it, as below. I totally removed the factory mounting, both batteries are strapped now.

Frank C wrote:...It was easy to insert a second battery-box in the same orientation. I'm using a heavy-duty velcro strap to bind both batteries tightly to that same facing bulkhead, and tightly back against the battery locker's aft bulkhead, at head of the aft berth.

I currently have 3-115ah batteries on THIRD DAY for the house bank that are 2yrs old and wanted to have a total bank of 6-115AH batteries. I just came from Sams Club and purchased 6-125AH Group 20 batteries. It is't not a good idea to mis new batteries with old and batteries of different makes together. It wasn't cheap at $76ea, but when was something for a boat ever cheap?

And...did you EVER hear Capt Kirk call down to Scotty and Say...back her down Scotty...we got all the Power We need?


Rich

I use AGM 24 series for start and 27 series for house battery . AGM`s are great for deep cycle and starting. They charge very quickly , less than others. Maintenance free , no spills and vents very little hydrogen and great for vibration. Best overall battery for Sailboats ! Rated for 300 deep cycles , where flooded 6 V golf batteries are rated for over 700 cycles , but if you are deep cycle your batteries that many times , you have other issues! Plus no need to add water ! Use a Blue Seas ACR with compatable Battery switch ! You will not have to touich the battery switch unless your start battery fails. The ACR charges bith batteries when there is ant type of charging source. Be Safe!

Hello Team,
My opinion on changing both batteries or only one. I will suggest to change only the defective batterie (the weak one). The reason behind, is it better to have 2 different batteries in term of age. In this condition you avoid the risk of a total failure from both batteries in the same time. I would recommend to buy only one batterie and you select a good one having the best performance. You may pay more for the batterie but will still be cheaper than buying two batteries.

Marc,

I replace both my WalMart batteries this weekend. They both would not hold a charge. One was three years old and the other was 2 year old.

In order to extend the life of the new batteries I purchased a 10W solar panel with a charge controller and mount for a low cost of $133 (http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/so ... 0Chrg.html).


Also ordered a cheap multi battery voltage meter for $39 (better than nothing, best price) to help with over using the batteries (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=724613).


Found the lowest cost replacement 18 LED bulbs for the cabin (http://www.virtualvillage.com/Items/002 ... r%20Lights)


Masthead replacement 36 LED bulbs for the cabin (http://www.virtualvillage.com/Items/002 ... r%20Lights)


Victor