Yes, the tangs need to be bent back straight and parallel, as when they were new, and the pivot bolt needs to be kept tight against plastic spacers so this doesn't happen again.
While it's easier said than done, the tangs need to be flat and parallel to each other, and with the proper distance between them.
Straightening any piece of bent metal is an art, and covering it in detail is beyond the scope of this forum. Briefly though, study the pieces first to determine where to apply the pressure (a single point, or a line), and where to support the piece(s) against that pressure (usually two points, or lines).
From the photo, it looks like the tangs have spread in two directions, backwards, and downwards, and that the bend has happened more at a line that passes through the pivot point.
Simply squeezing the tangs together again with, say, a 4” bench vice (that's not attached to a bench) or a big “C” clamp will not get you the result you want, because it won't flatten them, and therefore they won't end up parallel. Hint: put tape over the vice jaws to avoid scratches. Something of the right thickness, like a piece(s) of hardwood will need to be placed between the tangs, in the right position (likely past the pivot hole), so that the tangs bend as they are brought into being parallel by the vice pressure.
The amount of “overbend” needed can be gauged by noting the orientation of the vice handle – apply the pressure (start with too little), note the orientation, back out the vice, check the bend amount, then back the vice handle in again, going, say, 1/16 th of a rotation more, and repeat until you're happy with it.
Use a straight edge (like a 6”or 12”steel ruler or similar) perpendicular to the face of the tang, to check for flatness – you want to see the minimum sliver of light coming through at the contact line. If you can pinch a 1/2” wide strip of paper in that sliver, (or even two, or three, thicknesses) then perfect! (But might not always be attainable). Be patient.
As shipped from the factory there is 1/8” of clearance between the tangs and the rudders, so when the pivot bolt is snugged up to two 1/16” thick plastic spacers, one on each side, that clearance is taken up, the tangs are drawn parallel, and lash is removed at that point. You can make your own or I can provide as mentioned above.
If the nylock nut of the pivot bolt shows signs of wear, or is a bit too loose for your liking, I would replace it/ them. You want it to maintain tension over time to keep the tangs from spreading.
Good luck!
-B.
ps. I emailed you re: the spacers.
I put some plastic cutting board spacers on both sides but it didn't seem to do a thing... I'd appreciate any and all suggestions.
