MacGregorSailors.com

Guy's,
The rudders and rudder brackets on the pre 99's are entirely different. ECO's is a 2000. I'm not sure that the pre 99 brackets will even fit the 2000 without redrilling mounting holes in the boat. I know the 2000 rudders won't fit the pre 99 brackets. the 2000 brackets are stainless. But, if you have the parts like you said then this academic and you won't have a problem.

capncarp,
99

We do have a fair number of users overseas, including the Mediterranian, I'm guessing? Might be able to connect you to a local boat in Albania or Greece?

capncarp wrote:I know the 2000 rudders won't fit the pre 99 brackets. the 2000 brackets are stainless.

My '99 has stainless brackets and the giant rudders that are squared off at the bottom, though I don't know if those rudders are original or aftermarket. The brackets, I'm sure, are original.

Just mentioned to clarify what was done in '99, or at least what was done with my hull.

Dear friends, I am back

Winter weather and work kept me away from what is becoming a favorable pastime Since it is already summer time I am back again trying to put all sailing/rigging parts back

If you recall my opening remark, the previous owner stripped almost all sailing parts and used only with the engine. So what I still have in my hands right now is a load of rigging parts, pulleys, cables, big aluminum poles (mast ++), ropes, etc. I still could not find any step-by-step refitting guide on the internet (the original user manual is only partially useful).

Currently:
Swing centerboard is out and currently being paint-stripped.
Question: It only has a single line (rope) attached on it, right? Pulled up to be secured and released to drop it down. Then how it is locked into the down position when it is in use?

Good news!!!
The missing rudder brackets were recovered (last week). They are the stainless steel version.

It is held down by gravity. There is no mechanical locking mechanism at all. In shallow water or when striking an obstruction it will swing up and then drop back down when you are clear of the obstruction or back in deeper water. I've heard my centerboard sliding over sandbars or bumping over submerged logs on more than one occasion.

Your rudders are also designed to lift up in the same way but in much shallower water. They will partially drop back as well but I've found that they usually will need to be pulled down the last inch or so. You will notice a definite increase in steering effort if the rudders are not all the way down.

Be Free wrote:
You will notice a definite increase in steering effort if the rudders are not all the way down.

Avoid using the rudders if they are not all the way down. Even at a short angle, they put undue strain on the brackets. If the brackets are the aluminum type (like they tend to be on most 26X models) they will bend and crack

March wrote:Be Free wrote:
... Even at a short angle, they put undue strain on the brackets. If the brackets are the aluminum type (like they tend to be on most 26X models) they will bend and crack

They are the stainless steel type, but I will keep it mind anyway.

Be Free wrote:It is held down by gravity. There is no mechanical locking mechanism at all. In shallow water or when striking an obstruction it will swing up and then drop back down when you are clear of the obstruction or back in deeper water. I've heard my centerboard sliding over sandbars or bumping over submerged logs on more than one occasion.

Your rudders are also designed to lift up in the same way but in much shallower water...

OK, thank you. Now that I am taking care of the swing centerboard, would you recommend that I place some marine epoxy reinforcement at the bottom edge?


Also:
I will be posting photos of rigging parts that I can only guess where and how they should be fitted. Hopefully some of you will guide me through

March wrote:

Be Free wrote:
You will notice a definite increase in steering effort if the rudders are not all the way down.

Avoid using the rudders if they are not all the way down. Even at a short angle, they put undue strain on the brackets. If the brackets are the aluminum type (like they tend to be on most 26X models) they will bend and crack

I was not advocating using the rudders in that position, only letting him know how to notice from the steering if they were not completely down. I agree that they create a great deal of strain on the rudders and the brackets if they are not completely lowered.

I have just purchased a 1999? 26X and am in process of doing a GRP repair & renovating the interior. I found the manual very informative but short on electrical wiring runs etc.
Can someone please tell me where the leisure battery is located.
Many thanks for a very informative site.
Belfastni

Welcome aboard!

There isn't a standard layout of electrical, especially on an overseas delivered boat. There is a manual in the Respurces section above but it's very likely someone changed this over the years.

In a 1997 X there tend to be two 12 volt batteries, located together. Often owners will have a Perko swich, but it isn't required.

belfastni wrote:I have just purchased a 1999? 26X and am in process of doing a GRP repair & renovating the interior. I found the manual very informative but short on electrical wiring runs etc.
Can someone please tell me where the leisure battery is located.
Many thanks for a very informative site.
Belfastni

belfastni wrote:I have just purchased a 1999? 26X and am in process of doing a GRP repair & renovating the interior. I found the manual very informative but short on electrical wiring runs etc.
Can someone please tell me where the leisure battery is located.
Many thanks for a very informative site.
Belfastni

My electricals have been rewired too (I think). There are two batteries at the port side before the galley (left side before the kitchen in plain English for my sake ). They are under a removable cover, barely fitting through the opening (about a foot -30cm long).

Also, in my case. there is no "Cabin Entry Step and valve cover" as shown in the "Owners Instructions MacGregor 26X" ** photo 27. No vent plug and filling valve as shown in photo 28 either. Only a flat surface (no step at all) and a typical marine swing ladder (SS poles and wooden steps) to get in and out the cabin.

** Please note that there are at least 3 versions of "Owners Instructions" around the Internet and available here too. I am referring to the 1996 edition manual. The 2002 edition does not mention/show anything about this "Cabin entry step and valve cover".

eco wrote:** Please note that there are at least 3 versions of "Owners Instructions" around the Internet and available here too. I am referring to the 1996 edition manual. The 2002 edition does not mention/show anything about this "Cabin entry step and valve cover".

Just to enlighten on this non-electrical observation, my '99 has the step (no ladder), but no valve under it. The vent is in the bow, like the later ones. And that step is really in the way. I can see why they got rid of it.

My hull number is X2413, manufactured in August of 1998, though the model year is actually 1999, all per the HIN. Just for reference.

Tomfoolery wrote: ... The vent is in the bow, like the later ones. And that step is really in the way. I can see why they got rid of it.

My hull number is X2413, manufactured in August of 1998, though the model year is actually 1999, all per the HIN. Just for reference.

Good to know that the (only) vent is in the bow (for models after 1998-99). Without the step-vent mentioned earlier, and without the original instructions, I was concerned that somebody had modified the boat. Thank you . And yes it looks and feels much better with a flat surface there, rather than with a step.

eco wrote:

Tomfoolery wrote: ... The vent is in the bow, like the later ones. And that step is really in the way. I can see why they got rid of it.

My hull number is X2413, manufactured in August of 1998, though the model year is actually 1999, all per the HIN. Just for reference.

Good to know that the (only) vent is in the bow (for models after 1998-99). Without the step-vent mentioned earlier, and without the original instructions, I was concerned that somebody had modified the boat. Thank you . And yes it looks and feels much better with a flat surface there, rather than with a step.

If I could find a ladder, I'd take the step off and never put it back. I have to remove it to get large items into the stern berth (just storage there, for me), or to get to the operable ports I installed in the cockpit seat walls, particularly the one on the starboard side, as my arms just aren't long enough to reach with my shoulder against the head bulkhead and my chin on the companionway hatch board coaming.

But I do keep the registration card under that step, in a water tight box, so it does serve some function in addition to being a step.