Page 3 of 3
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 3:50 pm
by Tomfoolery
This is what I thought you meant at first, when I asked about a stopper knot.
2-parts (instead of the 3-parts you have now), no line cutting, one block, and the cam or jamb cleat or rope clutch.
The slack part stays slack always, as the stopper knot (or just a half hitch through the hole in the cleat) keeps the bitter end from pulling through the cleat. It'll get very slack when the CB is hoisted, as you would expect.
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 4:10 pm
by BOAT
That would give us a REAL 3 to 1 purchase ratio, right tom?
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 4:15 pm
by Neo
I'm think of using a Tang under the cleat then a pivot block attached to the tang ..... No extra holes
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RONSTAN-RF43 ... SwZ8ZW3zpU
BOAT I replaced my dagger board line a few months back ... it's no big deal when the boats on the trailer
BOAT wrote:That would give us a REAL 3 to 1 purchase ratio, right tom?
Does that mean 3 times the amount of rope ends up in the helm too

Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 4:39 pm
by chuck
NiceAft wrote:As always BOAT, it's going real fine.
Ray
I don't Display the pictures. What am I doing wrong?
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 4:40 pm
by chuck
Tomfoolery wrote:BOAT wrote:I guess I could try to draw a picture, but that's gonna take me a few hours too !

. . . I will try to make some sort of a diagram.
Like this?
Loop tied into DB line with single block attached, then run through cleat [1], back to block [2], around block and back to cam or jamb cleat or rope clutch [3]?
I don't Display the pictures. What am I doing wrong?
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 5:04 pm
by Tomfoolery
This one is three-part . . .
. . . and this one is two-part.

Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 5:31 pm
by Ixneigh
I'm going cut the line and tie a nice little block on there. Then I'm going to tie one end of another line to the cleat, run it through the block and back to the cleat for a handy doubling of pulling power. And an easy one at that.
Ix
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 6:06 pm
by BOAT
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 8:18 pm
by Neo
I have to honest Tom and say that "I'm not keen those designs as they stand" ... Surely a block at the cleat would make things run a whole lot smoother?
And don't fully understand the rope routing of the 2nd diagram with a slack line??
I'm think a ratchet block would help when you have to grab a 2nd handfull of the rope ... but I'm not sure if the ratchet block would be better on the top block side or the cleat side?
All the best.
Neo
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 3:54 am
by Tomfoolery
Those aren't really suggestions - I'm trying to sketch what BOAT is describing, or what I think he's describing. The slack line comes from putting a loop into the existing long line to use for the block, but adding the stopper knot (or just a knot) and not cutting the line while using the remainder for hoisting the DB. Sort of a trucker's hitch, but with the stopper knot, there's only two parts. But the slack part isn't doing anything at all, other than not being cut. A tripping hazard, for sure.
If it were me, I'd just put a block on the line, cut the excess off and whip the termination so it's neat, and run two parts (using a different line) to a cam cleat or rope clutch on one end, and the existing cleat on the other. Or keep it three parts, but add a block to a strap under the cleat so I didn't have to drill any more holes. But three parts of line is probably overkill - probably, because I've never hoisted the DB of an M boat, and don't know how hard it is. The swing CB of my X is easy to haul up, even with one hand.
A photo from BOAT would help.

Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 4:45 am
by Jimmyt
Love the sketches, Tom - especially when I'm trying to figure out where Boat is coming from (or if he's just yanking our collective halyard). Often, a picture is worth a thousand words as far as getting everyone to the same page.
I've noticed that the effort to hoist my M dagger board is directly proportional to how much trouble I'm in and how bad I want it up. If you're not scraping, running downwind seems to be a pretty easy hoist. A broad reach hoist takes a bit of pulling - making the multi part rig seem attractive. As you can imagine, the force on the board tends to bind it in the trunk.
Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 6:50 am
by BOAT
Tom makes the pictures any way you want them. If you want a real live Tomfoolery design he will make one for you - his designs are always the best based on the math - if he has the right numbers going in his picture his picture designs will always be the best.
As for pulling on peoples halyards that's is the troll effect - it's a birth defect that greatly impedes my ability to speak clearly. sorry that you all must endure it.

Re: 26M Dagger Board Uphaul
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 1:57 pm
by Neo
Tomfoolery wrote:Those aren't really suggestions - I'm trying to sketch what BOAT is describing, or what I think he's describing.
Thanks for the reminder Tom
I've noticed on my Mac that the turning block is not in-line with the track cover and the cleat ... So to keep things neat I may have to drill some holes after all
