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Macwanted84 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 08, 2023 7:18 pm Thanks fellas! I called a gearhead buddy of mine, who helped alleviate some of my paranoia. I said if you put new tread on it, and the bearings are packed with grease, and the brakes aren’t dragging, squealing, or making a racket, the likelihood of them seizing and you rolling over 12 times is extremely minimal.”

Thank you for the advice about the coupling in the receiver. I’m hoping that’s all it was.

I am using a 2 inch ball.

I’ve also eaten, and that seems to make everything better. Especially after a day on your back of the advance AutoZone parking lot in Muskegon.

Stop a few times and check it for the first hour to make sure the hubs are staying cool and there is no excessive play.

I’m sure you’ll be fine. You’ve given it a good bit of thought and taken several precautions. A lot of guys would have coupled it up and taken off - choosing to deal with problems as they come up.

Check your bunk wood for integrity. Make sure the hatch, anchor locker, and companionway washboard are securely latched. And take a pic when you get her home. Safe travels! You’ve got this.

JimmyT’s right…. We’re pullin fer ya!

I assume you checked that the surge brake system was bled and the reservoir filled. I’ve had instances where there was air in the lines, lines cracked and reservoirs short of fluid…in one case the 10 year owner of the trailer had never checked or serviced (he didn’t know one could or should🫣) which explained a few things but that’s another story.

Also that you checked the ball fit to the trailer coupler socket… there generally is an adjustment nut to the plate that the locking lever moves into position… if it’s too loose the ball can slip around in the socket…pull and the ball goes forwards a bit and brake and the ball moves to the aft of the socket… that might be that clunk you’ve heard. The ball shouldn’t have muck play in the socket but not tight either… sorta like Goldilocks…just right.

Hope that helps some

Best Regards
Over Easy

Thanks again everybody! I’ll unhitch and take a look for this nut! How does on inspect the surge system to see if it’s topped up? And how would one do that?

Macwanted84 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2023 5:51 am Thanks again everybody! I’ll unhitch and take a look for this nut! How does on inspect the surge system to see if it’s topped up? And how would one do that?

On the black tongue, there is a round cap on the top. Unscrew the cap and under there is the reservoir for brake fluid. Assuming the trailer has surge brakes. Probably does.

The 5th pin on the wiring connector is supposed to be for backup and disables the brakes so they don't lock backing up. I don't have a working 5th pin on my truck so I just tape a large washer in the slot that moves back when reverse pressure on the coupling is applied.

This is the proper device for backup lock out



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You got this. The most important part is the rubber. Those old tires look old. You already fixed that.

Get a ratchet strap and toss it over the cockpit in front of the pedestal. You could even use a dock line if you don't have one.

Adding support to some already answered questions:

Tire pressure varies. The maximum is marked on the sidewall of the tire. Inflate your tire to whatever pressure it says. Underinflated tires get hot and fail. Overinflated tires get hot (slower) and fail. 80psi is normal for load range E but check the sidewall for the definitive answer.

When you redo your trailer wiring I highly recommend running a ground wire to each light. The #1 reason why lights stop working is the chassis ground connection.

The bangs you hear are probably the coupler on the surge brakes. It's probably nothing to worry about as long as you have already verified that everything that is bolted on correctly. I once came across a very noisy coupler and inspection revealed that there was nothing inside. The master cylinder had been removed. Might be worth a look to make sure you actually have one.

You should not hear loud bangs when you go over a pothole. If you do, check the suspension on the trailer and vehicle.

A little jerk from a dead stop is normal with surge brakes. A hard jerk and/or a loud noise is not.

Bearing buddies "packed to the gills" may be a problem. They should be filled until the top plate just touches the top of the mechanism. Over filling them has the potential of damaging the rear seal and possibly loosening the bearing buddy allowing it to fall off.

No heat is good. No noise from the breaks doubly so. Check regularly.

Ratchet straps are a good idea. Some states require them; none forbid them. They can't hurt and may help. Make sure the ratchet mechanism can't damage the boat or the trailer at highway speeds. Secure loose ends. Nylon webbing makes great sandpaper at 60 MPH.

Go slow. Stop and check everything regularly. You'll get there safely.

1 hour in. Hub temp is ambient to the outside air. Cat ratchet strap over the boat just forward of the pedestal. No tension on the pedestal.

I’m going on faith that the surge brakes are good. The lines and fittings looked good and no problems are heard or felt. Perhaps the initial jolt from take off is them disengaging? Or ball play (snort). I did unhitch and felt around for a bit to adjust and found none. Perhaps I’m not looking right.

In regards to the wiring lol…I combined a four pin and a five pin set, and used the existing ground and blue for the surge solenoid. I seem to be able to back up without a problem, not that I intend to do so much on this trip.

Keeping it at 65 and only feeling up a truck stops when able

I can’t really put into words how much yawls (hilarious accurate spelling there voice text…) advice and well wishes have meant to me on this. It’s nice to have found a helpful community. I am much more comfortable thanks to y’all.

And it’s not that I’m a wuss, just that I’ve avoided responsibility most of my life and buying this boat was a bigger decision than getting married lol.
…which is saying something considering the deal I got on this boat!


Remind me to tell you sometime about how I used the mast raising system to pull the wiring on the trailer…

Not shure if u,ve been told this but I,d spray the slider tube section of the surge brakes at the coupler with some good penetrating oil mine was seized after sitting for 4 yrs , yep my boats been in the water for 4 yrs coming out this spring for maintenance , inspection & new bottom paint

J

owners feel free to correct me, but I travel with my rudders straight up and a safety rope on them to keep them from dragging themselves to death if they come down. Is that not required on your boats?

Be Free wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2023 1:52 pm owners feel free to correct me, but I travel with my rudders straight up and a safety rope on them to keep them from dragging themselves to death if they come down. Is that not required on your boats?

Get those rudders up.

No question that the rudders need to be up. I don’t know what the alternative is; sticking straight out? Definitely not.

On my , all I’ve ever done is use the bolt for that function, and also the pull up rope for each rudder.

The pull up rope pulled taught.


The bolt which secures the rudder,


I’ve never had a problem. This summer will be 19 seasons. I will be doing round trip a 160 mile jaunt, and a 560 mile round trip. I feel confident with the system.

Yeah that port rudder was a a little loose…I didn’t realize there was a better way than just the safety line…

Well, I made it! Got it up the inclined driveway on the second try! At some point possibly prior to this, the mast disobeyed the strap over it and left the strong back. No damage has been noted. Wife isn’t sure if I came dow the street that way or while during the first back up attempt when it “tinged” a lamp post apparently. (I live on a busy street).

Anyway, now the work begins as in the drive I noticed a scratch on the bow underneath the first ridge that is DEF. Through to the fiberglass…

Thanks again for all the advice etc!

Welcome home!

Good work. She's home!!!

It must be a big relief.

The "M" rudders have 2 bolts. One for the pivot and another for securing it in the UP position.

Great news! Glad it was an uneventful trip!

I use safety lines on my rudders when trailering. I also pull the uphaul lines tight and cleat them. I like having a backup on these. If the rudders drop, I’d never know it until I arrived at my destination.