MacGregorSailors.com

Very nice!

@kmclemore
Dit you test the 14/10 Prop?

I use it with my , the 14/9 went too high rpm...

rsvpasap wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2024 1:51 pm Do you think a 9.9 HP would get a 26X, fully loaded and with ballast in, to 6 knots keep it there? Do you think you would need to run the 9.9 HP at WOT?

My rough calculations say that you will need somewhere between 3/4 and full throttle to hit 6 knots on smooth water.

kurz wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 5:14 am My rough calculations say that you will need somewhere between 3/4 and full throttle to hit 6 knots on smooth water.

Good information. Thanks for your help.

Breaking in that new Suzuki 60 motor….

Video on my Google drive:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zsRJzb ... p=drivesdk

Nice! I'd like to see what full throttle looks like. Please post a video. I have a 2005 M and would love to put that motor on it. The Honda 50 is fine but it just doesn't have the punch to get the boat up on plane. On a good day I might get 12 knots out of it. I have a 4 blade prop on it now. It's great on gas and very dependable so a new motor is on a wish list.
I feel that anything bigger than that motor would block too much of the stern making it difficult to get in and out from the water or dinghy. The M has less room than your X.

KB

Hi All!

We’ve had our Suzuki DF60AVOn over Easy for over two seasons now having accumulated 300+ hours so far.
We are very happy with our choice!
More than enough power to get us up on plane and ver fuel efficient!
It’s been very reliable!

We followed all the manufacturer breaking and maintenance recommendations which have worked well for us.

Empty of everything non-cruising with full 24 gallons of fuel and two s adults on still water we hit 24 mph.
Loaded up for a weeks worth of cruising with full 24 gallons of fuel and two adults (a dog and a cat as well) on mild chop we hit 16-18 mph.
Regular cruise speed is generally around 6-10 mph.

The current Suzuki fuel consumption is Substantially less than 1/2 of our old 2-stroke Tohatsu 50 hp fuel consumption.

Details of our engine change and last fall’s cruise to/from Charleston SC are in our trip logs.
viewtopic.php?t=28089
viewtopic.php?t=29401

Best move we could have made!

Best Regards,
Over Easy

Tsatzsue wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2024 6:50 am Nice! I'd like to see what full throttle looks like. Please post a video.

That's gonna take a month or so... the break-in on this motor is 10(!) hours, and I've only got 2 done presently. Had to come home from the lake to handle other committments, and won't be back up for about 4 weeks at least.

Two things: just watched a Suzuki60AV video that claims a planing speed of about 18 knots, and much better gas usage…

Two:: I had a link to actual Nissan site with access to all repair manuals including the NS50D … seems to have gone awry … anyone with source to actual repair manual please come back …
Thanks

Hi WO2!

Just a thought… Nissan and Tohatsu are virtually the same other than name plates for nearly all models…
So that could be another search approach.

Hope that is of some help.

Best Regards,
Over Easy

WO2 wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 10:02 am ... I had a link to actual Nissan site with access to all repair manuals including the NS50D … seems to have gone awry … anyone with source to actual repair manual please come back …
Thanks

I have the owner's manual, the workshop manual and the parts manual, all in PDF. I have TEMPORARILY uploaded them to the Google drive where I stored my Nissan photos... you can download them from there:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

I'll take them back out in a couple of weeks, so grab 'em now.

I went to change the oil on my Suzuki DF70 (26M) yesterday and discovered it was mostly seawater. I'm thinking it might be time to replace the motor - maybe with a DF60AV. I'm on Orcas Island, can anyone recommend a dealer near there?

Hi Silas Talb!

Sorry to hear about the water in the oil issue you’ve experienced.🫣
Typically that means a head gasket failed between the oil gallery and the coolant passages. ( Possibly fixable )
Alternatively it could be corrosion through the coolant passage wall(s) to the oil galleries ( Probably not fixable )

The services of a good mechanic should be of value in actually determining what the problem is if you have an interest in knowing.

Curiosity, what year and how many hours of operational time does your old DF70 engine have anyway?

If your looking for a new engine here is the link to the official Suzuki Dealer Finder.
https://www.suzukimarine.com/find-a-dealer/

We changed from a 2001 Tohatsu 50 hp 2-stroke to a new Suzuki DF60AV 4-stroke ultra low emissions a couple of years ago.
We are VERY HAPPY with it!!!
Very reliable, easy to service, lots of power for our needs and gets stunning fuel economy (especially compared to our old 2-stroke).

As with anything good annual and preventative maintenance practices help from the very get go.
Just the normal stuff of :
> Upper & lower unit oil and oil filter changes every 100 hours.
> Annual inspection and replacement (as required by condition) of the external AND internal engine sacrificial anodes
> Annual replacement of the water pump impeller (and impeller housing as required by condition)
> Annual replacement of the on engine fuel filter
> Annual replacement of the engine spark plugs

The above are just the normal stuff one should be doing for any engine anyway irrespective of age or type to help it have a happy and productive life for as long as possible.

These are all easily accomplished on our DF60AV in our driveway in a couple hours.
We had our purchasing dealer do the initial break-in service interval and beneficially were able to watch him go through that process.
We’ve done this twice now as we’ve reached 300+ hours so far of actual meter logged operational hours.

It’s not hard or difficult (but it is nice to have a second set of hands when removing the lower unit as it is a bit awkward, as it is on any outboard).
The only cautionary aspect is to make sure that when undoing the shifter rod BEFORE unbolting & removing the lower unit you MEASURE & MARK THE FACTORY SET POSITION BEFORE UNDOING IT! (As you might rightly assume I almost missed accomplishing that on the first go round…Whew!!! Thankfully my neighbor came over to help (ex-Navy small engine mechanic) and caught my impending boo-boo ).

Note: If that does happen to someone it’s not the end of the world. One just needs to do a couple of simple driveway test runs (with running water muffs installed) to adjust it… Would be easier with two people than one!

Hope this is of some help for you and others… We’re all in this together

Best Regards,
Over Easy

Well, to change every year the impeller works of course... Und but I think the impeller really holds longer...

Hi Kurz!

You could be right but maybe not…… It’s our choice to follow the OEM recommendations….everyone has the option to do what they think is best for themselves… Personally I like avoiding potential problems that I can possibly mitigate pre-emptively (I like not ever knowing about problems that didn’t happen ).

From prior life experience/training/education there are basically two issues at play which entail: 1) Is with the rubber taking a ‘set’ (losing resilience) or 2) Is it physically actually wearing out.

1) For low use time situations it can trend to be issue 1. The impeller just sits and doesn’t get much use but is still exposed to heat and cold. This can cause elastomers to become less resilient over time. Then when one does go to use it the impeller doesn’t flex resulting in lower water pressure/flow and reduced engine cooling capability. When the impeller takes a set it’s just not as effective generating pressure hence at pumping the cooling water through the smaller block cooling galleries.

2) For higher use time situations it can trend to be issue 2. Water isn’t a very good lubricant and the impeller tips are going around a lot! There is also the dirt/detritus/silt/pluff-mud-stuff that’s in the water which can/are abrasive which get trapped at the impeller-to-housing interfaces (top/bottom/sides) which result in wear to both the rubber impeller and housing.

In our case we put on 300 hours over two years which is an average of 150 hours per year so we have changed our impeller and replaceable housing liner three times so far (@100, @200 & @300 hrs). These changes also comply with the OEM recommendations and warranty aspects.
We kinda figure the OEM is wanting to have us enjoy a consistently reliable product so we figure it’s good advice. When we have checked the old vs. new impeller and replacement housing liner we can see that there has been some light wear evident on both items as well as some impeller fin set. Not any where near any potential failure but we have seen differences depending upon where and how we have been operating. As we raise our engine up out of the water while in the slip it get a strong dose of hot southern sunshine (No one of a right mind around here leaves the engine in the water due to the marine growth issues ). Given we hope to have our engine for a long reliable life it’s not much of a bother to follow the OEM recommendations and change it out at the general 100 hour intervals (especially seeing as we can time our haul outs and have a space to do this relatively easy task. The OEM service impeller kit is about $20 on Amazon and about $30 at my local dealer. So we’re not talking about much for cost. We’re changing upper and lower case oils, anodes, filters & plugs anyway so we’re already out of the water, in the driveway and working on the engine anyway….its not a problem… just part of the process.

Now, if we ever decide to pass Over Easy on to a new owner we know we have and can document that this engine has been properly serviced and maintained per the OEM recommendations since new via log book and receipts. (Something that couldn’t be said with certainty for the engine she came with.)

Yeah, I know some have run their engines for ‘years’ with the same impeller but I also know some who don’t change the oil or filters (on not only their outboards but their family cars….) either. NOT something that I would EVER recommend for anybody if avoidable.

What I do find annoying though when ordering the Suzuki 100 hour or Annual service kit is that some “genius” somewhere along the way decided that there would only be 3 replacement anodes in the kit whereas the engine needs 6 of them! Betch that was done by some boneheaded newbie weenie who A) didn’t look at the manual and B) only looked at the anodes on the outside of the engine and C) wasn’t cognizant enough to know that there are three of the same anodes in the engine head water gallery!!! ( FYI: For those interested the DF60AV has Two of the head anodes located on removable service ports and one is inside the top port opening bolted to the block. The other external anodes are two located on the engine mount and a third on the fil of the lower unit. Why they allowed this shortage of anodes in the kit and haven’t yet fixed this aspect of the service kit is beyond me… Once finding this out I just went ahead and ordered 12 extras to avoid any future hassle as the engine head anodes are quite important in avoiding internal block passage corrosion. Not something to skip or skimp on.)

Best Regards,
Over Easy