Duane Dunn, Allegro wrote: ... They also had one of the boats on the NEW trailer shipping with the 2007's. It is an hybrid steel / aluminum trailer. The main side rails are now a large aluminum channel. Where they join at the tounge they bolt together through a steel tounge assembly. The bow stop, ladder, tougne and coupler are steel. The theory is that that part doesn't get dunked so steel is OK while all the aft stuff is aluminum. I couldn't get in behind part of their display to see if the axle is steel or aluminum. ...
Even if the axle could be aluminum, which is very doubtful, the springs, spindles and brakes couldn't possibly avoid steel ... just a SWAG - they're all steel, including the axle.
It's still a terrific durability enhancement if the trailer frame and bunk supports are aluminum. (Aluminum's even better than galvanized~!)
I just got done my install over the weekend and it was no problem. The motor started on the first attempt and it is quieter then I expected actually you barely knew it was running and that was with the cowling off. I still need to hook all the wireing and cables up. No regrets on motor selection or doing it myself. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to mount after double and triple checking before I drilled the holes....more details to follow
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Apparently the boat also sits 4" lower in it than the previous version.
Duane Dunn, Allegro wrote:They also had one of the boats on the NEW trailer shipping with the 2007's. It is an hybrid steel / aluminum trailer. The main side rails are now a large aluminum channel. Where they join at the tounge they bolt together through a steel tounge assembly. The bow stop, ladder, tougne and coupler are steel. The theory is that that part doesn't get dunked so steel is OK while all the aft stuff is aluminum. I couldn't get in behind part of their display to see if the axle is steel or aluminum.
kmclemore...Very close ....1928 ... this was my project before I discovered sailing. I restored that car with my dad 20 yrs ago from the ground up it is not 100% show but it is 110% driveable. Mostly original except some chrome, rubber motor mounts and an alternater instead of a generator. I do not drive it much anymore but can't get rid of her either.
Frank ...What has more HP the boat or the Model A?
Duane Dunn, Allegro wrote:They also had transom wedges installed on both boats at the show. He said they gained 2 mph when they added the wedge.
OK, now you have my complete attention. I simply must know what size wedge and exactly how to mount the ob with one and where can I get it. I am a total newbie when it comes to mounting an ob with a wedge.
Can anyone help
U can't see me..... but I am on my knee's beggin... I do not want to mount the ob, then do it again a month later.
On a closer look at your pics, I noticed the stabs were not extended on your engine hoist. Mine says to make sure if you are going to extend the crane arm that you extend the feet also to offset the tipping tendency.
I'd suggest you call BWY and talk to Todd about the wedge for the exact dimensions. You should probably wait until Tuesday as they are at the Seattle Boat Show this final weekend, and are closed Mondays.
I would estimate that the wedge was about 1" thick at the top and tapers to nothing at the bottom. This tilts the motor back further than just mounting it flat. It is a hard plastic, starboard maybe, and is just placed between the motor bracket and the transom and held in place by the mounting bolts.
You should be able to find stock wedges of a variety of thicknesses made for this purpose.
I'm sure Todd can tell you how many degrees the wedge they are using is.
Beene,
We probably should have extended them but it was overlooked. When we lifted motor and crate we were about 2 inches short on clearance for the arm to reach so we exended the arm. After we lifted the motor about an inch I gave it a slight swing to make sure it was balanced and then disassembled the crate around the motor to free it. I believe the hoist was a 1/2 ton lift and we were less then 50% of the full capacity. I guess after-the-fact we should have extended the legs...
Without a doubt, you should set your outboard on wedges. Although my dealer had a plate wedge fabricated at a metals shop, and he also had them fabricate a matching trapezoidal lift bar for top of the transom ... but I doubt it's rocket science. The wedges are now stock items available at West Marine.
A standard wedge has the thicker portion at top, enabling the motor to trim-under the transom. This is needed for a boat that tends to ride bow-up, as the 26X (unsure of the M). Trimming farther under the transom will obviously help to solve a chronic bow-up attitude.
They also have "reverse wedges" on the same website ... for solving the opposite problem.
BWY found that installing a wedge added 2 mph to the top end of the M with a Suzuki 70. This is with the motor trimmed to the max down position with vs without the wedge. It get's you a full down motor angle that cannot be attained with the motor mounted directly to the transom.
My OB manual shows pictures of the mounting process to the transom. In those pics the transom looks more like one from a bass boat with a 20 deg toe in slant. I think the Mac is 0 deg. So, if I were to mount the OB the way it is, it looks like it would already be 20 deg toe out. I do not think that will be any good like that. I think there is adjustment for this on the motor, but I am not sure, perhaps changing bolt positions along the z axis would tilt it in closer. If I do that plus wedges, that should do the trick.
Duane, when you were at the show, did you happen to see if the 70 looked parallel to the transom at rest or was it tilted up so you couldn't tell?
Frank, am I thinking correctly to have the OB parallel to the transom while at max trim in/down?
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