Please, please find me a generator that kicks out 50 amps DC...
Yes, suposedly, the Honda eu1000i (and similar units) acutally generate DC, then convert to AC. But, at $600 and up, I'm not about to start taking mine apart... Their DC output is only 8 amps, otherwise.
Ultimately, thats the problem: How do you get that 1000w into DC form for your trolling motor. Now, a 50amp battery charger is pretty expensive too. So, the thing to do might just be to take a inverting generator apart, did someone say Kipor?
But, I do have a trolling motor mount that I fabricated to fit the dive ladder mount, and yes, I have a trolling motor under the aft berth. Its for emergency use only, and then my 'hope' is to have enough juice in the batteries to make it...
LINK 10?? Worth the bucks?
There are quite a few RVs that come with 40-60 amp single stage (i.e. 13.6-13.8 volt only) converters that take 120VAC and convert it to 13.8. They're about 75-80% efficient, so you're looking at close to the EU1000's max output for continuous running. You may find a pull-out at an RV shop since they're often upgraded to 3-stage charger/converters.
My concern would be start-up surge current. Maybe if you gradually increased speed.
--
Moe, at lunch
My concern would be start-up surge current. Maybe if you gradually increased speed.
--
Moe, at lunch
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Joe 26M Time Warp
- Engineer
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 5:00 am
- Location: Detroit, Michigan
I had my heart set on the Link 10 ~ all phun depended ~, then you had to add your 2 cents.
Price shopping;
Xantrex Truecharge 20 $237.95
Remote temperature probe $26.62
Xantrex Link 20 $281.68
Above from Hodgesmarine.com (free shipping)
The quote I got from atlanticomp.com (USPS & etc. members only) wasn't bad either but included $27.95 shipping.
Holding out to one day go solar...kmclemore wrote: One other note - the Link 20 has an 'alternative energy mode' wherein the first meter (Batt 1) will show the actual battery condition, and the second meter (Batt 2) will show cumulative input received from the charging source (like a solar bank, wind generator, etc.). I haven't used it in this mode yet - although I do have a 40W solar cell on my slider - but it sounds pretty cool.
Price shopping;
Xantrex Truecharge 20 $237.95
Remote temperature probe $26.62
Xantrex Link 20 $281.68
Above from Hodgesmarine.com (free shipping)
The quote I got from atlanticomp.com (USPS & etc. members only) wasn't bad either but included $27.95 shipping.
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walt
- First Officer
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:05 am
- Location: Colorado "Sea Eagle" 1990 26S
The solar monitoring capability is pretty cool.
Ive got to clean up my rats nest of wiring and this would be a good time to go to a link 20 since you have to wire in the shunts, ect (you guys convinced me and Im curious how much solar Im actually getting over a day).
I believe these monitors only have capability for two shunt current sensors total. I dont have a motor with electric start (26S wtih 8 hp) so Ill only have one battery bank (two 115 amp hour in parrellel - I could seperate these in an emergency) and would put one shunt sensor on this. The other shunt will be monitoring the current from a solar charge controller. Ill have one 20 watt panel permanently mounted on the deck of the boat which will supply my weekend needs and Im going to add a "when needed" higher power panel (may be 80 watts since I already have this) for more than a few days extended trips. The second panel will just get connected in parrellel with the permanent panel so the charge controller will need to be able to handle the combined current of both panels.
The backup electric trolling motor sounds somewhat interesting still because its lite and should store easy. Even at 50 amps, and assuming my batteries never got below 50%, in an emergency, I probably could still get 2 or possibly more hours use of the trolling motor before the batteries died. The drawback is that my batteries are mounted forward in the boat and Id want to move the battery back to the rear so that I didnt lose a ton of power in long "thin" wires.
My only hesitation is because when I got the boat, there were some obsolete and not working electronics mounted in the boat. But anything I mount would likely be the "next owners" problem and not mine.
Ive got to clean up my rats nest of wiring and this would be a good time to go to a link 20 since you have to wire in the shunts, ect (you guys convinced me and Im curious how much solar Im actually getting over a day).
I believe these monitors only have capability for two shunt current sensors total. I dont have a motor with electric start (26S wtih 8 hp) so Ill only have one battery bank (two 115 amp hour in parrellel - I could seperate these in an emergency) and would put one shunt sensor on this. The other shunt will be monitoring the current from a solar charge controller. Ill have one 20 watt panel permanently mounted on the deck of the boat which will supply my weekend needs and Im going to add a "when needed" higher power panel (may be 80 watts since I already have this) for more than a few days extended trips. The second panel will just get connected in parrellel with the permanent panel so the charge controller will need to be able to handle the combined current of both panels.
The backup electric trolling motor sounds somewhat interesting still because its lite and should store easy. Even at 50 amps, and assuming my batteries never got below 50%, in an emergency, I probably could still get 2 or possibly more hours use of the trolling motor before the batteries died. The drawback is that my batteries are mounted forward in the boat and Id want to move the battery back to the rear so that I didnt lose a ton of power in long "thin" wires.
My only hesitation is because when I got the boat, there were some obsolete and not working electronics mounted in the boat. But anything I mount would likely be the "next owners" problem and not mine.