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March wrote:The newer X models have stainless steel brackets that are much sturdier. BWY used to have them in stock. If you change your rudders to the more efficient IDAs, this is the way to go... but the mod is pretty expensive, if you add up all the parts plus the rudders.

They still show both styles in their online catalog. Same price, too, at $165US.

March wrote:I remember an older tread in which someone beefed up the aluminum brackets by welding two vertical aluminum plates on either side of the brackets.

That's what I thinking could be done the the Stainless steel brackets on the :macm:s .... Although I'm still wondering if my own brackets are already stronger than other :macm:s ... I guess time will tell

That brings up a good point: at some point, hitting something, backing into a rock, some disaster, the rudder mechanism is going to fail. Which part is the preferred failure point? As in, easiest to jury-rig, or least damaging to the boat?

Hmmm..... I see your point. If the rudder brackets bend then that could potentially reduce pressure on the rudders.

Yeah, it seems logical to have the part that is easiest to fix be the easiest to break. It would be a false economy to have a rudder system so robust that hitting a rock left it intact by ripping off the transom.

If you hit an obstacle with the rudders head-on: some people have installed rope clutches that snap open under pressure and release the rudders. I prefer to insert the rudder ropes UNDER the cleats (it takes a little effort to make a little loop and thread it through, but it works...) That provides enough friction and pressure to keep the rudders in place under normal conditions, but they would snap up easily under pressure... I hope. Never came to that.

But if you hit an underwater object with the rudders at an angle, that won't work. But neither will the more expensive clutch, I'd warrant

March wrote:...insert the rudder ropes UNDER the cleats (it takes a little effort to make a little loop and thread it through, but it works...)

Nice Tip, Thanks

March wrote:If you hit an obstacle with the rudders head-on: some people have installed rope clutches that snap open under pressure and release the rudders. I prefer to insert the rudder ropes UNDER the cleats (it takes a little effort to make a little loop and thread it through, but it works...) That provides enough friction and pressure to keep the rudders in place under normal conditions, but they would snap up easily under pressure... I hope. Never came to that.

But if you hit an underwater object with the rudders at an angle, that won't work. But neither will the more expensive clutch, I'd warrant

These r the quick release cleats u can use as I did they r not expensive here in N/American continent




J
PS by the way the release pressure is adjustable from light release to hard release

Highlander, where did you find these clutches? Roger

I think the brackets should not hold the rudders at all.
It should be the pivot bolt that takes all the force from the rudders if the hole in the rudder itself is a tight fit.
in the past I have bent the brackets, the pivot bolt broke first starboard then port side,
I then upgraded to high grade steel bolts but it rust in no time in salt water, finally I had a welding shop weld re-inforcements on the brackest and I
uograded to 1/2" stainless pivot bolt. On the rudders I got a 1/2" brass pipe-nipple and I drilled the hole over size and epoxied it in place. It fit perfectly over the bolt
and now there is almost no slop in the pivot bolt and as the bolt take the load, the brackets are doing fine.
Since then I have sailed in large waves and strong winds with no problems.
Last summer I sailed 10miles at 7-8 knots dipping to 6 now and then fastest sailing ever on my boat. My adult son and his 2 friends were on the high side on the cabin top just like the racers do
Others may have different solutions but this fixed the problems for me and I have much more confidence when it starts to get rough.

Norca wrote:Last summer I sailed 10miles at 7-8 knots dipping to 6 now and then fastest sailing ever on my boat. My adult son and his 2 friends were on the high side on the cabin top just like the racers do

So are the rudders brackets bending while fast heeling too?

So are the rudders brackets bending while fast heeling too?

The newer X models have stainless steel brackets that are much sturdier. BWY used to have them in stock. If you change your rudders to the more efficient IDAs, this is the way to go... but the mod is pretty expensive, if you add up all the parts plus the rudders.

I had the stainless brackets on my 02X, they are better, but still not great. In normal conditions they are adequate. Motorsailing at an angle to waves in poor conditions lifting and letting the boat slide would bend them open at the top and bottom of the bracket. Then the rudder would flop around no matter how tight the bolt was pinching the pivot until fixed again.

Estate Sail wrote:Highlander, where did you find these clutches? Roger

Here,s a link as to what u r lookin for , u should b able to find them at ur local sailboat chandlery
http://shop.foghmarine.com/chandlery/ha ... 24215.html

http://www.clamcleat.com/products/cleat ... e-kit.html
Hope this help,s u out

J

Anyone know if i can safely drill and bush the plastic idarudders as Norca did?
Ix

J, have you ever had the cam cleats let go. I have one on the dinghy and was surprised with the force when I hit something. It embedded itself in my wooden tiller