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I'm thinking this is my new transom Thru Hull fitting. Its compact enough, and it removes one plastic fitting from the equation.

https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... thc-1000-s

paul I wrote:I'm thinking this is my new transom Thru Hull fitting. Its compact enough, and it removes one plastic fitting from the equation.

https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... thc-1000-s

They also make flush mount fittings, might require a substantial build up below the well but you wouldn't end up with scummy water sitting in there.

Yeah, isn't that weird how you often see these bronze fittings mixed with chrome and stainless? I always thought that was strange but I did have a fitting in salt water that was bronze on one end and stainless on the other and the two metals seemed to get along together just fine. I did not know you could mix different metals in salt water, but i guess some of them are okay.

Anyways, I really like the idea of a chrome (stainless) thru hull with a bronze valve - I suppose this company might make a fitting like that with a thread instead of a barb?

... I would like to find one of those!

Chrome and stainless are two very different things the above is 316 stainless and silicon bronze. SS and bronze do well together as they are both fairly noble, bronze and chrome plated brass would not fair so well as the zinc content of the brass would disappear in a period of days to a few years depending on the conditions. Also mixing galvanised metals don't work as they are usually just a sacrificial zinc coating.

Paul, might look at cockpit scuppers in place of a thru hull for the motor well. Flush mount with a strainer to avoid unseen clogs the factory setup is prone too. Just to be clear the chrome plated bronze is not chrome plated brass.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/plumbin ... and-drains

I still would rather have one hole in the hull than two. I saw the big boats do it with the least amount of holes:



But it is hard to find an electric valve that is made of bronze. I guess a manual valve would do the trick - there are a LOT of manual ball valves out there made of bronze so I guess that would work with those Stainless thru hull fittings:



And they even have those tee fittings with a barb so you can hook up the sink and the motor well! :



The manual valve takes up even less room than the electric one but Russ is right - it's a big pain in the aftsection to use it! (I guess it does not matter really for me since I don't have a slip for 'boat', right?)

BOAT wrote:

Yeah, isn't that weird how you often see these bronze fittings mixed with chrome and stainless? I always thought that was strange but I did have a fitting in salt water that was bronze on one end and stainless on the other and the two metals seemed to get along together just fine. I did not know you could mix different metals in salt water, but i guess some of them are okay.

Anyways, I really like the idea of a chrome (stainless) thru hull with a bronze valve - I suppose this company might make a fitting like that with a thread instead of a barb?

... I would like to find one of those!

I think the inner threads that the 90 threads into are standard NPT 1". You could conceivably thread in any 1" male NPT bronze fitting you would like.

yukonbob wrote: Paul, might look at cockpit scuppers in place of a thru hull for the motor well. Flush mount with a strainer to avoid unseen clogs the factory setup is prone too. Just to be clear the chrome plated bronze is not chrome plated brass.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/plumbin ... and-drains

Thanks Bob. I appreciate the replies. I certainly will look into a scupper whenever I need to replace the fitting in the motor well. Right now the transom drain is my immediate issue, since it is the one that is leaking.

paul I wrote:

BOAT wrote:

Yeah, isn't that weird how you often see these bronze fittings mixed with chrome and stainless? I always thought that was strange but I did have a fitting in salt water that was bronze on one end and stainless on the other and the two metals seemed to get along together just fine. I did not know you could mix different metals in salt water, but i guess some of them are okay.

Anyways, I really like the idea of a chrome (stainless) thru hull with a bronze valve - I suppose this company might make a fitting like that with a thread instead of a barb?

... I would like to find one of those!

I think the inner threads that the 90 threads into are standard NPT 1". You could conceivably thread in any 1" male NPT bronze fitting you would like.

Hey Bob,

Is that true? What valve would they use up in the Yukon on that stainless thru hull? I can screw a valve right onto the thru hull, right? I got plenty of room inside the transom for it.

paul I wrote:
I think the inner threads that the 90 threads into are standard NPT 1". You could conceivably thread in any 1" male NPT bronze fitting you would like.

Groco says NPS but they are not too clear as to which threading, but assume its the female threads.

BOAT wrote: But it is hard to find an electric valve that is made of bronze. I guess a manual valve would do the trick - there are a LOT of manual ball valves out there made of bronze so I guess that would work with those Stainless thru hull fittings:

Not hard at all, just don't look at the price https://www.groco.net/products/valves-s ... tric-valve

You should look at the handles on the Groco seacocks/ball valves as the... "Handle has square hole to accept standard ratchet to help reach valves in hard-to-reach locations and ease actuation of difficult to operate valves", I'm sure you could rig up an extension to the companionway ladder...

yukonbob wrote:

paul I wrote:
I think the inner threads that the 90 threads into are standard NPT 1". You could conceivably thread in any 1" male NPT bronze fitting you would like.

Groco says NPS but they are not too clear as to which threading, but assume its the female threads.

BOAT wrote: But it is hard to find an electric valve that is made of bronze. I guess a manual valve would do the trick - there are a LOT of manual ball valves out there made of bronze so I guess that would work with those Stainless thru hull fittings:

Not hard at all, just don't look at the price https://www.groco.net/products/valves-s ... tric-valve

You should look at the handles on the Groco seacocks/ball valves as the... "Handle has square hole to accept standard ratchet to help reach valves in hard-to-reach locations and ease actuation of difficult to operate valves", I'm sure you could rig up an extension to the companionway ladder...

Hey Bob!

They have it in stainless for 60 bucks:

Or you can get it in bronze for 33 bucks!!:

And your right! I could easily rig a rope pull that would slam the valve shut with just a couple of cheek blocks mounted on mahogany screwed to the liner where it covers the motor well! And easy mod! That hole in the handle would work great for that!

Ya the valve is only 30-60$ but you still need a scupper (or similar) a one or two thru hulls withflanged adapter so probably closer to $200-$300 by the time it’s all done, still way cheaper than refloating a boat. I figured you would go with an old socket wrench and a length is bar with some pad eyes or something along those lines. Some sort of straight bar and handle similar to the ballast gate valve that when closed it would stick out into the ladder??

yukonbob wrote:Ya the valve is only 30-60$ but you still need a scupper (or similar) a one or two thru hulls withflanged adapter so probably closer to $200-$300 by the time it’s all done, still way cheaper than refloating a boat. I figured you would go with an old socket wrench and a length is bar with some pad eyes or something along those lines. Some sort of straight bar and handle similar to the ballast gate valve that when closed it would stick out into the ladder??

Not really Bob, all you need is a rope pull to slam the valve shut - it's only for emergency so there is no need to have a mechanism to open it - just to close the valve:



I would put a solid backing plate on it to make sure I don't pull the thru hull right out of the boat!

Do you think a plastic valve would be better????

ABYC says thru hulls should take 400lbs or constant load for a lot of reasons I can think of. A full cooler, a downriver or any heavy object sliding and striking it could create considerable more force than that. That combined with the UV degradation would you feel comfortable with a plastic thru hull that could potentially put you, your boat and your expensive outboard in the water? Your diagram has mismatched threads, just bugging

yukonbob wrote:ABYC says thru hulls should take 400lbs or constant load for a lot of reasons I can think of. A full cooler, a downriver or any heavy object sliding and striking it could create considerable more force than that. That combined with the UV degradation would you feel comfortable with a plastic thru hull that could potentially put you, your boat and your expensive outboard in the water? Your diagram has mismatched threads, just bugging

Threads? It's an excel spreadsheet! Give me a break! It's supposed to be a barb on the end - not threads! (Oh well, so much for my drawing abilities - I meed Tom to help me)

Will the Mahogany backboard be strong enough with a stainless thru hull and a bronze valve so that my cooler will not break it?

ya the backing is plenty and you can install threaded inserts and studs to act as through bolts for the flange adapter without putting three more holes through the hull while spreading the load over a greater area especially important in thinner hull layups.