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No essay required - stainless is one of the poorest conducting metals of heat. Just try welding it! But not insurmountable by a long shot. I didn't expect ceramic either!

I'm appalled at your lack of knowledge of this predisposition to spall. How galling!

seahouse wrote:No essay required - stainless is one of the poorest conducting metals of heat. Just try welding it! But not insurmountable by a long shot. I didn't expect ceramic either!

Cheap Chinese stainless brake parts could rust and cause the brakes to hang up I have SS fastners from HD that have rusted.

I give my truck calipers a good hammer whack when we rotate the tires.

Bob

Keep us posted Colonel... Let us know if we need to send in the Civil Bearing Patrol

Two wheel bearings were sailing in a race, with rollers, until one of the spun out because he watching seals

Keep us posted Colonel... Let us know if we need to send in the Civil Bearing Patrol

…and meanwhile we’ll talk amongst ourselves…and listen to some classic Catigale groaners while you toil away...

Two wheel bearings were sailing in a race, with rollers, until one of the spun out because he watching seals

or ... how 'bout an ... essay?….

There are dozens of grades of stainless, and the alloys commonly used for nuts and bolts are usually magnetic, cheaper, less rust-resistant, but stronger. As you’ve likely noticed, if you’ve used them much, stainless screws are not as strong as their steel, and alloy steel, counterparts. So there is a strength trade-off happening to be aware of.

Stainless fasteners for marine applications (usually non-magnetic) are more corrosion-resistant than these magnetic hardware- store fasteners, but are softer (= weaker). But even these contain some steel and therefore will not be completely rust-free in all conditions.

Also be aware that under some conditions stainless steel can corrode in pits, like tooth decay, without showing the tell-tale red-rust colouration that we are all familiar with.

OK. It's not really an essay because I didn't go into the protective oxide layer that stainless, like aluminum, has that everybody already knows about.

- Brian.

My personal favorite for stainless steel is PH 17-4, used this for tools I designed for the F-16.
Excellent strength and corrosion resistance. Plus heat treatment is very simple, can practically do this at home in the oven. Lastly, finish by passivation - essentially just an acid dip to burn those pesky iron atoms out of the surface layer.

Follow-up.

Both brakes were engaged. Piston out pushing the pads against the disk (rotor??) Couldn't get it to retract.

So we removed the wheels. Removed the calipers. Removed the pads. Couldn't put the calipers back on because they move around too much without the pads to hold them in place. So I secured both calipers to the frame...good ol' Duct Tape worked a charm.

Looked over the hubs at both ends. Everything looked fine. So I did not take them apart. Put the wheels back on and then used the grease gun on the grease fitting of the bearing buddy and filled them up with fresh grease which pushed out most of the old grease.

Everything worked fine. I trailered about 70 miles today to get the boat/truck weighed and then take it to a friends house for storage for a week. Checked the bearings/hubs several times. No heat, no leaking grease. Boat is parked.

If I have issues on the 1000 mile trip next weekend then I will deal with it then but I don't think I will have any issues. With my new double-axel trailer and long-bed full-size pick-up the lack of brakes is not a big issue or concern. I will get the brakes fixed and re-installed once I get down to Mississippi in a few weeks.

Thanks again for all the tips/advice.

Cheers,
JIm

Jim,

I hoped you locked out the surge brake at the trailer tongue - otherwise you have the chance of popping the pistons out of the calipers - it happens to the best of us once in awile

Did not do that. If they do "pop out" they won't go far...they are wrapped up in about 5 layers of duct tape.

If the valving is preventing the calipers from retracting, one will come out while the other is pushed in (C-clamp and some wood). If they're just plain stuck, you're better off just popping on two new calipers and bleeding the system. I doubt the old ones are salvagable, but I don't know that for fact.

Then you'll have brakes for the ride home. Putting new ones on are as easy as taking the old ones off, but in reverse.

My guess is the pistons rusted in place.....rusted bring used generically here...since you drive cautiously and prudently, I think your approach is sound

Safe travels...

Stephen,

I agree. I think I backed it in...brakes were engaged...I didn't pull back forward...pistons "seized" (or whatever the technical term is) in the extended position. Might have been this way for the whole season for all I know. My normal trip is about 100 yards from parking spot to ramp so never really had a chance to notice.

I just don't have time to get anything done in my last 8 days here in Virginia. I am a conservative driver when towing. Max speed will be 65 and I don't follow folks to close. 98% of my trip back to Mississippi will be interstate. So driving without brakes is not a big concern for me.

Once back in the Magnolia State I will have lots of time on my hands and Konig will be sitting in my driveway for the next 6 months or more as I concentrate on completing my required time for the CG certification on my new boat. Will repair this fall when it cools down.

Cheers,
Jim

Well maybe I can make it down there during my travels and see if we can't fix you up....

In Europe, hydraulic trailer brakes are not allowed. Calipers and disks are not used at all.

Drumbrakes with shoes operated by wire is the standard.



On boat trailers, a standard water hose coupling is often added to the wheel hub for flushing inside the brake drum after dipping the trailer in salt water.