MacGregorSailors.com

Wind Chime wrote:I was at the boat yesterday doing brake maintenance, and was thinking about putting expanding foam inside the steel trailer tounge.

We rebuilt our 2000 steel factory trailer a few years ago and replaced the steel tonge tube. The tonge gets submerged in salt water during most launchings and even though I insert the hose inside the tube to rinse, its bare steel inside so just a matter is time.

Do ya think expanding foam will help keep the salt water out of the tube and away for the bare steel, or will the foam just get saturated with salt water and make the eventual erosion worse?

I don't think foam is the right thing, especially with saltwater.

I have had good results protecting metal stuff with this: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust- ... 7921p.html

Wind Chime wrote:Do ya think expanding foam will help keep the salt water out of the tube and away for the bare steel, or will the foam just get saturated with salt water and make the eventual erosion worse?

You should probably reconsider the product in this post, on page 2 of this thread.

extreem wrote:Here is a product I have used. It works great for coating the inside of a frame. Also good for stopping existing rust.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... le-qt.html

Why not stainless square tube for the tongue? Just cost?
What about heavily fiberglassed wood?
Ix

Tomfoolery wrote:

Wind Chime wrote:Do ya think expanding foam will help keep the salt water out of the tube and away for the bare steel, or will the foam just get saturated with salt water and make the eventual erosion worse?

You should probably reconsider the product in this post, on page 2 of this thread.

extreem wrote:Here is a product I have used. It works great for coating the inside of a frame. Also good for stopping existing rust.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... le-qt.html

The problem with that aerosol anti-rust internal spray seems to be that it only has a 2 foot hose extension to go inside and the tongue is like 6 or 8 feet long. That means only the end end of the tongue section by the actuator would actually get painted the rest of the inside of steel inside the tonge would still be exposed - would it not?

Wind Chime wrote:

Tomfoolery wrote:

Wind Chime wrote:Do ya think expanding foam will help keep the salt water out of the tube and away for the bare steel, or will the foam just get saturated with salt water and make the eventual erosion worse?

You should probably reconsider the product in this post, on page 2 of this thread.

extreem wrote:Here is a product I have used. It works great for coating the inside of a frame. Also good for stopping existing rust.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... le-qt.html

The problem with that aerosol anti-rust internal spray seems to be that it only has a 2 foot hose extension to go inside and the tongue is like 6 or 8 feet long. That means only the end end of the tongue section by the actuator would actually get painted the rest of the inside of steel inside the tonge would still be exposed - would it not?

That's true, and I was looking at the pics in the listing for that reason, but you could always just use a longer hose.

Or drill a few holes in strategic areas? I'd flush the trailer with fresh water and let it dry before applying a rust-proofing product.

Here in Montreal, we have PLENTY of garages that offer full rust-proofing services for almost any vehicle. I brought my trailer in for a full rust-treatment at one of these, and it cost me $60 to have a professional spray an industrial product in every corner of the trailer. My trailer is a tubular steel design, so every beam is fully enclosed, but they were able to thread their application hoses up into all the nooks and crannies.

https://www.krown.com/. Available in the USA!

When rebuilding my brakes this last year (new inner coupling assembly, solenoid broke off) I found a massive amount of corrosion inside the 3 inch square tube. I did liberally apply Rustoleum paint to the inside of the tube to slow down the damage but I need to replace the tube (I used a furniture duster - like a old feather type but made of poly/wool - taped to a metal channel). I thought about using 3x3 carbon steel tube like the trailer now has and using POR-15 paint but the area the bolts go thru to bolt to the aluminium rails would be a place I could not protect - corrosion would go right under the paint. I am currently leaning towards a 3x4 stainless steel channel (304 and 316 available). There are welding rods available for stainless to regular carbon steel - to reattach the ladder/winch. By using 3x4 channel, I can then use a bolt on outer coupler from UFP. When this rusts, I can just bolt on another.

I am currently leaning towards a 3x4 stainless steel channel (304 and 316 available).

Stainless steel work hardens and becomes brittle and is not a good choice for the draw bar. I am also looking at doing the same replacement in a year or so as the rust is slowly winning the battle. I intend to use SHS steel make and weld it all up then get the lot hot dip galvanised as one piece.

Hi Kadet, that's what I did 2 years ago now. Used 100mm x 100mm box as it fills the channel better & went to the more easily avail in Aust & NZ standard Trojan brake cylinder & coupling. I did reuse the Mac ladder. Hot dip galv is the only way to go.
Here's two photos of before the winch & hitch assy were fitted.

"Buell_S1W"]Hi Kadet, that's what I did 2 years ago now. Used 100mm x 100mm box as it fills the channel better & went to the more easily avail in Aust & NZ standard Trojan brake cylinder & coupling. I did reuse the Mac ladder. Hot dip galv is the only way to go.
Here's two photos of before the winch & hitch assy were fitted.

You stole my plan, ok you did it first I stole your plan. Great minds

Already have an Alko override coupling and master cylinder But I am thinking of upgrading to a Trojan Duratorque axle and stainless brakes when I do the draw bar.

Those with the non galv drawbars really need to take them out and inspect them every 3 or 4 years if you can see a lot of rust in there. My last one started to bend (was failing). I had the marina weld me up a new one about three years ago and asked for it to be hot dip galved but they reckoned they couldnt get it done so I just painted it.

It was looking pretty bad with rust a few days ago, but I have it out right now, and have just got rid of all the rust and painted it with a rust converter. I got rid of most of the rust in the inside with a wirebrush/scraper taped to a long bit of wood. I then painted the inside of the drawbar with rust converter with a kitchen sponge wrapped around (and cable tied on) to that piece of wood. I will paint it black the same way in a few days.

I will then use another kitchen sponge to coat the inside in fishoil or the other product I have (which I cant remember the name of right now). Its easy enough to wrap a sponge around a broom stick and coat the inside now and again.



Another thing I'm going to do is slap a bit of paint on the trailer where the stainless bolts and washers go to bolt the drawbar on. Its scary seeing how big the bolt holes in the aluminum have become through corrosion.

Wow now I can see why the draw bar is so troublesome on the Alu Trailers too.
When I replaced my drawbar (on my steel trailer) I bought pre-galvanised metal box section and specified a metal (wall) thickness 3 to 4 times the thickness of your drawbar!! ... Not impress Rodger