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Hi,

I intend to lead all halyards aft into the cockpit which will mean putting rope clutches on the cabin roof.

Is the fibreglass thick enough to use self tapping screws or do I need to use nuts, bolts and backing washers ? Any one else done this ?

If I need to drill holes for bolts, presumably I also have to drill holes on the inside through the tan coloured lining. If so any thoughts on how these are covered up afterwards. There seem to be a bunch of colour matched blanking plugs used already in the boat - any idea where to get more of these from ?

Cheers

I put clutches in myself too and good thing I planned to use bolts with nuts & washers, the cabin top is not very thick and I would not use self tapping screws after what I saw. I got a few of those plugs from the dealer, he had various sizes of them but they were white so needed painting. Be sure the washers will fit through a hole that you buy the plug size for since you will be restricted to drilling a hole the size of an available plug/cap. The bolts cannot be too long either or they will extend too far through to cover with a cap, you need a specific length and size. Drill the pilot hole all the way through to be sure the inside hole aligns with the outside one, then use a small hole saw to cut through. Start cutting with the drill in reverse to start the cut then switch to forward on both sides. It is not too difficult.

solent,if the blanking plugs are like the ones on the they come out quite easily

im intending to fit tripple clutches on both sides ajacent to the winches,ive had a look and my game plan is to use bolts and washers,i intend to run my reefing,vang and an outhaul aft

Bill from Boats 4 sail was installing rope clutches on our boat. They are through bolted. In the cabin there are two ~ 3” diameter holes in the inner liner covered with round mirror discs. I don’t know where Bill got those disks from or if they come standard with the boat. The discs are secured with self taping bolts into the liner. I have covered one of the discs with a smoke detector.

The round mirrors are stock. I asked at the factory about the plugs, they paint them at the factory and are actually white. I would through bolt any cleats myself. Rather than use plugs, I would take advantage of the hardpoint and mount something to the underside. I can think of a lot of items I would like to secure to the overhead, stowage, lighting, handholds and a strippers dance pole come to mind.

pole is easy - just need to find the stripper!

Before implementing a halyard[s]-led-aft mod that involves installing turning blocks and rope clutches, I would encourage you to consider mounting one or two Harken “up-release” exit pivot blocks at the base of the mast. With any other system that moves the point where the halyard[s] are cleated off of the mast, there is a resulting pull to the side that inhibits mast rotation and results in inconsistent luff tension from one tack to the other. The unit shown in this [old] photo is a Harken 140.

As you can see, the tensioned segment of the halyard is confined to the mast and the starboard mast-base turning block that was formerly part of our main-halyard-led-aft system is no longer is use. In the photo, the spinnaker halyard has been led aft through a port mast-base turning block and the stacked cheek block that was originally installed for the main-halyard-led-aft system [we have our jib on a furler, so the former jib halyard now runs through a block attached to a new hound that has been positioned higher on the mast for spinnaker-only duty].

For this season [not shown in the photo], the spinnaker halyard has been replaced with a 1/4" line that also is also secured to an “up-release” exit pivot block - in this case, a smaller Harken 291 unit - that is attached to the port side of the mast and faces forward [allowing me to operate it while standing in the front hatch]. The 1/4" white-with-red-fleck line in the photo is a mod that provides positive mast rotation control from the cockpit. On the starboard side, it is now led aft through the stacked cheek block, instead of the track-mounted block in the photo.

I used the mod Parrothead is explaining using the Harken 140 pivoting cleat. I really like the way it works.

I am in the process of installing a v cleat near the cabin to hold the line in place so it is always where it needs to be when the needs arise.

I may use the v cleat to work in conjunction with a downhaul system and eleminate lines in the cockpit, an endless loop setup. If my thinking is right the harken will hold the halyard in place like it does now and let the v cleat keep the downhaul snug and in control.

At any rate give Parrotheads idea some thought, as I have already said I like it alot.

Gary

Geat idea Parrothead - I had not really thought about luff tension changing from tack to tack. Thanks Kevin

Through bolt with backing washers on each bolt/nut - one inch washers are about right size. When you drill the deck drill down through the liner, then you can use that hole as a guide for the pilot hole for the 1 1/4 hole saw to cut the access plug from below.

I am using Parrothead's Harken 140 pivoting cleat idea, actually he was suggesting it to me when I got my M in April - that is a great idea! Mounts in less than 3 min, just drill a couple of holes in the mast and use a riveting gun. No need for turning blocks or drilling holes in the boat........
Hans

Have you used aluminum rivets? Are they holding okay or do I need to go with stainless steel?

I used aluminum rivets [there are holes for 3 of them in the piece of the Harken 140 unit that mounts on the mast], installed the mod a year ago and have not seen any evidence of deterioration. It's really nice to have precise control of the tension on the luff, and to have it stay consistent from one tack to the other.

Thanks for the quick reply Parrothead and for the great mod info. I'll be doing this tomorrow.