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for those who have successfully fitted a bracket to carry a small kicker outboard, outside of either rudder.
Rather than cut a large round access hole to get at the washers and nuts , would it be practical to drill four holes each with a vertical narrower slot and have the four [ or more] bolts, washers and nuts already mounted in the main bracket, and then place the whole unit against the transon and slide it down the slots. this would place the washers and nuts INSIDE the transom. Then they could be tightened from the OUTSIDE. the larger round holes that the washers passed through could then be glassed up...
Any thoughts?
Puggsy 06

The video I saw on epoxy vs polyester resin bonding showed epoxy to be stronger than the original bonding - so in that sense it would be a good idea. That you would be cutting the glass that you are trying to spread the stresses to it might be a bad idea. You should see stress cracks developing before complete failure occurs so you could watch and see if any develop but if the failure occurs when you are fighting a wicked chop, there might be no warning and you would loose the motor. So if you are in the US take the safest way and open up the backside but if you are in OZ just do it and toss another chop on the barbie

pugsy,i see what your getting at.I went with the big hole,i bought a cheap hole saw and made the 6 inch hole for an acess hatch,that gave me the scope to reinforce the inside of the transome,i used flat bar as opposed to just large washers,it is my hope that this will spread the forces around a bit,when that kicker is bouncing off of the stern in a 6ft chop,youll be glad you did

The big question to ask is; Can I get at the nuts/bolts to remove/replace/repair if necessary. Although the system you suggest (Keyhole method) would work, how do you access if necessary to retighten etc.

Just a wild a$$ thought.

For that very odd occasion when the main motor packs in why wouldn't this work:

Remove one rudder (one 3/8th bolt) make up and attach an engine bracket to the small kicker, that would slide into the rudder slot, then reef up your one bolt again, and off you go!.............No?????

I was drilling through the hull above the rudders and was planning to cut the liner on the inside. Surprisingly I found that I had hand with access to the bolts coming through. This left me room for a back-up plate manufactured to the bolt pattern from the motor mount. It was a very tight are to work in and I had to ask my son with his smaller hands to help me getting the washers and nuts on. However, the whole mounting mod took me about two hours incl. manufacturing some wedges out of plastic cutting board to match the transom contour of the boat.

Thanks, guys for the feedback...I have not done the mod yet but have a 5 hp longshaft tohatsu looking for a home. Its no good sitting in the shed.
Puggsy.

Just a wild a$$ thought.

For that very odd occasion when the main motor packs in why wouldn't this work:

Remove one rudder (one 3/8th bolt) make up and attach an engine bracket to the small kicker, that would slide into the rudder slot, then reef up your one bolt again, and off you go!.............No?????

Thats a great idea! You could fab this out of wood to slide into the rudder brackets, then have a T shape to mount your kicker on the back side

A small engine would be fine with just the two rudder mount bolts.

I just put a Fulton mount on my to hold my tender motor while trailering and cruising, I was able to mount this in a place where it is both storage for the engine as well as an aux power if the Merc fails.

I was able to drill the transom holes and attach the hardware without cutting any access holes, just trimming the FB liner under the transom inside the boat. Pix to follow.