MacGregorSailors.com

The weather here is warming up, and I just noticed this the other day. The winch to pull Nice Aft onto the trailer seems to be pulled away from its support. I don't know if it has always been like this or not? As I said, I just noticed it.

The first shot is a side view.


The second shot is a close up from below.


It is not loose at all. In fact, quite firm. Has anyone seen this before

Ray

I haven't seen that on my Ray. Looks ugly. I'd suggest you have that thing off of there, hammer it back flat, re-bolt it to the frame and then get a welder to run a couple of short beads down each side.

From the pictures, it appears that the winch body is cracked. If I am viewing this correctly then just replace the winch. It will be cheaper and take less time then welding and hammering.

In the future you might consider the weight of winter snow and let some tension off when you store the boat.

My winch ripped apart like that too. I just replaced it. The new one is a lot sturdier.

I agree with CMikey. You might want to replace the whole thing, adding some U shaped brackets to keep the winch against the bar--just in case. But it's hard to believe that the culpit is the winter snow that gradually accummulated on the boat. The boat is pretty well balanced on the trailer (given flat ground, of course) to the point that even when I forgot to secure the whinch and pulled the boat up the ramp, the boat didn't slip back more than a few inches. Enough for a pucker factor, but it was not a disaster... and the lesson was duly noted and learned

The snow will mostly weigh her down. It looks more likely that the winch plate underwent some metal fatigue, and last time you pulled her out of the water, it bent the plate. Or: the weakened plate got even more twisted on the road back home.

I have added an extra safety link to the winch that I also snap on, once the boat's out of the water

I have a friend who had the same thing happen to his 26S. He does not like to drive it onto the trailer like it shows in my 26M video, he would rather rather winch it up tight on the ramp. He thinks the winch is too light weight and at the wrong angle. The winch pulls down on the bow the last few inches and not forward "alla the mac bump". He not only replaced the winch but changed the angle also.

Mine will not winch up the remaining gap that appears after pulling out so I don't even try. I drive on as far as I can when on the ramp and bump it the rest of the way in the parking lot.

Wally

Thanks fella's

It looks like I'm getting a new winch. Before I start my search, are there any suggestions from those who have already done this? Where is the best deal?

By the way. I finished my latest painting. It's not nautical, but I thought I would take the opportunity to show it while I was posting a thank you. It' s the Muir woods (Redwood Forest) outside San Francisco.



Ray

Nice aRt, Nice Aft!

Judging by your emoticon you're not too enthusiatic about buying a new winch. I wouldn't be either. There might be another option, based SOLELY on what I see in your pictures. (So that is my disclaimer... I might be out to LAUNCH!) If the winch is otherwise quite functional and servicable, and the only thing wrong with it is this weakness, then you could make it better than new by reinforcing that area, and you might not even have to go to the trouble/ expense of welding the split.

Depending on how skilled you are with your hands (and by the looks of your watercolour I doubt that's an issue) you could make up a large square "washer" that fits inside the winch that replaces the existing thin washer - looks like there's clearance for it in there. I'm guessing something about 4" X 4" by 1/4" or 5/16" thick, from the scrap bin, or metal shop. I'm also guessing that's about a 3/8" bolt holding it together, use that if it's long enough, or use a longer one, and maybe go up a size (drill it open) say to 1/2". Drill a clearance hole for the bolt in the square "washer" in the proper location. If you go with a longer, heavier screw it will bend the curve (almost) flat again and pull the whole thing together (maybe even without any hammering, and therefore complete removal of the winch, beforehand) as you tighten it.

Sound like a lot of work? Well don't forget to figure in the work that would be involved in replacing the whole winch with a newer one...removal of old one, maybe drilling out some holes for the new one...

Maybe this is a solution of philosophy; if the winch were a Macgregor boat and we found a weakness, we wouldn't throw it out and buy another one, we'd fix the weakness and make it a better one than before!

Warmest Regards - Brian.

Brian,

The reason I'm going for the new winch is that I am concerned about metal fatigue. The bending out, and then in again of the winch housing is my worry. I would rather get a new winch, than worry about a problem every time I exert force on the winch. I appreciate the post, but I have already spoken with the Admiral, and she is perfectly fine with the purchase.

Thanks for your kind words about my artwork.

Ray

Hi Ray --

Then of course a new winch will give you peace of mind!

-Brian.

Ray

Go for a new winch but upgrade if you check out your winch I think you'll find that it barely meets your requirements weight factor if I remember right when I checked Beene's I think his was only good for 1100# , I seen this happen to Beene's winch when he reloaded his boat at my MARINA which has a very steep hill on the ramp , boat weight + eng +fuel + equip, = at least 3500# so go figure I'll check out this morn when I get home around 02.00hrs & let you know what mine is good for I have an electric winch that I took off my fishing boat when I sold it last yr & will be installing it at sometime on my mac trl


J

That winch dose not cost much, call us we'll send you one, call your dealer, he'll send you one. Its just money. I have done that before only on boats with bottom paint, sticky to trailer, the smooth boat just slide up, once with the daggerboard down a little, tore the winch up. Kind of think you won't need to reinforce, just replace but no need to go heavy duty, I think, maybe.
Mike Inmon

Ray - the winch doesnt need to be rated for the full weight of the boat, of course. 1000# is probably sufficient IME

Always enjoy your artwork - Im an avid photographer but whenever I think I am an artist one of you guys who really creates something puts me in my place - I am merely a recorder of natures beauty.

Ray;

Of course you have a problem - - - but fortunately for you this time - - - it's your winch

Rick

PS I LOVE your latest artwork shown above. Scenes of that type appeal to my calm demeaner and nature

Well said,

"That winch dose not cost much", Cheap I'll lay you od's that the strap is rated higher than the winch , the manufacturer rates the winch for a reason .
My Alum continental trl for my has a winch that has a gear box "teeth on the gears" that are more than double the size & strength of my trl & the metal housing is twice as thick meaning that sucker is not going to bend any where the gear box also has a higher ratio meaning your not busting your back trying to load up on a steep ramp in shallow water, I can not read the rating as the spare tire is covering the spec's plate !
My trl also has a 1100# winch on it which is inadequate at best ! ok for low raise ramps in deep water just look at the strength of the locking mechanisim ! I always trl my boat with a safety chain in place from the bow eye to the trl winch post that I will be adding another support strut to the front of @ some point ! along with my electric winch I removed from another boat trl I had just my 2 cents worth !

Anyway Ray buy yourself a heavier rated winch with a higher gear ratio & when you get to those steep boat ramps you will not be busting your ! OK Back loading up the boat just makes life alot easier

J