MacGregorSailors.com

I'm installing a new VHF antenna I got from Defender marine.
When I called them I asked for the technocal department and asked about evrything I will need to do this installation.
They sent me 3 male connectors 1 female-female connector and cable and the antenna (Shakespeare)
I'm trying to figure out where to make the hole next to the mast, but for me, the female-female connector will be loose because there is no support for it. So I called defender and ten Shakespare technical department, and the say this is the connector I need. The one alreeady have.
So the only way to install it is with silicon or 3M marine white glue ?
Under is Shakeaspeare answer...

......
We do make a feed-through connector that would be used in the way you have said, but it would be longer than the one you currently have (unless you already have this connector model PL-258-L-G). Below is a picture of the connector I am talking about.
As for the 90 degree angle adaptor, this would work, but would make the feed through connector even longer. The 90 degree adaptor is not capable of being a feed through.

Regards,
Shakespeare Technical Support
....
Thank you
Hector
PI, TX

I am not sure you really need it mounted at the top of the mast.. I have mine mounted on the rear mast support and receive....close to optimum coverage.
There are Limits to these VHFs no matter where you mount it.. Some may argue you need it at the Mast Head..You will gain a little extra range no doubt about it. You need to keep an eye on it as well.
They do make as your well aware of , straight line "couplers" you'll need a cap of some sort to protect from weather ? When Not in use? A means separate the junction / connection and to allow the mast to come down. Its simple, at that point.
Just Drill a hole IMHO use larger SS washers above and below and 3 M 4200 above and below to seal.. Then its "ONLY" a matter of running the coaxial cable to your unit .. OK maybe not so simple
Maybe you'd like to use a Cord grip on the deck and run your cable thru it and again seal it with 4200 or the likes.. That would eliminate the need for an additional coupler.. Possibilities are endless depending on your experience and knowledge of whats available to work with..
Search:
HUBBELL WIRING DEVICES - SEC50GA - Conduit Cord Grip Connector
or :http://www.remke.com/products/custom-products.php
search remke for cord grips ..
I have in the garage both Plastic and Aluminum types..
But I have a lot of stuff in my garage no one else here has hahahaha
I will PM YOU........

I will use your idea of the washers and 4200
Where it will be better to do the hole ? Next to the actual masthead connector or on the other side of the mast rised fiberglass plate.

Thank you
Hector
PI, TX

I drilled a hole next the connector for the light on the deck. Same on the mast.

I disagree with Divecoz on the value of mast top mounting. Ask any powerboater and they'll tell you they are envious of our tall antennas. VHF is line of sight and altitude will give you more distance. Of course you need the right kind of antenna.

Pull the coax up through the deck and attach the male connector. Do the same on the mast. Then when you step your mast, use the double female to connect the two. Simple. Yes the connector will just hang there but I've never had a problem.


--Russ

I do agree with you Russ.The higher the better.
That said, depending on what you really need to accomplish. Don't forget.... the higher the "other" antenna is , the better as well..
Most lakes? How big are they? Leaving land behind? How far will you go? Somewhere here.... back a few years ago, it was posted how far you could go by mounting at the mast head versus the crutch. Simplified its the Horizon for me lets say 15 to 20 miles.. Not near as far as most cell phones reach in 99% of our situations.
Really a SSB Radio reaches a lot farther..if thats your need. BUT you might reach with a VHF Radio 100 miles too.... depending on a lot of variables....
What have I used my radio for? Weather forecast... 1 call to Sea Tow and chatter with boats in the distance but most often in sight.
Here's a site for this topic or Buy a Cell or a Sat phone...http://frugal-mariner.com/Ranges.html
read it slowly and dont skip anything..
Cable length is crucial... Perfectly made connections and high quality connectors. Here is an example I have used when explaining to student's.
Yell as loud as you can .. That will represent a Perfect situation now add a marble or 2 to your mouth representing Cheap Quality Cable and another One or two for undersized cable for the run length and a couple more for something less than perfect , connections and 1 or 2 more for poor quality fittings and a another for corrosion and lack of maintenance.. We could talk about the effect of DC current on that cable and last but not least the potential for clanging inside that mast.. All That said ... I'm the guy with 3 bilge pumps hahahahahaha....

Rich, you are correct. Antenna location and type is not a simple choice.
A higher dB antenna is not always a good idea on a sailboat as we tend to heal thereby sending a powerful signal towards the sky and sea. A wider beam, lower gain might be better in a rocking sea as well. If your boat is in the bottom of a deep swell, getting the antenna above helps. But as you mentioned, connectors and cabling can reduce power as well. A sharp bend, poor cable and every connector will reduce power. In order to remove our mast, we need a connector which will reduce effective power.

So for some people, a short, direct run with few connectors and high dB might be the ticket. If you aren't on rough seas this might work better. On my lake we have a lot of coves and getting up over the land masses is important to me. I've kept connectors to a minimum and used quality cabling.

My limited experience has been 25watts sailboat to sailboat has given me great range vs. trying to talk to a lower mounted antenna powerboat at the same distance. And of course the Coast Guard mounts their antennas on high towers (with good quality cables and connectors).

Choosing an antenna location should be based on how you use your boat, not convenience in mounting options.


--Russ

Possible solution... Solid state Skywalker 500 linear amp...!!! Do I Dare?? Its sitting in a buddies garage not being used and hes offered it to me

As always a lot of good ideas. Thank you all. I like the idea to cut just the cable hole at the cabin top, less leaking problems, less inside liner room required.
I also bought the FM antenna spliter and it have to be connected inside the boat, so I'm planning to connect this spliter at the end of the coax vhf cable next to the battery compartement (Because I have my FM stereo up next to the battery compartement) and from there, run the cable up to the VHF radio location wich is at the top bulkhead port side entrance to the underside bed, under next to the switch panel.
Is it a good idea ?. Hopefully I will be getting enough FM signal too, to reach far stations.
I'm going to provisionally put the antenna at one of the lateral stays, just to try it meanwhile next weekend can go to take the boat out of the water on the trailer.
Thank you
Hector
PI,TX

elvatoli wrote:I also bought the FM antenna spliter and it have to be connected inside the boat, so I'm planning to connect this spliter at the end of the coax vhf cable next to the battery compartement (Because I have my FM stereo up next to the battery compartement) and from there, run the cable up to the VHF radio location wich is at the top bulkhead port side entrance to the underside bed, under next to the switch panel.

Ooo, you have one of those too. I have to admit, going against the "too many connectors" rule I just mentioned I too also have a FM splitter. It works very well. Getting FM antenna high up really helps far away signals.

I have the barrel double female connector that connects the male cable coming up out of the deck to the mast male connector. I used some sealer around the hole and it's been fine. If I were around salty spray, I'd probably also wrap it with some good quality 3M-33 tape. I have an M so it's easy to access the deck plates from below.


--Russ

I have the FM/VHF splitter too, connected right at the VHF radio inside. Too get around the too many connectors conundrum I ran my antenna cable down the inside of the mast and out a hole I had drilled at the bottom. I then continued running said cable over to the sliding hatch rails, down to the companionway door, and then through the small little space that shows at the top corner of the companionway door, and then onto the splitter. I think total length of cable, mast top to splitter was 40', not bad for signal loss, the most signal loss would be through the splitter. If you are carefull about the routing of the cable you will avoid any sharp bends and when time comes to drop the mast you simply disconnect the cable from the splitter and wrap the extra 10' around the mast or something. I mounted my antenna through a hole in the mast cap with silicone and the cable ran straight down no bends until the exit hole at the bottom. You really don't need a thru deck fitting unless you are anal about tidyness.

Divecoz wrote:Possible solution... Solid state Skywalker 500 linear amp...!!! Do I Dare?? Its sitting in a buddies garage not being used and hes offered it to me

Good luck on the linear, Dive. It akes about 75 amps to run it, is only good on CB (27 MHz) and is highly illegal.

~Rich

Absolutely!! Though I have , seen something similair.......... on a boat out of Holland..MUCH bigger boat ... . I agree , Far to many issues for me to even consider the use of it.. Though Truckers use them Much more Plug and Play for them..I was being ........Facetious

Hamin' X wrote:

Divecoz wrote:Possible solution... Solid state Skywalker 500 linear amp...!!! Do I Dare?? Its sitting in a buddies garage not being used and hes offered it to me

Good luck on the linear, Dive. It takes about 75 amps to run it, is only good on CB (27 MHz) and is highly illegal.

~Rich

Back to the original post. How to mount the VHF coax thru the cabin roof. The method Russ described above is right on. I did the same except I used a water tight conector that is screwded and sealed to the roof. Then I ran the coax thru and added the male connector. The rest is just as Russ describes Amps.SSB,etc. is for another post.
capncarp,

OK
Any Links to "Your Water Tight Connector" ?
How did you address the slap / clang inside the mast?
Do You also? "use the double female to connect the two."
If so why?
I see Russ point of being on a lake in a cove surrounded by higher land masses.

capncarp wrote:Back to the original post. How to mount the VHF coax thru the cabin roof. The method Russ described above is right on. I did the same except I used a water tight conector that is screwded and sealed to the roof. Then I ran the coax thru and added the male connector. The rest is just as Russ describes Amps.SSB,etc. is for another post.
capncarp,

Divecoz wrote:OK
Any Links to "Your Water Tight Connector" ?

Yes, I've never seen a PL-259 water tight connector. However, I have seen many of them used outdoors including the screw on one at the antenna. So, I'm wondering how important it is to be watertight. Certainly to keep corrosion out. I wonder if spraying some silicone would help.

How did you address the slap / clang inside the mast?

On my old boat, I slid foam pipe wrap around wires. Then I read on this forum an idea of using wire ties every foot or so to hold the wires in place inside the mast. Brilliant idea and so simple to do. Simply tie a wire tie around the wire before pulling it through the mast. It will push the wire against the inside wall and keep it from clanking.




--Russ