MacGregorSailors.com

pulled up to the ramp and did our normal routine which includes power tilt up, release manual tilt rest, tilt down.
Last thing I always do prior to launch is start the motor.
Dead, nothing, no crank.
removed and reset the start switch safety.
Dead, no crank.
Pulled out the multimeter and tore into the helm and started tracing out power wires.
Power to motor start solenoid
no power to start switch at control panel
tilt is dead also.
Remainder boat has power.

Is there a main fuse or contactor on the motor i couldn't find one. But then again I was sitting in the hot sun at the ramp no lap top or google.

Did you try to check the neutral start circuit/switch?

I had the exact same problem on my Honda except I was out on the water. Had the d**n thing in gear, took me several minutes to figure it out (I suppose because up until then I had the habit of having it in nuetral before turning the engine off). I guess I should be glad I wasn't at a ramp. The next time it happened it was the first thing I checked, so I guess I do learn occasionally.

The tilt should still work even if the motor is in full gear. Man says it don't.

I had a fuse pop on my Etec 50 while out on the water. Same symptoms exactly. The automotive spade type fuse is under the engine cover and kind of hard to spot. I didn't have a spare so I wrapped tin foil around the old fuze and replaced it to get home.

After replacing the fuse I never had another incident and I can't remember what caused the fuse to pop.

Kevin

Kevin wrote:I had a fuse pop on my Etec 50 while out on the water. Same symptoms exactly. The automotive spade type fuse is under the engine cover and kind of hard to spot. I didn't have a spare so I wrapped tin foil around the old fuze and replaced it to get home.

After replacing the fuse I never had another incident and I can't remember what caused the fuse to pop.

Kevin

I have had the same problem, blown 10Amp blade fuse on the ETec 60.
Symptoms are: no tilt, no tachometer and no restart.

The 1st time a wire for tach back lighting broke loose shorting inside the pedestal and blowing the 10 Amp fuse on the engine.
The second time was caused by cheep fuses from "Harbor Freight Tool" and the fuse was fracturing along the side due to vibrations associated with engine use.

Use good automotive 10 Amp blade fuses and carry spares, problem solved.

Tony

There is a 20amp fuse in a odd looking water proof holder sort if looks like a plastic Matchbox I believe on the port side of the engine the top slides off to reveal the fuse assembly