Is Your Mac - Wet or Dry?

[argonaut]

I have 2 questions.
Are there any leak-free Macgregors, and for those that weren't but are now, what did you have to do to plug everything?

My journeys into the boat's interior to search and destroy ick to make her smell better continue.

I've discovered a fine light grey residue in the forwardmost (foam) compartment. Then I used a hose to figure out that the forestay leaks, so I'm thinking that salt water & rain made it's way in via the forestay then helped the boat get a nice "boaty" smell since the bilge area doesn't vent much.


I'm thinking about drilling out the chainplates, filling the cracks with caulk, then riveting them back with a pop-rivet.

OK, make that 3 questions.

This also makes me think twice about using that nice grey bilgekote paint I was about to get in the bilge areas... I'm thinking a flat dark paint color would be better for finding leaks since salt water dries a pale grey. Think so?

[Greg]

Mine leaked around all 3 chainplates. I forced as much 4200 as I could around all the edges (between chain plates and trim plates, trim plates and gelcoat, all around and in the rivets) then wiped off most of the excess... 5 min fix - no more leaks.

Greg

[ALX357]

i am still working on the leaks.... but i think its all boats... not just Mac's
My old Hunter 22 did the same thing, worse.
The chainplates are actually the vertical metal plates that are attached to the hull, and carry the mast loads from the stays, so i don't think you meant those... but the cover plates on the deck ....
As for the slots the chainplates pass thru, they can be caulked but the movement of the rigging pulling them back and forth eventually loosens the caulk and caused leaks to reappear, requiring another round of caulking.... and so forth....

as for the bilge paint... i recommend staying with a lighter color and flat finish - visibility to make finding stuff in the storage areas easier, while the wetness shows as shiny against the usually flat (dull ) surfaces.

[argonaut]

Sorry, yes, the covers, not the plates. Several threads dealt with these leaks, a silicone bead on top seemed the most frequent recommendation. I have to see if the pulpit hardware leaks too...

I'm going to decontaminate the foam chunks with bleach before putting it back in, or maybe just use fill with foam peanuts instead!

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

Mine has always been very dry. I store a lot of stuff down below and it never gets wet.

I do keep the boat covered with a tarp, mainly to keep it clean, but I'm sure this also helps with any water issues when stored. I also have a full enclosure which is up over the cockpit whenever there is any threat of rain when out on the water. I'm sure this helps protect from the possible leak area's in the cockpit like the pedestal and the fuel lockers.

5200 and even 4200 is the wrong stuff to use to seal things that move like the chainplate caps. It dries too hard so as the rig moves it quickly opens up gaps. You want a very soft and flexible sealer, silicon is the best. It gives the best seal but will degrade from the suns UV rays. Plan on removing and applying new each year.

You can use the harder stuff on fixed things like pulpits, cleats, etc, but I've become very anti-5200 for anything above the water line. It's just to much trouble when the time comes to remove and re-bed the equipment. 4200 is a good alternate choice.

Our boat has also been very smell free. We run a de-humidifier heater fan inside during the winter and this keeps things dry and fresh.

[Tahoe Jack]

I have found that Marine Goop, a tube product...often available at your friendly Walmart, is similar but better than the various silicone cartridge caulk material...I also use it, along with screws etc, to mount various goodies in the cabin. Some folks even patch rubber boots with it!

[Frank C]

argo,
As Duane finds, my 2000 X-boat has no leaks and I've never had to caulk anything. For 4 years I thought it was the tarps, but this past year it has sat untarped with same results, only very minor leaks.

No smells either ... however, you also need to consider regional differences. California gets our share of rain, this year even more than most. But relative humidity is moderate and winds - airflow - is pretty consistent. In FL, you might start with a humidity disadvantage. FWIW.

[craiglaforce]

It's been a battle, but I think I fixed all of my leaks.
1) Inner liner edge of fuel tank compartments ,
2) Galley sink through-hullto hose connection,
3) Hole through deck for steering cable tube,
4) cheeck block bolt through deck,
5) windshield screw
6) both shroud chainplates.

[argonaut]

Thanks Craig!
Your list is exactly was hoping for, a list of "Well Known Leak Sources".
I already plugged the binnacle's steering hole and a thru-deck hole the PO had drilled for an autopilot... It leaked like a sieve. I checked last night and looks like my pulpit fittings don't leak on mine yet. I already tested the window so I think all I have left is the aft compartments to check. I think the large drain hole is a great idea even if it doesn't leak.

I'll try some charcoal too... can't hurt & might be a good excuse to add a barbie!

[Moe]

Our '02 X stayed dry while in the driveway before we put the tarp on it for winter.

--
Moe

[Randy Smith]

My 96 X is bone dry....I have never had any water in it...I do live in the desert...14 inches of rain a year.....and I do run a heater constantly at 65 degrees in the winter.......when I lived on it, I must admit, my hanging clothes had a little mildew at times......but, I was running propane heat, not electric......electric is so much better, no moisture.......

[Idle Time]

The first couple of years we had Idle Time it was in a slip in the water. No water in the bilge at all.

Then we get it to Florida and it sits on the trailer and one day I found about 3 cups of water below and the underside of the boards are mildewed. I tightend all the screws holding the stantions etc and no more water. I didnt use any caulk. If they loosen up again I'll seal and tighten. I also found one of the bolts anchoring the steering console had been leaking. Caulked and tightened all of them also. Now I leave a couple of the lids open and a dehumidifier going. That will have to do until I can get Jim to add a solar vent.

[mgg4]

I'm going to decontaminate the foam chunks with bleach before putting it back in, or maybe just use fill with foam peanuts instead!

Be careful about foam and chemicals. Sometimes you can use a chemical (such as any petrochemical) on your foam, and come back to find you have no more foam. If I were you I'd test it on a small piece first.

--Mark

[Casey]

I had mine for 3 yrs in a marina before it started leaking around the chain plates. I have caulked twice and no more problems. Probably due to happen again this year. I also painted my bilge areas white. It is easier to see things. I can also see where the water come in because it makes a yellow discoloration.