Fuel quick connects

[Lvoight]

I was curious as to what everyone one was doing about having the fuel lines connecting to the tanks. Clearly the fitting to the outboard is dependent of the brand of motor we each have. But what about to the tanks? I opted for 4 6 gallons and thus need to furnish some sort of connectors to attach the fuel line. I was thinking of something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Fuel-Line-Qu ... d_add_1_dp

I have a 99 Merc 40 hp. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Lee

[Seapup]

I went with stainless chrysler/force fittings. Small, quick and easy to use with one hand. Check on ebay.

[Lvoight]

I went with stainless chrysler/force fittings. Small, quick and easy to use with one hand. Check on ebay.

I see them on iboats. do they go by any other names?

thanks,

Lee

[yukonbob]

I have similar. Or the same. U can switch with 70hp running and not stall. Very handy. Am planning on a water separator / tank combiner this year to avoid balance issues with twin 12 gal tanks and having to switch tanks.

[Russ]

I went with stainless chrysler/force fittings. Small, quick and easy to use with one hand. Check on ebay.

That looks like what I have on my 12gal tanks. As mentioned, can switch tanks on the fly without shutting motor down. They work great.
I like being able to keep separate tanks and switching between them.

[Lvoight]

I went with stainless chrysler/force fittings. Small, quick and easy to use with one hand. Check on ebay.

That looks like what I have on my 12gal tanks. As mentioned, can switch tanks on the fly without shutting motor down. They work great.
I like being able to keep separate tanks and switching between them.

I also like this idea. I just found:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... TkPyRx-qIw

which seems a bit cheaper. I am wondering if the stainless are worth the extra money. If everyone here uses them Ill prob just go with the proven product. I guess we will see if anyone else has any experience.

Thanks,

Lee

[Russ]

I went with stainless chrysler/force fittings. Small, quick and easy to use with one hand. Check on ebay.

That looks like what I have on my 12gal tanks. As mentioned, can switch tanks on the fly without shutting motor down. They work great.
I like being able to keep separate tanks and switching between them.

I also like this idea. I just found:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... TkPyRx-qIw

which seems a bit cheaper. I am wondering if the stainless are worth the extra money. If everyone here uses them Ill prob just go with the proven product. I guess we will see if anyone else has any experience.

Thanks,

Lee

I don't know about the plastic. I have the metal connector and it just feels solid. I will say though that there have been MANY times I've caught the connector on something and it popped off without knowing it. Engine would suddenly die and I would reconnect, pump primer and be on my way. So if those have something to secure it better, it may be superior.

--Russ

[Lvoight]

I also like this idea. I just found:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... TkPyRx-qIw

which seems a bit cheaper. I am wondering if the stainless are worth the extra money. If everyone here uses them Ill prob just go with the proven product. I guess we will see if anyone else has any experience.

Thanks,

Lee

I don't know about the plastic. I have the metal connector and it just feels solid. I will say though that there have been MANY times I've caught the connector on something and it popped off without knowing it. Engine would suddenly die and I would reconnect, pump primer and be on my way. So if those have something to secure it better, it may be superior.

--Russ

Thanks for the advice. I guess this is the direction I will go.

Lee

[Boblee]

Bit puzzled by this thread, why put a connector in the line?
Why not just use the original connector or even another brand and hook the hose from the motor direct to the fuel tank with that rather than having an extra one in between?
We left the original brp one on the motor line and fitted a compatible outlet on the two 20gal tanks.

[Catigale]

For cruising, I got rid of the quick release connectors and have gone to standard NPT fitting with barbed connectors and SS hose clamps

I put a three way fuel select switch from WM on my boat so I never have to swap lines again. You will get problems with the bayonet fittings when the o-rings go, or when high vapour pressure blows the springs.

I like the simplicity and repair ability of the barbed fittings and spare hose, also, it makes it easy for me to draw fuel for the kicker outboard if needed

[Lvoight]

Bit puzzled by this thread, why put a connector in the line?
Why not just use the original connector or even another brand and hook the hose from the motor direct to the fuel tank with that rather than having an extra one in between?
We left the original brp one on the motor line and fitted a compatible outlet on the two 20gal tanks.

Since I am planning on installing a kicker, I was hping to make the takes universal. I also take the 6 gallon tanks out to my fishing boat at times. Plus I have had terrible experiences with these types



bending in the past. I like the ones pictured above and picked some up from iboats. Also with this i can change out the engine end faster and simpler.

thanks,

lee

[Russ]

You will get problems with the bayonet fittings when the o-rings go, or when high vapour pressure blows the springs.

Interesting. Never thought of this. Certainly makes a case for not using them.
I still like the simplicity of a single fuel line. I'm going to buy a spare.

--Russ

[seahouse]

Catigale wrote:
You will get problems with the bayonet fittings when the o-rings go, or when high vapour pressure blows the springs.

This connection was one (there were 2 others) leak point for fuel on my brand new Mac! I bought a new one, switched it, and that solved it. The old one, Chinese, could not be disassembled and repaired or cleaned. Junk. This type of gas tank fitting has been around since at least the 60's.

Cat - The O-rings are easy to obtain (hardware store) and replace, part of regular maintenance, and they perform like new again after that. But I'm more accustomed to some older boats I've had in the past, and it was something to keep an eye on if you didn't want any trouble.

Maybe we're talking about different construction, but as I recall the spring works in concert with an upstream type valve. So the higher vapour pressure in the tank will actually press the valve tighter against the seat, making a tighter, better seal, the higher the pressure builds. The spring is there to maintain a small amount of tension to keep the valve closed when no vapour pressure is present.(?)

Or are you talking about a pressure-relief valve? Gas tanks are made to withstand the vapour pressure of fuel at any temperature it's likely to encounter, so relief valves aren't used AFAIK.

I know of no consumer quick-release pressure coupling that does not result in some loss of medium (fuel) when decoupled. Since the line is pressurized there will always be a drop or two of gasoline that is lost from the space between the valves of the two parts. And smaller diameter tubing means a smaller fuel drip on release. There needs to be a check valve on both ends because both ends are pressurized, and would otherwise leak. Or has anyone seen one that I haven't?

-Brian.

[Catigale]

Two summers ago on a hot day both my tanks had the spring type bayonet fitting ps fail..leaving parts all over the cockpit( plus a stink of gas!)

I switched to simple barb and hose when I reworked the tank setup with the three way valve. This also lets me draw from either tank to keep the boat balanced which lets me point at 1/2 the magic angle to the apparent wind..

[RandyMoon]

Stephen, the three way valve is a great idea. Did you mount the valve back by the motor?