MacGregorSailors.com

Time to add a second axle.
Does anyone know the axle specs?
Is this doable yourself or a shop job? Local trailer shops are rare around here.

--Russ

Just ordered mine axle from Standens in Calgary. http://www.standens.com/home.html

Just gave my serial number off the existing axle and UFP is making to the same specs. 5 week delivery time frame due to manufacturing etc. I plan on installing it myself. Doesnt look to complex

PM me if you want the contact at Standens. You likely have a dealer closer

Two questions…was that for a factory trailer?…and about how much for them to make one for you?

RussMT wrote:Is this doable yourself or a shop job? Local trailer shops are rare around here.

Probably, but I couldn't be specific without seeing how the original is attached.

Is it torsion bar type?

Does the existing axle also support the boat via a bunk?

Do you want to keep the same tongue load?

Are you putting brakes on the second axle?

That is for a factory aluminum trailer. I am adding another braking axle as BC requires brakes on all axles and we tow to the Shuswap area and the coast.

Cost quoted for the braking axle is $941 + 200 shipping to Calgary. (775 if you want to go no brakes)

These trailer pics are on Mac's web site. I don't know if yours looks like this, but it's what they show.

The axle bolts on, as you would expect with torsion on aluminium. No through-bolts visible in their pics, so I assume they're on the outside. But the bunks do sit on that axle, so I would think you'd want to add a galvanized cross tube in place of the axle and simply bolt it on (new holes required on the frame rails, though). Baloney slice the ends of the new cross tube so you can get the hardware in there easier. Being that the trailer weight will be transferred to the trailer frame instead of directly to the axle (and down to the ground from there), the connection will have to be somewhat robust.

Or maybe it's ok to just move the axle and the bunks a couple of feet, but someone who's done it would have to comment on that. Hopefully, the outboard bunk support is also just bolted on. If moving the bunks instead of adding a new cross bar, then I'd probably elect to add a bottom-middle bunk (at the very least) to the new axle to spread the load on the hull, if that fits with whatever is going on with the bottom of the hull.





The lighting on the trailer in this pic is pretty skimpy, that's for sure, and not legal, but marginally better than the OEM lighting on my trailer.



I would also buy an axle with the same disk brakes, both for safety (unless towing with a dually PU or first-generation Hum-Vee), and for legality in all states. Many states in the north-east and mid-atlantic USA require brakes on all axles, and for the few extra bucks, I think it's worth it.

tkanzler wrote: Is it torsion bar type?

Yes

Does the existing axle also support the boat via a bunk?

I believe it does to some extent. Doesn't look like it really carries much weight.

Do you want to keep the same tongue load?

Yes

Are you putting brakes on the second axle?

No. Just want to distribute weight on more rubber.

RussMT wrote:

tkanzler wrote:

Do you want to keep the same tongue load?

Yes

Then you have to move the exising axle forward or back and mount the new axle so the midpoint between the two of them is where the spindle centers are now. And be very careful to align the axles to each other (center to center on the spindles on each side, plus/minus some small amount the axle manufacturer will give you, but it's small) so the two axles aren't fighting each other, and to align the two sides to the same longitudinal distance from a reference line, which I would probably just transfer to the trailer frame from the existing axle, assuming it tracks straight now, which I'm sure it does.

Nothing like a trailer dog-tracking down the road (hanging out to one side, like dogs sometimes do with their derrieres - from my trucker days).

Let me just add that the PO's of my boat did this with my OEM steel trailer, but with equalized leaf springs, and it tracks so nice and stable with light tongue load I can't believe it. I only have about 150 lb or so, but it tracks cleanly without sway. I recently softened up the suspension, as it had a total of about 8000 lb worth (3500 + 4500+ lb with mismatched axles and springs), and now no jarring and clattering back there with routine bumps. The general feedback in the tow beast is that of a softer ride.

I believe those torsion axles have highly progressive suspensions, so the spring rate is low with low loading, and increases the further you deflect them, unlike leaf springs which essentially have the same rate regardless of load. That would explain why folks report a soft ride after adding a second torsion spring axle, even when the suspension is essentially suitable for 7000 lb (2 x 3500 lb).

Axle ser# A427504

braking axle
hub face to hub face 87"

frame brkt width 70"

brkt height "flush"

axle capacity 4200#

V-Bend Beam Galvanized

hub bolt pattern 5x 4.1/2

Disc brakes

fill out these specs on the torsion axle order form @ waymeyers IN.

I was quoted approx 640$ us for a complete braking axle, a dual braking axle trl is good for a 6200# load as per the trl buddy manufacturer , it does not double to 8400# as the mac factory tells U , a tandem axle trl with one axle brk's is still only legal for a 4200# load so keep that in mind if travelling in different regions

J

Thanks for finding this photo. Now I remember how that axle sits. Looks like the bunks rests on the axle and would need to be moved, and another bunk built for the new axle. I just put new carpet on that bunk last year and it's just a piece of wood.

I added the second axle a few years ago... Not sure why the price has jumped that much - but I am pretty sure it was just under $300.00 delivered to my local trailer shop. The axel manufacture does not sell direct so you need to order via a distributer. I used Six Robblees’ Inc, they have about 20 dealerships in the North West: OR, WA, ID, MT, WY, and CA http://sixrobblees.com/locations/

When I ordered mine, they did not care about the measurements or specs or what trailer it was built for, all they needed was the P/N S/N off the original axel (it is on a tag in the middle of the axle). They built an exact duplicate of the axle I had, and it only took about 4 weeks. They can add or subtract the brake parts and you can always put them on later if you want to. (I had them delete the calipers and brakes)

If you do put dual brakes on the trailer you need to change the master rod at the trailer hitch. I think they make two different part numbers, the alternate one produces more fluid which is needed to properly actuate all four brake discs.

Chris.

tkanzler wrote:The lighting on the trailer in this pic is pretty skimpy, that's for sure, and not legal, but marginally better than the OEM lighting on my trailer.

My boat came with a light bar on a wire that attaches to the end of the mast and connects to the trailer. There is a bolt to attach it to the mast.

I've never used it because I've never trailered at night, but it's a good idea as lighting is pretty weak on these things. I am a big fan of lighting up the back of my rig.

Highlander wrote:Axle ser# A427504

braking axle
hub face to hub face 87"

frame brkt width 70"

brkt height "flush"

axle capacity 4200#

V-Bend Beam Galvanized

hub bolt pattern 5x 4.1/2

Disc brakes

fill out these specs on the torsion axle order form @ waymeyers IN.

I was quoted approx 640$ us for a complete braking axle, a dual braking axle trl is good for a 6200# load as per the trl buddy manufacturer , it does not double to 8400# as the mac factory tells U , a tandem axle trl with one axle brk's is still only legal for a 4200# load so keep that in mind if travelling in different regions

J

Did you have to move the trailer bunks and/or add a new one to the new axle?
What did you do for the fender?

RussMT wrote:

tkanzler wrote:The lighting on the trailer in this pic is pretty skimpy, that's for sure, and not legal, but marginally better than the OEM lighting on my trailer.

I am a big fan of lighting up the back of my rig.

You mean, like this?



The white light in the middle is a street lamp, and the one to the right is the dome light in the admiral's car. The two read side markers are from the one on the trailer, and a light bar mounted to the lower unit of the O/B. No unlit overhang problems with the mast ending where the O/B ends, and lighting meets (exceeds) DOT requirements.

RussMT wrote:
Did you have to move the trailer bunks and/or add a new one to the new axle?
What did you do for the fender?

What I did on mine was to add a bunk at the new axle, so essetially I have three aft bunks that the boat sits on and of course the V bunk at the front. I did this because I have slowly been increasing the overall weight of my boat as I add more mods to it. I wanted to have more support under the boat, however with the three bunks in relatively close proximity you need to be sure that they are all properly built such that one is not higher or lower otherwise you will not be distributing the load.

As far as the fenders goes, I built new metal fenders - There are a few companies out there where you can buy pre-formed diamond plate aluminum. I built the inner fender wells from plywood, and covered them with bunk carpet for a very professional look then made alluminum brackets to mount them securly in the correct loction.





There is VERY LITTLE extra room between the tires, fenders, and the boat with this design. So I would recomend you have all the parts in hand and you have a good plan of atack before you start this trailer mod. I've been trailering this mod for a few seasons now with no issues at all. My tires don't rub, and the boat has never bumped the fenders.

Chris.