MacGregorSailors.com

We just spent a great weekend on the water... Sailing around the Apostle Islands off the northern tip of Wisconsin... a bit cool, 40's and foggy, but no rain. Made for some amazing pictures.
Ran into a bit of a problem, we woke up Sunday morning after a near perfect night at anchor (glassy water and no wind) with a few inches of water in the bilge. It would seem that the water ballast valve is no longer sealing and needs to be replaced. I pumped out the water and screwed that ballast valve shut as tight as I could possibly make it and it made it home... but it is hot on the "to-do" list.
I looked at the replacement parts offered by BWYACHTS and the new valve has a secondary bolt on it to keep it from falling onto the water and to keep the stem from spinning as the valve is tightened. I have not taken apart my current valve on my 26S, but I am anticipating some issues with removing, and thus re-installing this nut. I have done a little searching, and have not found anything...but has anyone replaced this valve in the past and how do you reach that nut as it looks like it is in the middle of the ballast tank and my fat hands will not be able to reach into the tank from the top.

Thanks for any/all advice

-Abe

Hi Abe,
I Have removed the valve on both the old style X and on my D boat.
These may not be exactly like yours, but close.
On both boats there was a large ringding at the top of the valve stem, to prevent the wing nut from coming off all the way. This is what keeps the valve from falling out of the boat. The secondary bolt is bolted or welded to the bottom flange and is only a stop guide to prevent the valve from turning, when you tighten the wing nut. (as I remember)
This is how I removed/replaced the valve.
1.To remove the valve from the boat, first remove this large ring ding and unscrew the wing nut almost all the way. Pull up on the shaft and tape something to it, to prevent it from falling out, temporarily. Then remove the wing nut altogether.
2. Now take a long piece of small wire, string, fishing line, etc. and securely tie it through the hole in the end of the valve shaft, that the ring ding was in. Un-tape the the tape and drop the valve out through the boat. The string/wire will now go all the way though with the valve.
I would tied the end of the wire inside the boat on one of the ladder rails.
3. Under the boat, untie the wire from the valve and tie a bolt or piece of wood or something to the other end of the wire.

Now you can replace the seal on the valve or get a new one. Once the valve seal is repaired, you can tie it to the wire and fish it back up through the boat. This will take a little finessing, but will work well. Once it is through, you can temporarily tape it, long enough to untie the wire and put the wing nut back on.

Another thought.........
This valve leaking would not directly cause water to get in the bilge. Check your air valve, that is right next to it. (the rubber cork with the little lever on it). These get hard and cracked over the years and have to be replaced, or will leak.
On still water and not moving, the water will generally rise up to this opening, but not enter the boat. However, when underway this valve can leak a good amount of water, if it is not sealing well or is loose. If it is working properly (and if it is old, it likely doesn't) you can hold the rubber part and turn the lever to make it seal better (like an old thermos bottle cork). These plugs are very standard and can be had at any place that sell boat stuff. I've even seen them in the little boating section at Walmart. If you haven't replaced it you should.

hope this is helpful

Best Breezes,
Steve K.