MacGregorSailors.com

http://a65.tinypic.com/9s84k4.jpg[img]h ... 9s84k4.jpg[/img]

This is a 13 year old hull.,the black stripes will be done when it stops raining

Now, that's one shiny hull! Mine looks pretty good using Colonite Fleetwax, but not that good.

My decks are chalky, though. Milky water running down the driveway as I was powerwashing it. I may have to give that stuff a try on the decks. It pains me to see gelcoat get like that.

I'm doing the decks and antiskid surfaces this weekend. NG2 does not make it slippery like wax. I haven't touched the stripes since I applied NG2 last July (previous detailed post).

Great effort or should I say little effort compared to repeated buffing and waxing!

Product or elbow grease?

Ed

I am firmly convinced those who have not used NG2 don't believe it can be that easy. As a former 'Waxer' I didn't give it a second look either nor did I believe it would yield any tangible net benefit. Finally I was totally fed up with the repeated oxidation of the stripes. I googled the product, read the review, watched the videos, then called the factory directly in an attempt to understand the chemistry. and application process.

I think there is a certain 'Love Ritual' with waxing and polishing boats and cars much like tending to a meticulously manicured lawn. For some it is a fulfilling experience. For my 60-80 hr work week if I'm waxing & polishing I'm not sailing. Now I power wash, light buff with soft scrub to remove stains and minor scratches, rinse, dry, NG2. I'm done, I'm out of here, I'm going sailing. No more oxidized stripes and nice shine to boot! So now you can cut grass or sail which ever provides the most enjoyment.

I just got some NG2 and looking to deal with very chalky strips on an M - what's the best pre-treatment for them?

Without knowing the overall oxidized condition of the stripes below is my procedure steps that works well for me.

1. wash with soap & water to clean surface of current dirt and dust.
2. scrub/polish with soft scrub to remove stains/oxidation. Use ample water (spray bottle) to create slurry.
a. I use a Portable Cable random orbital polisher with Lake Country buffing pads
3. polish/clean until oxidation is removed. You do not have to attain a high polish doing so is a waste of time.
a. wash and dry surface. Inspect dry surface making sure oxidation is removed. With oxidation removed
the surface will appear black with a dull sheen. Unlike polishing compounds Soft Scrub will not attain a
shinny surface so do not expect a high state of shine. Don't get anal about the shine! It is totally
1. wash with soap & water to clean surface of current dirt and dust.
2. scrub/polish with soft scrub to remove stains/oxidation. Use ample water (spray bottle) to create slurry.
a. I use a Portable Cable random orbital polisher with Lake Country buffing pads
3. polish/clean until oxidation is removed. You do not have to attain a high polish doing so is a waste of time.
a. wash and dry surface and inspect dry surface making sure oxidation is removed. With oxidation removed
the surface will appear black with a dull sheen. Unlike polishing compounds Soft Scrub will not attain a
shinny surface so do not expect a high state of shine. It is totally unnecessary (NG2's job).
4. apply the NG2 cleaner and scrub surface to remove any wax residue (if any).
5. rinse thoroughly again and squeegee dry or towel dry surface.
6. apply NG2 using applicator. I applied 4-6 coats. Keep the applicator wet with NG2 but not over saturated.
The key is to simply wipe on / wet the surface. This is a very low viscosity liquid there for effective build up
comes from repeated applications not attempting to flow it on. If you do it will run and or leave overlap
streaks.
7. I use a wiping pattern of horizontal, then an x pattern 45' upper left to lower right, then 45' upper right to
lower left, then vertical. I overlap each wipe slightly. Let the surface dry between applications. If the
humidity is low and you are doing all the stripes the previous application will be dry by the adequately dry
by the time you are back to your starting point.
8. gloss will appear on the 4th layer and high gloss by the 6th.
9. If you accidentally trap in dirt (or soft scrub compound like I did due to lack of rinsing) let the surface dry a
few hours then lightly polish with a fine grade buffing compound. It leave most of the NG2 and strip off the
residue so you can apply 1-2 additional coats.
10. pay attention to the weather NG2 needs 24hrs of dry weather to crosslink/cure. I did part of my stripes in
late afternoon and had condensation dew drop steaks on the stripes. Lightly buffed and applied 1-2 coats
eliminated the streaks.
11. I'm applying NG2 to the topsides including the antiskid. For anti skid use a foam roller or short knap 4 in
roller.

Never Ever Wax Your Glass Off Again. now go sailing!

previous posts:
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... =8&t=24615

A great description, and a great help - Thanks!

I'm not sure I understand - could you come over and demo the process for me?

secret is in the sauce. One of these weekends I hope to get to Lake MI.

dlandersson wrote:I'm not sure I understand - could you come over and demo the process for me?

1. Wash hull
2. Apply 3 M marine compound for heavily oxidized hulls according to instructions
3. Wash hull
4. Apply newglass 2 to hull according to instructions
5. Initiate a conversation with Captain Morgan

Looks like I need to work on mine a little bit more

How many coats of ng2 for this result?

Be glad to have you as my guest

1st Sail wrote:secret is in the slauce. One of these weekends I hope to get to Lake MI.

Just jumping in on the new glass posts here, as I really want to do this to my mac --

My question is that my hull is very chalky .. I wipe my hand across it and I get this white residue. Is that something I can wipe/scrubb off before I put new glass on.. or does that white stuff just keep coming off forever?

Kevin.