MacGregorSailors.com

I am looking at buying a 1996 26x located near me. I would like all the advice I can get on what to look for in the boat. Also, if there is anyone in the Baltimore, Maryland area that would consider looking at the boat with me I would sure appreciate it .

Thanks

Try the below topic. A lot of this should apply to the X as well. Get a outboard mechanic to look at the outboard if equipped and do a compression test. Look for sings of visible damage or repair and home 'hack' jobs on systems install. Does everything look professional or a bit of a disaster? The rigging is cheap cheap to replace, as are most components (center board, rudders etc) at least as far as boats go. See whats all included and compare to others for sale online. Maybe post the ad here or some pics and list of equipment and go from there.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... =9&t=25952

Hi Ed,
The is a solid boat in and of itself if it has been maintained. I would check the obvious, hull damage, rigging, sails, signs of excessive water in the bilge, etc. When we bought our 97 I spent way more money on getting the trailer up to snuff than I ever will on the boat itself. On the 1500 mile trip home, I replaced all the tires and wheels in the first 500 miles of the trip. 170 miles from home I lost a bearing and ended up replacing both of the Macgregor axles with standard ones that I can actually get parts for. I still need to go through the brake system to find a small leak and re-carpet the bunks. The other great expense you may encounter will be the motor. Make sure it is checked out by a competent mechanic or you may end up spending up to half the cost of the boat to replace it.

Outboard, Sails, and Trailer. The three biggest wear items on the boat.

Sails are blown out if original. You can bet on it. But they're adequate to learn to sail with, assuming they're not ripped up.

Outboard is just an engine and gear train, and easily enough surveyed by a competent mechanic (check for water in the lower unit gear oil). Replace the raw water impeller if you buy it.

OEM trailer is lightly built, but adequate. Many have thousands of miles on them. Check springs for sagging and cracks/breakage. Tires usually die of old age rather than miles. Pole tongue is susceptible to rusting out from the inside, and usually breaks where it meets the two side channels. Brakes, of course, are always suspect, and lights rarely work properly (bring cheap Harbor Freight magnetic lights with long wire for towing home the first time).

Most other things are relatively obvious, like standing rigging condition (all new standing rigging is actually pretty cheap), hull integrity, running rigging, cushions, water leaks (anything mounted to the cabin roof is a potential leak point), and so on.

I have the same make and model.. let me know if you have questions.

Biggest thing for me would be condition of the outboard.. how many ( if any) more years can you get out of it.

Trailer brakes - if original, are likely dead, some times they are even rusted together. some people swap out to disks.

I have some cracks on the place where the seat hinges up.

A trailer boat without a good trailer is just a boat.

The trailer is just about the biggest cost single item.

The boat itself is generally cheap and easy to fix unless there is obvious major damage

I personally would buy a slightly run down boat with a good trailer and motor than a brilliant boat with a questionable trailer and motor its going to be much cheaper in the long term.

If comparing to later models look for ungraded rudders and rudder brackets, this is a highly desirable upgrade in my books

Check that repairs and mods have been done to a good standard, they dont have to be professionally done, just nice and neat with a good standard of workmanship, IMHO slap dash repairs / mods can give a insight into the mind set of the previous owner, ie "Is close enough, good enough" that can give an idea of how the things that you cant obviously see may of been maintained

Check the wiring, does it look like a birds nest, or its it all neat and orderly, rewiring, while not overly expensive to DIY can be a pain in the neck, bad wiring makes it VERY HARD or close to impossible to chase down any issues you may find

Is there some reason you are not hiring an inspector? I'd say it's a prudent investment.

Hi Ed,

I hope the advice already provided have given you some pointers. I agree with all previously said. Also, please keep in mind it is a buyer's market. There will Always be boats available. If you're sold on MacGregors then choose the one [of many] that is in good shape and meets your priorities. I hope you've been lurking here for some time. If not, sit down and read.

While I'm not trying to raise a stink, is this the first Mac you've looked at or considered? What's special about this one? Availability is not good enough. While winter tis the season for a bargain - what kind of bargain are we talking.

My story : I bought a '97 in 2006. It had a list of things I was looking for:

1. Galvanized or Aluminum tandem trailer. As I planned on more road trips than just the local marina.

2. Decent electronics including radar - All of which have long since been upgraded a few times

3. Roller furling foresail. Updated main. I bought new foresails eventually and have still used the main. Which was not oem & has 2 reefing sys.
with all lines led back to cockpit.

4. Updated foam & upholstery. Face it; it's 20 years old

5. No glaring leaks. dings / damage etc.


While you will eventually replace most things. You don't want to get hammered at the starting gate. Look up the improvements made over the years to the MacGregor line. Decide where you're willing to jump in and start swimming . e.g. the '96 has an aluminum rudder system. They were upgraded to stainless sometime after. They may be fine - but they were upgraded. My Previous Owner upgraded to SS on my '97, YMMV.

The 2 most expensive upgrades:
1 - Repower engine upgrade
2 - New trailer

Try and find a boat that's taken on one of these at least or build that into your price or expense. Same with sails - as was mentioned also by Azz, Tom & others. Think about how you want to use your Mac. More power or sailor and make sure that either power will stand while you upgrade the other and learn. What are the electronics included? Will they do or have to be upgraded? are you doing the install or someone else? What will that cost? & don't forget to check the classifieds right here
Remember - It's a buyer's market.

First year I bought a: new outboard, electronics, vhf & tow vehicle - What are you towing her with? & then some...

Good Hunting

Some other items that if included might save you in the long run:
How you plan to use the boat will determine if they add any value for you.

Autopilot
Full Enclosure
Dinghy and Dinghy motor

Lots of good things here.

Another "tow beast" thread has quite a bit on tow vehicles. Something to think about.

Oh, and new owners have to buy everyone pizza.

EdWeitzel wrote:I am looking at buying a 1996 26x located near me. I would like all the advice I can get on what to look for in the boat. Also, if there is anyone in the Baltimore, Maryland area that would consider looking at the boat with me I would sure appreciate it .

Thanks

dlandersson wrote:Oh, and new owners have to buy everyone pizza.

Well, at least someone is thinking around here.

OP: Pepperoni. Extra-thin crust NY style, if you please.

EdWeitzel wrote:I am looking at buying a 1996 26x located near me. I would like all the advice I can get on what to look for in the boat. Also, if there is anyone in the Baltimore, Maryland area that would consider looking at the boat with me I would sure appreciate it .

Thanks

Pictures would obviously help, if you're looking for general impressions of her from folks who've been where you're headed...as many as you can get online--of both boat AND trailer.

A '96 is as old of a 26X as you can get. Not that there's anything wrong with that if she's been well kept. But If she's got her original, now 20+ year old motor, then abso-friggin'-lutely take that advice already offered here to heart, and give that motor a super-thorough going over. Then have a certified marine mechanic also do their thing before handing over your money. Remember: the least little thing they may find will more than pay for the cost of that inspection in "haggling leverage" guaranteed.

Bilgemaster wrote:

EdWeitzel wrote:I am looking at buying a 1996 26x located near me. I would like all the advice I can get on what to look for in the boat. Also, if there is anyone in the Baltimore, Maryland area that would consider looking at the boat with me I would sure appreciate it .

Thanks

Pictures would obviously help, if you're looking for general impressions of her from folks who've been where you're headed...as many as you can get online--of both boat AND trailer.

A '96 is as old of a 26X as you can get. Not that there's anything wrong with that if she's been well kept. But If she's got her original, now 20+ year old motor, then abso-friggin'-lutely take that advice already offered here to heart, and give that motor a super-thorough going over. Then have a certified marine mechanic also do their thing before handing over your money. Remember: the least little thing they may find will more than pay for the cost of that inspection in "haggling leverage" guaranteed.

My 1995 model X takes exception to a 1996 being as old as you can get, from memory she was built in October 1995

EdWeitzel wrote:
My 1995 model X takes exception to a 1996 being as old as you can get, from memory she was built in October 1995

Which, oddly enough, makes her a "1996 Model Year." So, she's younger than you'd thought, you cad.

The legal definition of model year in the Code Of Federal Regulations is found under 33 CFR 181.3: Model year means the period beginning August 1 of any year and ending on July 31 of the following year. Each Model year is designated by the year in which it ends. This means that if a boat was built between August 1, 1995 and July 31, 1996 then the boat is a 1996 model year.

The model year is built into the HIN, isn't it? Last two digits, with actual month and year of manufacture being the two (letter and number) immediately preceding?