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Dent in hull on trailer

Posted: Tue May 01, 2018 5:55 pm
by hunkydory
So should this be I be worried about this? I jacked the bow up and it seemed to go back to to normal but the boat has been sitting on the trailer for at least a decade
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I would like to get some feedback before taking on the keel repair. The crank is frozen and the keel itself is very pitted

Thanks in advance
Dino

Re: Dent in hull on trailer

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 5:30 pm
by Maraquita
I had similar dents on my V-25 for about ten years and it never hurt anything. I removed the anti-fouling and was never even able to find any cracks in the gel-coat. If it doesn't leak, I'd go with it. It probably will slow you down a scosh (official sailing term), but not as much as my poor sailing habits do!

Re: Dent in hull on trailer

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 7:29 pm
by sporgo
I wouldnt worry about it too much. The Mac hulls are thin and tend to oil can like that if the bunk is pushing on the wrong area. You can pop it out by gently applying pressure from the inside with a bottle jack and warming the hull.

Re: Dent in hull on trailer

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 9:13 pm
by hunkydory
Thanks for the replies. I feel much better now. Time to start on the keel stuff!

Re: Dent in hull on trailer

Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 5:02 am
by Tomfoolery
Those bunks are badly sagged, and possibly split.

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They're not supporting the hull along their length, so only the hard spots at the bunk supports are bearing the hull weight, which is why it's oil-canning. When you launch the boat, I'm sure you'll see the bunks with a large, permanent bend in them.

Going forward, I would replace those bunks and make any repairs to the support steel that may be needed. A straight bunk board will bend with the hull resting on it, which means the load is being distributed along its length instead of just bearing on the ends where the supports are. That should stop future oil-canning problems.

Bunks are usually just pressure treated framing lumber with bunk carpet stapled to them (SS staples), held on by SS wood screws from the bottom, or galvanized carriage bolts put in from the top before the carpet is stapled on. It's a very easy job.