daggerboard 26m

[aviro]

hi i destroy my daggerboard .
to expensive in Canada
i am going to make one by myselph
what is the lenth of the daggerboard
thanks

[kurz]

mesure your boat. The daggerobard goes from top of the boat till the bottom. Easy to get it.

Good luck!

[aviro]

ok
thanks
my problem …. the boat is 100 miles away

[kurz]

ok will mesure this weekend.

Are you sure making one on your own is cheaper than getting one from BWY?

[Tomfoolery]

$550 USD plus shipping.

http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5401-1m0.htm

Could probably make one for far less, but I don’t know how good it would come out. Is it a foil? I would imagine it is, though probably constant section across its length, at least the part in the water.

[aviro]

thanks to everybudy
cost terible amount for shiping to Canada plus the dolar exchange
i find one $1109.00 can+ 15% tax. +shiping
ihave to make one myself lots of work but i am confident to make someting good for $ 250.00 or less
the big problem is to make the mold
i will tell you how it goes
as soon as i have the lenth i start the work
good day

J F

[Jimmyt]

70 inches - best I can tell. Not easy to measure in place at 1030pm on a holiday.



It's foilish Tom. Haven't measured it to see what sort of foil.

Got a ding to fix.

[Tomfoolery]

It's foilish Tom. Haven't measured it to see what sort of foil.

Yeah, I guess it can't be a 'real' foil like a wing, as it has to provide lift equally well in both directions.

I wonder what kind of wing sections stunt planes use so they can fly upside-down?

[Jimmyt]

Tom,
You had to bring that foil thing up. Been bugging me ever since. Checked a few spots. Looks like a NACA 12 or close. That makes sense, as the rudders are pretty close to NACA 12.



Stations start at the leading edge.

[aviro]

thanks a lot
i' m going to start my mold and hope for the best
i going to post picks
see you
JF

[kurz]

well looking forward to see your photos!

Don't make the new one too strong. Better the DB breaks than the trunk.

Best would be to get DB from an other owner to make the mold...

[Rumdirty]

Been about a month and was wondering if you made any progress?

[Wayne nicol]

another option would not to make a male plug and then a female mold.
i might shape the profile in pu foam ( surfoard foam) then glass over itwith epoxy and woven cloth, final filler coat, and then waxed gelcoat spray on.
would be the cheapest, unless you can borrow another board from someone, and make a mold- then make the part.
never looked at mine- but i would imagine they are made in two halves and joined together- you may just only need one half of the mold- if its symmetrical.
with the foam you will need to add weight to counter the flotation of the foam.
i am not sure if the new board is like the rudders and has holes in them to allow water ingress, and allow it to sink.

advantage of the foam core , is that you can wrap glass around both the leading and trailing edges, making it more durable.
using polyester resin will keep the costs down , and may add in a "breakaway" factor as mentioned above

[Ixneigh]

I would use plywood plug, and plenty of glass. Just use regular polyester resin. I would put at least 3/8 inch of glass over everything with more in the bottom. A lot more. Where it hits the bottom of the ocean. It will be heavy enough to sink down easily. I bought a spare board when I bought my boat and the dealer shipped it free on another boat he sold locally. I’ve whacked mine a couple times pretty hard but on sand.

Ixnay

[Highlander]

Just remember the D/B slot is tapered wider at the top & narrower at the bottom as I discovered when I re-enforced my D/B & had to redo it as it would only go half way down LOL

J