Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

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March
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by March »

I used an OEM wheel puller. Anything else was too large and had to bend the plastic cover which goes on top of the hub on the wheel. I guess it would have worked in a pinch, but the small OEM has narrower "claws" that fit perfectly
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Neo »

Starscream wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 2:20 pmI'm a little worried about where the pedestal bracket will go: I've got "stuff" on the pedestal including a 12V outlet, horn button, and the tach.
I have seen the motor going into (through) a bottom right-hand hole in the console box and I have also seen the motor underneath the console (right side again) ... But I'm not sure how (or why) they are mounted in these different positions ... Good luck.
All the best.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Thanks for the replies and advice, guys, on both active threads for the EV100.

Current plan, if I can't get the raymarine part to mount on the pedestal is to buy an M12 stainless threaded rod and lock-nuts, and drill a hole through the pedestal to mount the rod with two locknuts. I'd like to avoid having to bend the rod though...how does one even go about bending a 12mm stainless threaded rod? Is there an app for that?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078MG ... B17D&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07118 ... 0SVD&psc=1

I was thinking about an externally mounted HDPE wedge to even things up for the raymarine part, but I think the rod idea might look a bit cleaner when all is said and done.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Correction, gonna be an M14, 100mm stainless bolt from Mcmaster, with a stainless nylock nut and stainless washer. Cheaper and faster than Amazon, oddly.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Dguy »

Hope to see more pictures of your ev100 install since We will be installing one as well on our 26X in the next 2 months.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Step by step...

The gear puller set arrived. The correct size is 4"
Image
I put a quarter on the steering shaft to protect it from the sharp puller, but it wasn't necessary. A light force on the ratchet broke the wheel loose. Here is what holds the wheel in place: a bunch of rust on the shaft, and a tapered "key" that slots into a groove on the wheel. The central nut pushes the wheel so that the key seats itself in the groove.
Image
I pity you salt-water sailors: this much rust in exclusively fresh water is bad enough. I removed as much rust as possible and lubed up the wheel shaft.

The next problem is where to put the rod that holds the motor-ring and prevents it from turning. There are limited spaces to put the rod, and the one(s) that Raymarine supplied don't work. The one with the package is curved for a pole-mount, and the flat-mount kit that I purchased is less than 3" long and there's no way it's gonna reach. C'mon Raymarine, if the part that comes with the package is 6" long, sell a 6" flat-mount part. Jeez. Well, it wouldn't have worked anyway because the tach is right there: the only solution is a bolt from inside the steering pedestal.

I located a good position for the mount. The only option for me is to have the motor on the left of the wheel; otherwise it interferes with the throttle. The M14 bolt and nuts are arriving tomorrow. So far it looks like the slots in the donut are exactly 14mm wide: the M12 bolt was too loose.

Image

You can't see the slot in the back of the donut because the wheel is rotated a bit left. A small turn to the right will bring the autopilot motor up higher and one of the slots will be positioned right where the tape measure is. I'll drill a 5/8" hole right there and pass the M14x100mm threaded bolt through from the inside. I don't want to cut the 4" SS bolt so I'll try to position it with an extra nut and/or washers just under the head to get the right length. It's supposed to pass 10mm inside the slot in the donut.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

C'mon Raymarine....seriously? Pole mount part on the left comes with the package, $30 buys you a less-than-3" flat-mount part. Kinda silly.

Image

This step was easy:
Image

The donut is pretty close to the wheel, but I'm not sure if I'll add the shims yet. Seems easy to do later on if I don't like it.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Jimmyt »

Starscream wrote: Wed Feb 10, 2021 11:09 am
I pity you salt-water sailors: this much rust in exclusively fresh water is bad enough. I removed as much rust as possible and lubed up the wheel shaft.
Yup. I tried pulling mine about a year ago -someone wanted info on the steering shaft hardware. Put a puller on it and gave up when it started deforming the steering wheel hub... PO used it in brackish/salt water, and stored it on the hard 50 feet from a brackish bay... I had to cut the prop hub off the prop shaft the first time I pulled the prop. Corrosion is a real challenge.

Thanks for posting your install!
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Planning out the electronics install. I've never done a marine network so it took some thinking to understand.

The EV100 uses SeatalkNG over a "backbone" set of wires. It's not a perfect system IMO. The backbone has to be powered, and the actuator control unit has to be powered separately. So, two power connections to do.

The kit came with an extra white "spur" wire and and extra T connector. Don't know why, but I hate when parts are left over.

Image

Here is the mock-up.

The black wire in the upper left goes to the wheel itself. Oddly it came with two spade connectors, but the actuator control unit has those little green cable connectors, so I'll have to cut the spades off and strip the wire. Doesn't make a lot of sense to have to do that when buying a kit, but so it is. Looks like that's the only cable that needs to go into the pedestal unless I mount the p70s control head there too. Extra parts on the bottom right. Weird. Oh, and yes, I took the terminator out of the extra "T" and put it where it belongs in the Seatalk 5-way connector. The backbone has to be terminated with those little blue end-pieces on both sides.

The red/black wire is the SeatalkNG power-in cable. I've ordered some 10 gauge marine wire to bring a separate power connection to the actuator control unit, so that wire isn't shown here.

The flux capacitor is over on the left...I mean flux gate compass. Has to be mounted within 5 degrees of level. Yeah right. Impossible to get that right.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

The M14x100 bolt fits like it was pre-engineered for the 26X pedestal and the Wheel Pilot. With two lock-washers inside the pedestal, it serves the purpose perfectly.

The motor ends up on the port side, and the clutch handle, when disengaged, protrudes into the valuable space in the aisle between the pedestal and the seats. I think it's gonna take a beating there, but there really isn't any other way to arrange it because of where my tach and throttle are.
Image
The mount is now permanent, wheel is bolted back on.

I'm thinking of mounting the control head where the compass is/was, and going to a handheld emergency backup compass only. The compas cutout hole is a bit too big so it leaves exposed screw-holes and a narrow slit on one side. I'll probably have to add an HDPE mounting/cover plate.
Image

I would have run the motor wiring today, but the duct-seal putty sealing the pedestal wiring run, that is normally like soft clay, is rock hard on this balmy -10C day.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Neo »

Jimmyt wrote: Wed Feb 10, 2021 12:06 pm Yup. I tried pulling mine about a year ago -someone wanted info on the steering shaft hardware. Put a puller on it and gave up when it started deforming the steering wheel hub.
I always put an anti-seize grease on that Taper and Key before I put it back together ... works for me :)
All the best.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

It's hard to work at -18C, after climbing over snowbanks and slipping in under the tarp into pitch blackness.

I spent a bit of time thinking about positioning the Fluxgate compass and the ACU. I prefer not to have exposed wiring and components, but man, there just isn't a lot of good real-estate on a Mac to put things, and then wire them.

Fluxgate goes here, I guess. There isn't a lot of activity in this area: it's above my head where I sleep and is more-or-less dead space. Wires will turn 90 degrees into the bilge behind the head sink. I played around with mounting it on the ceiling but with all the styrofoam in there, and no access, this was a lot easier.

Image

The Actuator Control Unit is mounted under the head sink. That area is usually used for storing cleaning fluids and paper towel rolls, so not a lot of action either.
Image

Now all the components are as close as can be. The Seatalkng backbone connectors will go with the ACU in the head bilge. Wiring is going to be the challenge, as always. I hope the motor-ACU wire is long enough to follow the motor wires down through the pedestal and into the bilge at the very aft of the boat, then through the bilge up to the ACU. That way almost nothing will be visible. But I'll bet that it'll be a couple of feet short and it will have to take an alternate, more visible, route.

I am leaning towards adding a second fuse panel (well actually, re-using the original 4-breaker fuse panel that I took out and replaced with a 6-breaker panel long ago). There is no room for it on the port side, so I'll put a 30amp breaker at the battery selector and run 10 gauge wire around the bilges into the head. I think the breaker panel will go on the head wall above the aft dinette seat. I'll have to pretty it up inside the head, maybe with some cable concealers.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by March »

On my 26X, I have a step rather than a ladder leading to the cockpit. I mounted my fluxgate compass right under the step. It's right along the median axis, covered safely with the step cover, away from any metallic connectors (the plug to the airvent don't count). But my compass is smaller and has a different shape for a smartpilot X-5
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Image

Mounted the Seatalkng 5-way connector using some leftover HDPE from the V-berth extension and one of the existing bolts holding the head wall together. Now that I see the photo, there is another bolt higher up above the ACU, which will put the wires in a safer spot, so I'll probably move it up there. Couldn't see that bolt from my working position hunched over the toilet. I need to run two power connections to this location, one for the ACU and one for the Seatalkng backbone.

Image

I used the long blue backbone wire to connect the control head to the 5-way connector in the first photo, and a white spur wire to connect the sensor core (I've incorrectly been referring to it as a fluxgate compass). The blue wire that comes down from the cockpit-mounted P70s controller is essentially invisible from inside the head: there was enough space between the hull and the liner to fish it down and around the liner panel.

I added a piece of 1/4" HDPE to mount the P70S in the too-large hole leftover from the compass. Also bought a small Ritchie compass to mount at the helm: it's a bit of a toy compared to the real marine compass it's replacing, but TBH I have never really needed a compass. Lake/river sailor, remember.
Image

A quick measurement estimate shows that the motor power wire coming down from the pedestal is about 1' too short to follow the steering-cable run to the aft of the boat, then down into the bilge up to the ACU in the head compartment. Of course. Couldn't be any other way. Oh well, the wire will have to be more visible than I want it, but again, it's in the aft berth so it's only me that will see it. And it's only me that that type of thing bothers. dammit.

Now I'm gathering the wiring
10-2 gauge marine tinned wire
Two ring connectors for battery selector
30 Amp waterproof breaker
Two ring connectors for breaker
Re-use old 4-channel fuse panel, probably mounted above the dinette seat with the back of the panel accessible from the head
10 amp fuse ACU circuit
5 amp fuse for Seatalkng circuit (using separate circuits so I can turn on the P70 and see data on it without having the autopilot motor engaged)
Spade connectors for fuse panel
A stainless steel nut and bolt to be used for positive bus bar (a page out of Macgregor's book), and a bunch of ring connectors.

I won't get this whole thing working until I can unfreeze the duct-seal between the pedestal and the aft berth.
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Re: Raymarine EV-100 Wheel Pilot -Mac26X

Post by Starscream »

Here's how I have it wired.

Everything was included in the Raymarine package except, of course, the main fuse panel, ACU power wire, and positive-bus-bolt.

With the Seatalkng system you can use the long blue wire to connect the two farthest-away components for your install, then everything else needs to be within a couple of feet of the 5-way connector.

That's a 10amp and a 5 amp fuse. The whole fuse panel is protected upstream by a 30A breaker.

Image

Black lines are the white/black spur cables. Blue line is the blue/black backbone cable. Red/Yellow lines are power cables (I show two lines, but of course they're one cable with two conductors). The black/red power cable from the 5-way connector is supplied with a Seatalk spur connection and one side, and two bare wires on the other, but the power cable from the fuse panel to the ACU is not supplied by Raymarine.

I ended up with one spur cable and one T-connector extra.
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