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Yep, while preparing for a two week family boating vacation, I turned the wheel a bit while at the ramp but before uncleating the boat. The wheel came off in my hands.



Back at home, more issues arose. Details to follow. Delayed maintenance can bite you. I was lucky to catch it before catastrophe. (Not being overly religious, I have to accept that someone upstairs was gentle with me in the obvious clue I received to get my 'sheets' in order.)

What failed on the wheel?

What should we be inspecting on ours?

Russ,
As the picture shows, my helm mounted Pretech T71FC control head has a tapered "universal wheel" 3/4 inch long metal piece that is tapered with woodruff key (not shown as it is on other side.) It was originally 12/16" to 11/16 tapered with an additional 3/4 inch threaded end to which the wheel is placed with washer and nut. Only a 1/4 inch piece is left where it snapped off. When I took off the bezel that hides the bracket on the steering pedestal, over 1/4 cup of rust came flowing onto the deck. 22 years of corrosion finally did it. I am pricing up a replacement now. Not too bad. About $80 for the head if I can re-use the cable. $146 if I need both head and cable. Several sources. So, Russ, I would recommend everyone take off the bezel and check under it. If the wheel needs to come off, the nut needs to come off first. I don't know if you can get the bezel out far enough to look under it with the wheel remaining. Luckily, my rusty nut came off with just a little oil and a good socket turn.



And this is what it started out as in 1999.



So, you can see that rust process was severe.

Well, I was about to blame UflexUSA, the mfg of T71FC helm box for the rust that destroyed my steering box shaft. But close examination and some web surfing shows that whoever installed the steering wheel on the shaft (Roger M. ?) used a mild steel or iron woodruff key under the wheel. Uflex didn't supply the key. If a bronze, s.s., or other rust resistant key had been installed, the shaft would still be pristine. Pics show the galvanic reaction between the key and the shaft caused the destruction.

Wow! Thanks for the update and explanation.

I actually did remove my wheel this Spring to install a wheel brake. It looked clean and I lubed it while it was off.

However, I'm SURE there are others with the same key as yours and should be inspected regularly.

Does the wheel need to be removed to inspect this, or can I see it by removing the plexiglass helm pedestal side cover? Or do I just remove the black center cover of the wheel?

SV,
Try just loosening the bezel under the wheel without removing the hub plastic cover with its set screw and the nut and wheel. Let us know if you can get a view of the shaft from under the loosened bezel. To loosen, there are two Phillips head screw bolts recessed into the bezel and you will have to go into the pedestal to grip the two nuts while addressing the two screw bolts. A bit of penetrating oil will help.
If not enough viewing space, you have to remove hub cap and then the nut and wheel and then the bezel. There is no shaft view possible from inside pedestal.
Opie

..how do u delete a post submitted by mistake like this one?

Found a YouTube video of another poor soul who blamed himself for the rusty distruction of his steering shaft. I think it is another case of a misapplied mild iron woodruff key that caused the damage.

He makes a mistake in this video bc he doesn't know the hub cap has a set screw. Also, a socket will take off the wheel nut bc the corrosion is toward the pedestal not toward the wheel nut as mine shows in previous post, therefore using a propane torch is not needed.

Thanks for the warning. I'll be checking mine as well.

You be a LUCKY BUGGER!
Just think for much “fun” you could’ve had with 30 knot winds and a quartering following sea coming into an out going tide!
Ya just missed the adventure of a lifetime!

No, seriously, Glad you are ok and everyone is safe!

Pardon me….. DARN IT !!!FRIBBLE!!! and THANK YOU OPIE!!!

Now knowing that there have been multiple incidents of these ferrous (iron) keys having been provided with the steering wheels
We’re gonna EXAMINE & POSSIBLY HAVE TO pull our 20 year old steering system apart to see if this affects us BEFORE we end up in the same situation that Opie found themselves in.

THANK YOU OPIE!
Regardless of whether we have this condition or not, we owe you a beverage (or two) for being considerate enough to have pointed this potential out to us!
THANK YOU for the HEADS-UP!

Best Regards,
Over Easy


PS:
This reminds me of a technique my Dad taught me as a kid if the tiller snaps.

While our Macs have a steering helm the principle still applies.

The first is to take something like a boat hook pole and strap it to the side of one of the two rudders to make a make-shift tiller.
This works as I’ve tried it with and without the engine operational.
Just be gentle and not force it too much.

Something else is the standard drogue sea anchor steering method for when you might not only have lost steering but have lost rudders as well.

The technique requires a sea anchor and two lines
Needed:
1) sea anchor
2) 2 lines about 20 to 40 ft long each (adjust length depending on wind & sea & desired turn radius)
3) 2 stern end or midship cleats..

Tie one end of each line to the open end ring of the sea anchor.
Tie each of the other line ends the aft or midship cleats. One to port and one to starboard.
With the lines able to trail aft with out obstructions toss the sea anchor aft over the stern.
The lines will form a “V” behind the boat from the port side cleat to the sea anchor to the starboard cleat.
Pulling in on one of the lines to shorten it pulls the sea anchor to that side corner and by water drag turns the boat.
The more one pulls it in toward the one side corner of the boat the sharper the turn.

People have used both techniques to sail oceans.
"
HOPE THIS HELPS!
Over Easy

Overeasy,

That is a very interesting drogue steering method.

Today, I wanted to give an interim update on my rusted wheel steering.
I searched the web and was patient and found a replacement on Amazon for $44.93 with free shipping (I am not a Prime member.)
Knowing that some others may have this brand, I took my old T71FC steering head to the workbench and dismantled it just to see the condition of this 22 year old part. I am not the original owner but I think that all older Mac 26x had these installed at the helm. (?)
The imprint on the T71FC indicates it was made in Italy. Easy to take apart. Inside there was still clean grease and the three planetary gears were pristine. The disconnected Uflex steering cable was without any rust or obvious wear so I am reinstalling it.

So I wanted to pass that info to other owners. It was just the T71shaft that was rusty.

Thanks for the update on the condition of the innards Opie!
That’s really good of you to do!

That is actually rather comforting to know as ours is probably original which means it’s 20 yrs old now.

As Over Easy is in the yard right now getting new bottom paint, rub rail and polish we can’t get to inspecting our own steering interface at the moment(boat is up too high on cribbing).

I have added a large Heavy Duty Vise Grip Pliers to the boat tool kit though as a backstop in case there is an issue and we don’t have opportunity to change it out ( if we have this corrosion problem). There should be enough shaft protruding to clamp on in a crisis.

Again, We really appreciate your bringing this to our attention!

Best Regards,
Over Easy

OverEasy wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 10:49 am

Now knowing that there have been multiple incidents of these ferrous (iron) keys having been provided with the steering wheels
We’re gonna EXAMINE & POSSIBLY HAVE TO pull our 20 year old steering system apart to see if this affects us BEFORE we end up in the same situation that Opie found themselves in.

FYI... the steering unit on Over Easy when you bought her is not the original from twenty years ago. I had replaced the original rack and pinion steering unit with a new rotary system about five years ago. FWIW, the original R&P system that I removed had failed in the rack teeth and did not have any corrosion or failure characteristics that are displayed in this thread.

Of course, it's always good practice to periodically check control systems for issues such as this.